Those are oxidised aluminum.
Edit: Apparently not. They're Zirconium Oxide, which is a natural material. It is pretty brittle.
Cast ceramic (Accutons) is what your WC is made of. The process is not very different, but it is doped differently and the firing process is a bit different (not many details are public).
Edit: Apparently not. They're Zirconium Oxide, which is a natural material. It is pretty brittle.
Cast ceramic (Accutons) is what your WC is made of. The process is not very different, but it is doped differently and the firing process is a bit different (not many details are public).
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Thanks for all the comments and ideas!
> cone breakup after the crossover point; noticed that with the Anarchy woofers and ended up with 24db slope at 1,500 and POOF all the problems went away.
> humidity, oh MD has plenty late summer. I learned the hard way, for years I just kept windows open,,,, that can cause more house problem than anyone wants to deal with!
> The SBcac, one concern is the light suspension and the 11mm travel. I bet it does sound good though.
> Budget, yesterday received unexpected check from insurance claim from 7 years ago, wife and I drove that to the bank fast!
> Revelators, humm leaning in that direction.
> cone breakup after the crossover point; noticed that with the Anarchy woofers and ended up with 24db slope at 1,500 and POOF all the problems went away.
> humidity, oh MD has plenty late summer. I learned the hard way, for years I just kept windows open,,,, that can cause more house problem than anyone wants to deal with!
> The SBcac, one concern is the light suspension and the 11mm travel. I bet it does sound good though.
> Budget, yesterday received unexpected check from insurance claim from 7 years ago, wife and I drove that to the bank fast!
> Revelators, humm leaning in that direction.
pretty brittle and it's all it is about with the ceramic knife the edge doesn't bend so doesn't loose its cut, it chips, breaks instead. It is hard, not strong. a ceramic cup is handfull to find again an edge with a non too hard metal knife, reform the edge straight right....
I'm not sure if the sucess of Acuton is coming from the cone material or more than their good motor and cast frame design ?
I'm not sure if the sucess of Acuton is coming from the cone material or more than their good motor and cast frame design ?
Several of their motors 'are not without issues'.
Truth to tell, Accuton is like most other driver manufacturers. They have a number of good - very good products, but they have some less impressive offerings too, and in those latter cases, there are a number of units that will equal or outperform them, sometimes for rather less money. By and large, their cones and domes are very good. Ceramic, other than its known delicacy to mishandling / physical abuse, is a good material for MC drive unit diaphragms -very high rigidity, very low mass, in theory (in theory) should allow for a good piston BW and concentration of resonances nice & high up. How well that's achieved is a question of implementation -the 'best' ceramic dome tweeters I've seen are / were the TL labs ones. I wish a few more companies would produce them.
Truth to tell, Accuton is like most other driver manufacturers. They have a number of good - very good products, but they have some less impressive offerings too, and in those latter cases, there are a number of units that will equal or outperform them, sometimes for rather less money. By and large, their cones and domes are very good. Ceramic, other than its known delicacy to mishandling / physical abuse, is a good material for MC drive unit diaphragms -very high rigidity, very low mass, in theory (in theory) should allow for a good piston BW and concentration of resonances nice & high up. How well that's achieved is a question of implementation -the 'best' ceramic dome tweeters I've seen are / were the TL labs ones. I wish a few more companies would produce them.
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Could I make you elaborate on the difference of the 4 and 8 ohms?
I use an active system and can easily attenuate each driver - so I care only for sound quality in this matter
Ah. Yes, this is where I have to be a little careful what I say. My preference has nothing to do with output or sound quality per se -it's because when I tested a few, the 4ohm models had somewhat less sample variability than the 8ohm, and were also happier in more reasonably sized enclosures. This was after extensive break-in -far more than SB recommend- and I put extra effort into those units that appeared to need more when remeasured. Hence my preference for the 4ohm models, which are very nice units for the money indeed. YMMV as always of course.
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Haha - no problem - and thank you for answering
I just can't help, trying to make something better and strive for something awesome - if possible within reason. I mean - a lot of people still focus on passive designs and often rightfully focus on impedance, sensitivity and breakup-modes. But having an active system - gives me so much more leverage to fiddle with a broader array of drivers. So that's why my focus is a bit different. But thank you again
Oh, absolutely. It's all valid as far as I'm concerned -we all do what we do, the way we like to or best suits our needs. I think my findings will have as much relevance for active as it does passive, since I measured pretty consistent FR etc., although of course active does tend to make life somewhat easier in terms of adjustment etc. I generally like to start from a nice tight driver match, especially if they're used in multiples, as it's one less variable to consider (technically called 'bone-idleness' ), especially if the enclosure is some form of vented type.
), especially if the enclosure is some form of vented type.