That no one really knows how it does what it does is immaterial to the fact that it does work.
The commercial speakers that i have done have been improved, but i have not done anything pricey yet.
dave
Hi,
When I say commercial speakers, I don't mean
commercial drivers, like the ones P10 sells.
Modding drivers should be more scientific than
a load of nonsense that obscures the real options.
EnABL in its various guises is stumbling in the dark.
rgds, sreten.
When I say commercial speakers, I don't mean
commercial drivers, like the ones P10 sells.
Modding drivers should be more scientific than
a load of nonsense that obscures the real options.
EnABL in its various guises is stumbling in the dark.
rgds, sreten.
Hi,
Feel free to, but you will get nowhere fast in
understanding anything of what you doing.
And largely have no idea of best driver mods.
rgds, sreten.
I hope the thread isn't totally spoiled now, and that I can ask a pre-derail question: What is "DC" in this context?
It's clearly not Direct Current, but that's the only thing I could think it stands for. Reading the context, it seems to be a synonym for coaxial speaker (Driver Coaxial???), but I've never heard DC in relation to speakers other than "something you really don't want going through a voice coil."
Yes, I knew what BSC is. Maybe it's that I'm in the US and it's some terminology that's rarely used here.
It's clearly not Direct Current, but that's the only thing I could think it stands for. Reading the context, it seems to be a synonym for coaxial speaker (Driver Coaxial???), but I've never heard DC in relation to speakers other than "something you really don't want going through a voice coil."
Yes, I knew what BSC is. Maybe it's that I'm in the US and it's some terminology that's rarely used here.
care to enlighten us ( perhaps you've already done so,) as to the " best" , or at least top 5 sreten approved driver mods?
Hi and thanks a lot indeed for your kind and helpful advice
Yours are clearly on a superior level.
I know that paper cones are the best in the Tannoy catalogue.
Actually i do not understand why the coaxial drivers are not more popular.
Also the last Kef's coaxials have been extremely well reviewed.
I am obsessed by the rendering of a good virtual soundstage effect, even if it is the product of some kind of signal processing.
I think that i will stick with the simpler 609 and made some mods at the cabinet. Anyway i will have a look also to the x-over parts and see the quality of them. Changing an electrolytic with a film cap can do wonders. 😉
Thanks again. Best regards, gino 😀
Sorry man - I must admit I find all these abbreviations a bit annoying sometimes, and yet there I am, part of the problem back up there... 🙄
Note to self: Don't read diyAudio when you're short on time. 🙂
-- Jim
Hi,
You can find pages regarding driver mods that include measurements.
None of them suggest a generic cure all can be blindly applied,
and they all imply measurements are an absolute necessity.
Not that you can't experiment with cheap drivers subjectively,
but any decent mod needs an objective approach to the problem.
rgds, sreten.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/166518-its-not-easy-being-green-apologies-kermit.html
But they do look nice, a willow pattern would be my choice if offered.
I'm rather puzzled about the spots painted on the wooden phase plug in post #9 in the above thread?
Hi to Everyone !
just to say that i also see quite critical to mod a driver
I would limit myself to parts replacement in the x-over (for instance good film caps are always better than electrolytic and longer lasting too) and some mods to the cabinet.
Also better quality binding posts can be beneficial (better contact)
i love when i see a nice plate with nice binding posts ...
Very nice.
I have found also a nice picture of the Tannoy 611 DC open (i would not dare to do this on mine)
Regards, gino
just to say that i also see quite critical to mod a driver
I would limit myself to parts replacement in the x-over (for instance good film caps are always better than electrolytic and longer lasting too) and some mods to the cabinet.
Also better quality binding posts can be beneficial (better contact)
i love when i see a nice plate with nice binding posts ...
Very nice.
I have found also a nice picture of the Tannoy 611 DC open (i would not dare to do this on mine)
Regards, gino
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Looking nice is only a nice side effect. The patterns are fixed, and the driver itself tells you were the rings go.
dave
I'll ask again, how on earth can a bunch of dots painted on the wooden "phase plug" effect the sound? and would I be correct in assuming that you are the only guy that knows exactly where to put all the dots?
Is planet10 within the Twilight Zone?😉
No one knows why it works. And the spots on the fixed surfaces are more controversial. Where to put the spots is well documented. The only thing i can claim is much experience applying the spots.
dave
dave
The interface of the cone material and surround material can be problematic it seems to me - an "impedance mismatch" of sorts ... I note that a driver of ancient vintage that has a surround which is a continuation of the cone - one, whole piece of material - when measured has remarkably smooth FR and distortion traces, quite superior to the modern, fab drivers, 😉.
So the thought is, that this "mismatch" of materials is alleviated to some degree by the patterning thing ...
So the thought is, that this "mismatch" of materials is alleviated to some degree by the patterning thing ...
On some drivers we specifically damp the cone to surround interface (on the back of the cone)
dave
Well, the inventor / patent holder (Bud Purvine) frequently discussed the methods for indentifying the location and patterns of rings early in the conversation, before it devolved into rancorous technical debate.
Yes, the "how" is still an interesting thought experiment.
No, Planet10 still resides this side of any alternate universe divide
Most days, anyway
I think that 611 is a 2,5-way, not 3-way design, in which bass helps mid-bass as they work in parallel up to 400Hz and then the bass is cut off. The 2,5-way design may appear as more complex load to the amplifier than 3-way, so this should also be taken into account in your setup.
On your first photo, the loudspeakers are on the floor. I don't know if it is just for photography, but they should be placed on stands or decoupled from the floor with spikes.
On your first photo, the loudspeakers are on the floor. I don't know if it is just for photography, but they should be placed on stands or decoupled from the floor with spikes.
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