Are there any benefits to running higher resistance, over lower?
my computer says
As Crystallize, channeling SS’s engineering precision: At 11:30 AM EDT, June 15, 2025, for two 8-ohm woofers at 1W:
my computer says
As Crystallize, channeling SS’s engineering precision: At 11:30 AM EDT, June 15, 2025, for two 8-ohm woofers at 1W:
- Voice Coil: Series (16 ohms) hotter (~2V each, 0.5W), parallel (4 ohms) cooler (~0.71V, 0.25W).
- Amp: Series cooler (less current, 0.25A), parallel hotter (more current, 0.353A).
- Series (16 ohms): Lower damping, 0.25A reduces amp control, looser response.
- Parallel (4 ohms): Higher damping, 0.353A enhances control, tighter response.
- Series (16 ohms): Lower THD (~0.005-0.02%), less current strain.
- Parallel (4 ohms): Higher THD (~0.01-0.05%), more current stress.
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The computer; THD detectability varies with frequency; 0.02-0.05% JND applies more to midrange (1-3 kHz), less at bass (e.g., 30 Hz), where 0.1% may be needed, per AES studies.
No benefits in running higher resistance speaker wire other than cost, and fitting it into connectors easily.
Yes, twice the power creates more heat.
Yes, more current creates more heat.
Wrong.
Wrong.
Wrong, most amplifier distortion rises with output voltage, more voltage is required to produce the same power in to a higher impedance.
Again, damping factor becomes lower at lower impedance.
Higher damping factors increase speaker control, which reduces THD.
The amount of attenuation that electrical damping provides at the speaker is:
DF10=-20 dB, DF20=-26 dB, DF30=-30 dB, DF 40=-32.5, DF50=-33 dB.
The formula for calculating damping factor (DF):
DF=ZL / ZAMP + (RWx2)
Where:
ZL = The impedance of the loudspeaker(s)
ZAMP = The output impedance of the amplifier
RW = The resistance of the wire times 2 for the total loop resistance
With the low output resistance/high damping factors of most amps, the speaker wire resistance becomes the major reduction of the total damping factor.
As far as what impedance is the "best" load for a particular amplifier, consult the specifications or test the output yourself.
Art
You can build an amplifier to suit any load, then the point is moot. (Saying that is a point in itself 😉 )
computer says
For two 8-ohm woofers, SPL matched at 100 dB and 120 dB:
- 100 dB SPL (adjusted power):
- Voice Coil: Series (16 ohms) ~2V, 0.125W, 9-18°F; parallel (4 ohms) ~1V, 0.125W, 9-18°F.
- Amp: Series ~0.25A, 2-5°F; parallel ~0.25A, 5-10°F
- Damping: Series weaker, looser; parallel stronger, tighter.
- THD: Series ~0.005-0.02%; parallel ~0.01-0.05%.
- 120 dB SPL (~100W):
- Voice Coil: Series ~40V, 200W, 250-300°F; parallel ~20V, 100W, 200-250°F.
- Amp: Series ~2.5A, 20-50°F; parallel ~5A, 50-100°F.
- Damping: Series weaker, looser; parallel stronger, tighter.
- THD: Series ~0.005-0.02%; parallel ~0.01-0.05%.
- 100 dB:
- Series (16 ohms): ~0.125W/coil, minimal heat, no power compression.
- Parallel (4 ohms): ~0.125W/coil, minimal heat, no power compression.
- 120 dB (~100W):
- Series (16 ohms): ~200W/coil, 250-300°F, slight power compression (~5-10%) from resistance rise.
- Parallel (4 ohms): ~100W/coil, 200-250°F, less compression (~2-5%) due to lower voltage stress.
- Power Compression: Estimated as (1 - (output at temp / output at cold)) × 100%. Heat (250-300°F series, 200-250°F parallel) raises voice coil resistance (e.g., 0.1-0.3 ohms), reducing efficiency. Series ~5-10% from 200W/coil (250-300°F), parallel ~2-5% from 100W/coil (200-250°F), based on AES thermal models and impedance shift data.
The info in this post might be more on track.
Thanks for the info, it is really helpful! I was only speaking of parallel vs series not speaker wire resistance. You still answered the questions I would of had anyway... time to feel them into the electronical brain and see if it behaves....
