In my current home theater system I have (for each front 3 channels) one tweeter with a attenuating resistor in parallel with two identical 5" woofers.
Here is a schematic of my each front channel speakers:
It sounds good but I like to have more high end. I have 3 more of the same exact tweeters. So I was wondering if I could replace the resistors with another tweeter.
Here is a schematic of the new way:
Would this sound ok? If so, where should I position the tweeters in relation to the woofers?
Here is a schematic of my each front channel speakers:
It sounds good but I like to have more high end. I have 3 more of the same exact tweeters. So I was wondering if I could replace the resistors with another tweeter.
Here is a schematic of the new way:
Would this sound ok? If so, where should I position the tweeters in relation to the woofers?
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I presume the 4 ohm woofers are in series not parallel?
If you want the tweeter hotter why not switch it to a true 4 ohm design?
Switch the woofers to parallel and pull out the resistor entirely.
If you want the tweeter hotter why not switch it to a true 4 ohm design?
Switch the woofers to parallel and pull out the resistor entirely.
I bought a pro pair of speakers with 4 tweeters in each channel.
Its more a matter of getting a balanced sound.
Its more a matter of getting a balanced sound.
When you put two crossovers in series they effect each other so I do not recommend that each tweeter have its own crossover.
If you really want two tweeters than remove the resistor and redo the crossover for the new impedance of the drivers in series. IIRC it will net you 3db increase in the highs but could cause some phase anomalies.
If you want more highs without the phase issues than you could remove the 4 ohm resistor and redo the crossover for the lower impedance which will get you the same 3DB increase of the highs.
If you really want two tweeters than remove the resistor and redo the crossover for the new impedance of the drivers in series. IIRC it will net you 3db increase in the highs but could cause some phase anomalies.
If you want more highs without the phase issues than you could remove the 4 ohm resistor and redo the crossover for the lower impedance which will get you the same 3DB increase of the highs.
Why don't you just add a wire to short the 4Ω resistor on the one tweeter? 6dB treble boost and done. Too much? use a resistor instead of a wire to short the resistor.
Thanks for the replies.
The reason I put the resistor in there is so I wouldn't pull too much current from my receiver. On the receiver's back, it says a minimum of 8 ohm and my tweeters are 4 ohm so wouldn't that pull too much current without a resistor?
One thing I forget to include in my schematic is a .6 mH inductor in series with the woofers to block out the frequencies put out by the tweeter. I can't redo the tweeter's crossovers because they are sealed PCB boards.
I didn't know that about crossovers having a problem in series with each other. Good thing I checked here before I rewired everything! What about removing the inductors so the woofers would put out the higher frequencies?
The reason I put the resistor in there is so I wouldn't pull too much current from my receiver. On the receiver's back, it says a minimum of 8 ohm and my tweeters are 4 ohm so wouldn't that pull too much current without a resistor?
One thing I forget to include in my schematic is a .6 mH inductor in series with the woofers to block out the frequencies put out by the tweeter. I can't redo the tweeter's crossovers because they are sealed PCB boards.
I didn't know that about crossovers having a problem in series with each other. Good thing I checked here before I rewired everything! What about removing the inductors so the woofers would put out the higher frequencies?
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removing the inductors is a bad idea. Lots of reasons but mostly because the mid woofer will have break up nodes at the high end that will sound pretty awfull, removing the inductor will deteriorate the sound quality massively.
Are these commercial speakers or did you build them? the reason I ask is because you said you put the resistor in there, but then that you can't change the XO.
Can you give more details? what drivers are they, what's the actual crossover schematic?
I don't know everyone else's opinion but I'd have thought you could have got away with removing the resistor as dumptruck says even with the 8 ohm requirement, the power consumption of the tweeter compared to the mid and low frequencie is very small, but I'm sure there's an electronics guru on the forum who can answer that in more detail.
Are these commercial speakers or did you build them? the reason I ask is because you said you put the resistor in there, but then that you can't change the XO.
Can you give more details? what drivers are they, what's the actual crossover schematic?
I don't know everyone else's opinion but I'd have thought you could have got away with removing the resistor as dumptruck says even with the 8 ohm requirement, the power consumption of the tweeter compared to the mid and low frequencie is very small, but I'm sure there's an electronics guru on the forum who can answer that in more detail.
This shouldn't be a problem. The woofer section is still 8Ohm, and most of the power draw is in the woofer frequency range anyway. I wouldn't worry about the tweeter impedance mismatch. If anything, you need to be careful you don't fry the tweeter once you're using that much power that it would be a concern. Just bypass or remove the resistor before the tweeter, that will give you 6dB more high end, or use a smaller value for 0-6dB more high end, depending on the exact resistor value.
The speakers are from an Onkyo HT-S790 7.1 Home Theater system but I bought just the speakers used. The tweeters are Pyramid TW22M. When I first opened the enclosures for the Onkyo speakers, the woofers were wired in series with a tweeter in parallel with the woofers. They also had a capacitor before the tweeter. They did not come with the resistor or inductor. I disconnected the stock tweeters to use my Pyramid tweeters that I had bought earlier. I don't know the tweeter's XO schematic because they are sealed boards.
The receiver says it puts out 100 watts rms @ 8 ohm and tweeter's specs say they can handle 100 watts rms but they are 4 ohm. So if I take out the resistors, wouldn't I have to worry about frying the tweeters?
The receiver says it puts out 100 watts rms @ 8 ohm and tweeter's specs say they can handle 100 watts rms but they are 4 ohm. So if I take out the resistors, wouldn't I have to worry about frying the tweeters?
doubt you'd fry the resistors. Have you measured the woofers at all?
particularly for impedance i mean
particularly for impedance i mean
Did you mean "fry the tweeters"? I haven't measured the woofers but they are marked 4 ohm on their magnets.
Now that we've covered how to electrically integrate them how about some advise with physical configuration do's and don'ts. 😉
I took a picture of how my front speakers are setup:
I know the left and right speakers are too close to the center one but I don't have enough room to move them further apart.
I know the left and right speakers are too close to the center one but I don't have enough room to move them further apart.
How are you guy's getting 6db? If the 4 ohm resistor is removed the amp will see half the impedance or a doubling of the wattage which is 3db. Am I missing something?
Also, IIRC, the added resistor changed the cut off frequency of the tweeter effectively moving it up an octave.
Also, IIRC, the added resistor changed the cut off frequency of the tweeter effectively moving it up an octave.
So I removed the inductors and resistors and it does sound better. I kinda scared of cranking it, though. How can I tell if I am frying the tweeters?
The Pyramid tweeters have ferro fluid which, among other things, helps to transfer heat away from the voice coil. IME, such tweeters are hard to fry. The best thing to remember is that audible distortion is what tends to take out modern tweeters. So turn it down if you here the tweeter distorting.
Voltage.
The resistor was on the amp side of the crossover, so it should not have changed to response much.
If you can see it move it's too low and no amount of ferrofluid will save you. Additionally crossing too low causes a massive amount of distortion and may exceed the one octave above resonance rule (to keep it clean).
Thanks for the correction on the resistor.
However I still disgaree on the 6db. FWIU, You are refering to electronics in which you are dealing only in the voltage domain in which doubling the voltage results in 6db increase. In speakers we are in the power domain (current comes into play) and have doubled the wattage which is a 3db increase.
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