Hello,
I just found this forum recently and it seems like a great place for me to continue learning. Just thought I'd say hello and post pics of my latest projects. I figured everyone enjoys pics 😉 If anyone frequents Home Theater Forum this may be redundant...sorry.
I've provided them as links to keep from upsetting dial up users.
My Tempest Adire Alignment vented 214L enclosure:
Back before finish
Front corner before finish
Foot detail before finish
First coat of Tung Oil
The business end
My GR-Research AV1+'s for my home theater:
Side
Front
Close up of corner
Angle view
So far so good...I've built 5 AV1+'s and a Tempest with great results. I couldn't be happier! Looking forward to learning more.
Thanks for viewing!
I just found this forum recently and it seems like a great place for me to continue learning. Just thought I'd say hello and post pics of my latest projects. I figured everyone enjoys pics 😉 If anyone frequents Home Theater Forum this may be redundant...sorry.
I've provided them as links to keep from upsetting dial up users.
My Tempest Adire Alignment vented 214L enclosure:
Back before finish
Front corner before finish
Foot detail before finish
First coat of Tung Oil
The business end
My GR-Research AV1+'s for my home theater:
Side
Front
Close up of corner
Angle view
So far so good...I've built 5 AV1+'s and a Tempest with great results. I couldn't be happier! Looking forward to learning more.
Thanks for viewing!
niiiiice!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi DArren,
Your woodworking skills are admirable, those speakers are real beauties. 😱
I build my stuff only for PA use (I'll build some bass- reflex enclosures for a pair of Eminence Kappa 15), it has to make noize and be rugged to resist abuse on the road. But it sure doesn't look as nice as your boxes do.
Great job!
Hi DArren,
Your woodworking skills are admirable, those speakers are real beauties. 😱
I build my stuff only for PA use (I'll build some bass- reflex enclosures for a pair of Eminence Kappa 15), it has to make noize and be rugged to resist abuse on the road. But it sure doesn't look as nice as your boxes do.
Great job!
Did you make those cabinets yourself? If so they look excellent, but even so if you just put them together, you did a good job, especially with the finish.
What kind of drivers are those?
What kind of drivers are those?
http://www.gr-research.com/performer/av1plus.htm
Is the $300 kit include everything? If so I wish I would have known about these when I bought my DM302's, especially the $229 AV-1 kit.
I like that they talk about finishing the wood with automotive paint jobs. I think I might take my next project to like Maaco (cause there cheap) or something and have them paint them a Dark Red color.
Unless theres a way to paint stuff at home and have a good clear coat finish and NO FREAKIN DUST SPECS!
Is the $300 kit include everything? If so I wish I would have known about these when I bought my DM302's, especially the $229 AV-1 kit.
I like that they talk about finishing the wood with automotive paint jobs. I think I might take my next project to like Maaco (cause there cheap) or something and have them paint them a Dark Red color.
Unless theres a way to paint stuff at home and have a good clear coat finish and NO FREAKIN DUST SPECS!
A few answers 🙂
Westrock2000,
Yup, I made the cabinets myself, the drivers are M130's made for Gr-Research (www.gr-research.com) thanks for the compliments! The kit includes all the crossover parts, drivers, ports, terminal cup, silver solder, heat shrink, mounting hardware...basically everything except the enclosure. It's an outstanding value, the crossover uses foil inductors and you can get an upgrade to sonicaps if you wish for extra dough.
A tip for ya too Westrock2000...to get rid of dust specs apply paste wax with 0000 steel wool and rub it in. When you buff it out you'll find a nice satin finish with no dust nubs...for high gloss wet sand with wet/dry sand paper up to about 4000 grit in steps.
bob4,
Thanks!
Westrock2000,
Yup, I made the cabinets myself, the drivers are M130's made for Gr-Research (www.gr-research.com) thanks for the compliments! The kit includes all the crossover parts, drivers, ports, terminal cup, silver solder, heat shrink, mounting hardware...basically everything except the enclosure. It's an outstanding value, the crossover uses foil inductors and you can get an upgrade to sonicaps if you wish for extra dough.
A tip for ya too Westrock2000...to get rid of dust specs apply paste wax with 0000 steel wool and rub it in. When you buff it out you'll find a nice satin finish with no dust nubs...for high gloss wet sand with wet/dry sand paper up to about 4000 grit in steps.
bob4,
Thanks!