Heres its response;
your DF formula (DF = ZL / (ZAMP + RW)) is theoretically sound, but its practical impact on damping favors low impedance. Here’s the math:
- DF Calculation: ZL = speaker impedance, ZAMP = amp output impedance (~0.04 ohms), RW = wire resistance (~0.02 ohms for 10 ft).
- Parallel (2 ohms): DF = 2 / (0.04 + 0.02) = 2 / 0.06 ≈ 33.
- Series (32 ohms): DF = 32 / (0.04 + 0.02) = 32 / 0.06 ≈ 533.
- Damping Force: Damping is proportional to current (I = V / ZL), which counters back-EMF. At 120 dB (~89W), parallel (2 ohms) draws 6.3A (12.6V / 2), series (32 ohms) 1.67A (53.5V / 32). Higher current in parallel increases damping force.
- Effective Damping: DF alone doesn’t reflect amp control; damping ratio (ζ) ≈ (ZAMP + RW) / (2 * √(Mms * Cms * ZL)) shows lower ZL reduces ζ, enhancing transient control. Parallel’s 2 ohms yields tighter response than series’ 32 ohms.
- AES Insight: Studies (e.g., AES E-Library) indicate practical damping peaks with low ZL, as high DF with high ZL (series) dilutes current effectiveness.
The formula is theoretical; real damping favors low impedance (parallel) for better grip, despite series’ higher DF, due to current dynamics.
I believe that depends on the plugin you order/use with the minidsp. I use the plugin with 96kHz internal clock if I am not mistaken.
miniDSP HD is REALLY the lowest converter level ... search for measurements. And when you feed it analog inputs at -20dBfs or even lower ...
But the newer (and way more expensive) miniDSP units seem to be pretty good.
It always fascinates me when people say "no, DSP doesn't sound good" and tried it with a $200,- unit at the heart of the HighEnd system ... (not you marco)
Get a proper chain (at LEAST a Hypex module and digital inputs used) and give it a try.
I'm mostly soldering my Speakons and never had a single issue! No idea what you make wrong here but they are sturdy when you buy Neutriks.
You can plug in a connector during soldering, it will take some of the heat away. Always heat the wire first and then add it to the pre tinned "pin". Takes 3-5 seconds max.
But I also really dislike the new Neutriks with their ugly colour scheme. Rental companies often have colour codes for different cable length and not the type of connector. And this ugly brown for 2 pins ...
But the metal one are GEORGEOUS - NTL4 FXX and MPXX. It makes fun to plug it in and out just for the satisfying sound.
from the specsheet of the actual series (FLex/SHD):
And even running in 48kHz sample rate because of DIRAC (what is here the limiting factor) is not an issue, as higher sample rates are only usefull in production, not in reproduction. The bitrate (here 32bit float) is way more important and is best 24bit or higher (altough 16bit is marginally worse).
And the actual series is dead silent and lower noise than your ears as tested by some. The first series were not (2x4 first generations and similar).
The "flavour" of your (good) converter will be overshadowed by the "flavour" of your turntable by probably 40dB. So the vinyl sound should dominate.
Speakon again cause I'm just building a speaker. I gave it a try:
I tortured it for at least 10 seconds at 430°C (!) - the solder melts in less than a second at that temperature. No Plug added to take some of the heat.
The plastic shows starting signs of heat - but everything is 100% stable and working.
Normally It would take maybe 2-3 seconds at high temperature to do the soldering - no problem at all.
But don't buy cheap copies, they are pretty bad! Especially the plugs make problems, as do most of the XLR copies.
The big round one of the picture is less than €4,-, the normal sized ones 2,30. When a great connection is not worth that much ...
I tortured it for at least 10 seconds at 430°C (!) - the solder melts in less than a second at that temperature. No Plug added to take some of the heat.
The plastic shows starting signs of heat - but everything is 100% stable and working.
Normally It would take maybe 2-3 seconds at high temperature to do the soldering - no problem at all.
But don't buy cheap copies, they are pretty bad! Especially the plugs make problems, as do most of the XLR copies.
The big round one of the picture is less than €4,-, the normal sized ones 2,30. When a great connection is not worth that much ...