Just pretend you never even saw it 🙂
The charge (Q, measured in Coulombs) on a capacitor is given by the formula:
Q=CV where C is the capacitance and V is the voltage. That means the actual voltage, not the voltage printed on the capacitor.
A 50 or 63 volt cap is fine to use in place of a 16 volt part.
IMHO......
Electrolytic caps degrade with time (whether used or not). The performance of modern parts significantly exceed older parts (compare the specs of a modern high spec cap with a 5yo audio spec cap, if the data is available for the audio spec part!). In the grand scheme of things caps are not that expensive - usually the chassis, transformers etc. are much more costly, but your time is probably the most valuable element in most DIY build/restore projects. Generally, caps described as 'audio grade' offer no benefits - I fear this approach only enables manufacturers to sell at a higher price point without delivering or publishing high quality specs. For all of these reasons I'd never risk compromising a project by using old electrolytics. Each to their own of course 🙂
Electrolytic caps degrade with time (whether used or not). The performance of modern parts significantly exceed older parts (compare the specs of a modern high spec cap with a 5yo audio spec cap, if the data is available for the audio spec part!). In the grand scheme of things caps are not that expensive - usually the chassis, transformers etc. are much more costly, but your time is probably the most valuable element in most DIY build/restore projects. Generally, caps described as 'audio grade' offer no benefits - I fear this approach only enables manufacturers to sell at a higher price point without delivering or publishing high quality specs. For all of these reasons I'd never risk compromising a project by using old electrolytics. Each to their own of course 🙂
I bought panasonic general purpose from digikey.
So recaped everything it works.
But the initial problem is still there.
If amp is left unplugged or turned off for at least 15 min then when I turn it on there is a moderate click or pop.
This only happens when speaker set A is used. Also while waiting for relay to click you can hear very low volume music. And then after relay clicks it's normal sound.
Also when speskers are in A. When I switch front knob to select speakers B. Speakers in A are still playing. They should turn off.
Basically speakers A play all the time. Regardless of speaker selector position.
When speakers are in speakers B. Everything is normal. No low volume music before repay clicks. When u switch to A speakers B turn off like u would expect
So recaped everything it works.
But the initial problem is still there.
If amp is left unplugged or turned off for at least 15 min then when I turn it on there is a moderate click or pop.
This only happens when speaker set A is used. Also while waiting for relay to click you can hear very low volume music. And then after relay clicks it's normal sound.
Also when speskers are in A. When I switch front knob to select speakers B. Speakers in A are still playing. They should turn off.
Basically speakers A play all the time. Regardless of speaker selector position.
When speakers are in speakers B. Everything is normal. No low volume music before repay clicks. When u switch to A speakers B turn off like u would expect
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Sounds odd at face value. We would have to see the circuit and how the relays are configured but it sounds unusual. Speaker relays usually place a direct disconnect in the speaker feed.
Any chance it could have been worked on previously and had a man made fault put on it ?
Any chance it could have been worked on previously and had a man made fault put on it ?
sounds like leakage, clean the speaker selector switches well with de-oxit....
switch contacts that are unused or seldom used can tarnish with time...
switch contacts that are unused or seldom used can tarnish with time...
I cleaned speaker selectors. They are twist type selectors.. also speakers A are on even before DC relay clicks.. I tend to think it's man made . Ebay purchase..I may be wrong of course.
I'll work on getting circuits.
It seems like it's a power amp section problem.
I tried testing speaker selector connection. Looks like relay works. When it's off there are no connections between pins.
So relay looks like this. I did connection test using multimeter connection test "beep" option.
. . .
. . .
Last 2 vertical dots is DC feed To actuate.
First 2 vertical dots are speakers B I guess. These two are connected when b or a+b are selected.
The middle vertical pair is speaker A I think. It's always on. As soon as u hit power relay connects speakers A. And when u turn off the amp connection is still there for 2-3 seconds or till capacitors discharge.
Speakers b pins actually wait till relay in power supply section clicks.. and then u get a connection between speaker B pins.
Just quick picks of speaker relay with screw driver showing the pins.
I'll work on getting circuits.
It seems like it's a power amp section problem.
I tried testing speaker selector connection. Looks like relay works. When it's off there are no connections between pins.
So relay looks like this. I did connection test using multimeter connection test "beep" option.
. . .
. . .
Last 2 vertical dots is DC feed To actuate.
First 2 vertical dots are speakers B I guess. These two are connected when b or a+b are selected.
The middle vertical pair is speaker A I think. It's always on. As soon as u hit power relay connects speakers A. And when u turn off the amp connection is still there for 2-3 seconds or till capacitors discharge.
Speakers b pins actually wait till relay in power supply section clicks.. and then u get a connection between speaker B pins.
Just quick picks of speaker relay with screw driver showing the pins.
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By the way. Remote for RE-1 nakamichi works on ta-3a, ta-4a no problem. Re1 remote is cheaper and newer looking) can be bought brand new old stock from taiwan for 44-50$.
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