Re: A few answers 🙂
Darren,
Welcome to the forum... nice woodwork. I heard the baby brother's of yours on the WE. They were quite good.
dave
Darren,
Welcome to the forum... nice woodwork. I heard the baby brother's of yours on the WE. They were quite good.
dave
Dang...your tempest enclosure if pure beauty...I just now got done building my tempest enclosure about 3 weeks ago and it looks nothing as good as yours...You have inspired me to maybe make some mods. to my enclosure 🙂
Here are the PICs that I am using for my recent projects:
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Brian
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Brian
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
sorry... I was playing with my PICs, and I saw the title of the thread, and that is the first thing that came to mind. I love the look of the subwoofer. It really looks like a piece of furnature. Also for the speakers, I generally hate veneer, but you did a great job with the veneer on your speakers!
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Brian
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Brian
Darren - Great job on that sub. Looks the business. Hope it sounds as good as it looks.
Excuse my ignorance here, but what exactly do you mean by paste wax? Do you just mean regular clear wax for wood? I'd really like to give this technique a go because I'm having that problem with dust specks myself. Presumably you just apply with the steel wool, let it dry then buff it up with a rag or something?
Again, please excuse my ignorance - all my knowledge is on the acoustics/electronics to make my speakers sound good rather than the woodworking side and it really annoys me that my speakers look like they were built by a 10 year old no matter how good they sound.
Excuse my ignorance here, but what exactly do you mean by paste wax? Do you just mean regular clear wax for wood? I'd really like to give this technique a go because I'm having that problem with dust specks myself. Presumably you just apply with the steel wool, let it dry then buff it up with a rag or something?
Again, please excuse my ignorance - all my knowledge is on the acoustics/electronics to make my speakers sound good rather than the woodworking side and it really annoys me that my speakers look like they were built by a 10 year old no matter how good they sound.
Paste wax...
Redeye,
Paste wax is a form of wax used in woodworking for finishes. It's silicone free. You can find it at most woodworking stores, not sure if the big box stores carry it but places like Rockler, Woodcraft, and others will have it. It should actually say "Paste Wax" on the container. Yes, just rub it in with the steel wool then buff it out with a cotton cloth. Be sure and build up a few coats if you plan on rubbing out to a gloss finish. I'd recommend at least 4 - 6 full strengh coats of poly or 10 coats of rub on poly if you go that route. You can also use Beeswax.
Darren
Redeye,
Paste wax is a form of wax used in woodworking for finishes. It's silicone free. You can find it at most woodworking stores, not sure if the big box stores carry it but places like Rockler, Woodcraft, and others will have it. It should actually say "Paste Wax" on the container. Yes, just rub it in with the steel wool then buff it out with a cotton cloth. Be sure and build up a few coats if you plan on rubbing out to a gloss finish. I'd recommend at least 4 - 6 full strengh coats of poly or 10 coats of rub on poly if you go that route. You can also use Beeswax.
Darren
Darren,
I just wanted to say your work spells craftsmanship - one of the best subs I've seen - both in design and handcrafting! (I'm jealous 🙂 - mind if I immitate your design? - might be a bit ambitious for a novice like me....
Was the box built from MDF with timber over the top? or solid timber?
Thanks,
David.
I just wanted to say your work spells craftsmanship - one of the best subs I've seen - both in design and handcrafting! (I'm jealous 🙂 - mind if I immitate your design? - might be a bit ambitious for a novice like me....
Was the box built from MDF with timber over the top? or solid timber?
Thanks,
David.
Thanks!
Hey, copy to your hearts content. I built the enclosure from MDF then veneered it with cherry 10mil paper backed veneer. I then milled down some solid cherry to 1/4" thickness and glued them up as styles and rails for the panel look. The top and feet are solid 3/4" cherry also. Mostly trickery to make it appear as though it is all solid cherry while eliminating the possibility of any rattles. It is one solid unit weighing in at around 175 pounds. My wife has her decorations on top and they don't budge when the sub is operating and we listen to movies near reference.
It really is easy. Just pay particular attention to the fit. Go slow and you know the saying: measure twice and cut once. You don't want any gaps at all, this will give you a nice quality look. Just sneak up on the final dimension for the pieces.
Darren
Hey, copy to your hearts content. I built the enclosure from MDF then veneered it with cherry 10mil paper backed veneer. I then milled down some solid cherry to 1/4" thickness and glued them up as styles and rails for the panel look. The top and feet are solid 3/4" cherry also. Mostly trickery to make it appear as though it is all solid cherry while eliminating the possibility of any rattles. It is one solid unit weighing in at around 175 pounds. My wife has her decorations on top and they don't budge when the sub is operating and we listen to movies near reference.
It really is easy. Just pay particular attention to the fit. Go slow and you know the saying: measure twice and cut once. You don't want any gaps at all, this will give you a nice quality look. Just sneak up on the final dimension for the pieces.
Darren
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