I realize that I am leaving out putting woofers on the side... at first it seemed counterintuitive to my close listening position and the horizontal off axis but now that I think about it, when playing within 1/4wl that might not matter as much? It does seem that staying in line on the vertical axis is desirable, still, and personally I think the scenario of a driver on the front, bottom and rear is most desirable, I could low pass the bottom woofer a little higher given its closer proxImity...
All I know are the dayton passive low passes, I don't know if those are "good enough" or if the board has a recommendation of some other passive filters, but patiently waiting for input
All I know are the dayton passive low passes, I don't know if those are "good enough" or if the board has a recommendation of some other passive filters, but patiently waiting for input
I also forgot about the possibility of top and bottom baffle along with from baffle
Its all the same? Because of the 1/4wl coupling?
Its all the same? Because of the 1/4wl coupling?
Front baffle not from, sorry. I would think that each configuration would be slightly different acoustically, maybe I don't get the mickey mouse reference. Speaking on corner loaded cabinets, if a driver is in the rear of the cabinet placing it even closer to the literal corner, FR will better than elsewhere. Also the way sound reflects it might sound as if coming from above which is something @weltersys informed me of when I first talked about a rear driver crossing higher than I propose now.
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gedlee, GM, and most of the others that have patiently explained the pitfalls you have "designed in" to your system will get the reference:
Yes, speaker's response is different in different room placement...
You don't fix an inneffective (Micky Mouse) design by moving it around.
You continue writing about fixing the slot problem (which wouldn't be a problem if you used the 18" as subs and your front loaded sealed 15"s as mids) but have done nothing about it, continuing to beat the dead horse..
Congrats on painting the horns!
Art
Thats not lining up with what I just posted. You just said the slot wouldn't be an issue if I used them as subs... the only scenario that included slot loaded woofers (in above examples) is in fact, using the slot loaded woofers... as subs.
The majority scenarios that I asked for opinions on, have no slot at all. This is on par with using the 15" as the "mid". Using an 18" is actually better. The other 18"s talked about are not slot loaded and proposed to cross at frequencies that allowed 1/4wl coupling.
The front woofer would be the one crossing to the horn, not in a slot, and able to cover down to 20hz in unison with the other 2 18"s.... so essentially my question to you guys was where do you think the best place is, to put the other 18"s. I can fit 2 on any free baffle diagonally or 1 of 2 of 5 free baffles, ie top, bottom, left and right side, rear.
Using one normally mounted driver as mid
Check
Using remaining drivers as low frequency support
Check
Yet some how this is mickey mouse? @gedlee has proposed that I get rid of the slot numerous times and now that it looks like I'm ready to make the change, I'm asking where to put the remaining drivers in order to keep them on the same cabinet.
The majority scenarios that I asked for opinions on, have no slot at all. This is on par with using the 15" as the "mid". Using an 18" is actually better. The other 18"s talked about are not slot loaded and proposed to cross at frequencies that allowed 1/4wl coupling.
The front woofer would be the one crossing to the horn, not in a slot, and able to cover down to 20hz in unison with the other 2 18"s.... so essentially my question to you guys was where do you think the best place is, to put the other 18"s. I can fit 2 on any free baffle diagonally or 1 of 2 of 5 free baffles, ie top, bottom, left and right side, rear.
Using one normally mounted driver as mid
Check
Using remaining drivers as low frequency support
Check
Yet some how this is mickey mouse? @gedlee has proposed that I get rid of the slot numerous times and now that it looks like I'm ready to make the change, I'm asking where to put the remaining drivers in order to keep them on the same cabinet.
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I have a pair of profiles of audio ( best buy) that can hit 35 to 22k. New crossover required 88 dB/ w
I'm many moons away from the thread, so based solely on this I'd do diagonal, staggered directly below the 'mid'? 18
Because that speaker was mentioned more in this thread, has anyone heard the GedLee NS15? How well that heavy, relative high inductance subwoofer plays up to the middle of the midrange?
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Okay, also B&C not calls the NBX series as subwoofer.
Anyone have distortion measurements for the 15NBX100?
Anyone have distortion measurements for the 15NBX100?
Hi GM and thank you for replying. I am working with a box thats 26 X 32 on the front baffle, I want to place one 18" on this baffle... on any other baffle, I can take the remaining 2 woofers and fit 1 woofer per baffle or 2 diagonally on a single baffle. I'd like performance to be optimized towards being placed in/near a corner...
What would you do
@gedlee @weltersys @GM
@GM are you saying use the 2 woofers on floor facing baffle?
Soffit mount the speakers for what you determine is their optimal performance within your room dimensions.
I would want to minimize the center to center distance between the mid and high driver, so would choose to use your 15" cabinets for mids (rather than 18") and your dual slot loaded 18" for low frequency.
Your choice of a very deep high frequency horn choice will require a large soffit.
The soffits could be made free standing to allow for some degree of toe-in variation, and removable panels could allow for some mid/high height variation.
Art
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Well I've heard them and I haven't heard anything that I kike better. The issue is how well a large driver works at its upper end. Certainly few do a good job of this, but the B&C woofers (most) do. It's all about the cone and surround design that determines this aspect, not the cones weight or the VC inductance.
Hearing a pair of NS15 would be tough since only seven were ever made and I have three of those. This model was the very last that I built before I stopped doing it. However, there is a company in Germany that has plans to produce them in the next year.
I just don't follow along well enough to understand the issue. I'd still just use one 18 direct firing in a closed box for say 50-200 Hz and the rest of the 18 as multi subs.
Thanks! I thought you heard them since you are their creator. But I didn't think that so few were made. Of course you like them very much since you made them.
Besides polar map, do you have any other measurements of them (HD, IMD, etc.)?
I can tell you without even listening that this configuration has the potential to sound good in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing.
Sure. But why we don't see
Then many pages and comments in this thread and the solution is right here in front of the nose of those who want a loudspeaker with the features mentioned in the title?
For sure.
Then many pages and comments in this thread and the solution is right here in front of the nose of those who want a loudspeaker with the features mentioned in the title?
Greets!
You're welcome!
??? I assumed you had two vertical baffles inline, but if you mean down firing for a narrow BW mains-sub 'filler', then yeah, floor, corner load them if the 18s can be mounted face down, but Dan's comments indicates I'm still not seeing the 'big picture', so maybe moot.
Corner systems done right though is to do (fake) full height built in as I've done/recommended and not knowing any other details I'm going with what Dan or any other experienced prosound/recording studio designer(s) 'says'.