My loved Waffle Maker stopped working. Root-cause was a few wire that broke.
So, what kind of wire would you use internally in a waffle maker?
Any ideas?
Kind regards TroelsM
So, what kind of wire would you use internally in a waffle maker?
- Its hot ( dont know how hot, but hot)
- There is oil and fat leaking into every part, so wire must be resistant to that.
Any ideas?
Kind regards TroelsM
Certainly not PVC, silicone for normal wiring, fibre-glass where there is a direct contact with the heating elements (something that normally doesn't happen in modern constructions), and silicone covered with a fiber sleeve where it comes dangerously close to heat-generating elements.
If you have teflon-insulated wire, or reticulated polymer wires, they are also suitable for the general inside wiring.
The only place where PVC is allowed is the mains entry, on the condition that the appliancs has no external parts hot enough to melt it
If you have teflon-insulated wire, or reticulated polymer wires, they are also suitable for the general inside wiring.
The only place where PVC is allowed is the mains entry, on the condition that the appliancs has no external parts hot enough to melt it
Wires can be spliced. My power feeder from the street has several splices where trees broke it. My service insurance quotes replacement prices for pole and anchors, but not wire, because utility companies prefer to splice (especially in our dense woods, and right after a storm).
If you must get new wire, get a $13 waffle iron (with all safety approvals) and see if there is enough wire inside.
I crimped wires inside a vegetable steamer. It went on to serve another 10 years. I crimped because that's what was already done at the factory. A crimp splice.
I didnt notice IT was lounge so hurried to see which speaker or Amp is called a waffle maler.
Does it have tubes?
Cheers!
Does it have tubes?
Cheers!
Exactly !! LOL
I thought at first you came up with a new humorous or comical term
for making fun of Class A or Tube amps
I have heard terms like "Egg Fryer" or "Space Heater"
So I thought " Waffle Maker" was a new creative twist.
far as the topic I believe appliance wire or MGT
is rated for 1000 F or 538 C
and have seen additional black colored fiberglass sleeve
for higher temperatures.
You would likely need to determine the current draw rating
of the waffle heaters for proper wire gauge depending on
your receptacle/mains voltage
there is likely a breaker on the unit or cord which hopefully states
the breaker current, which should clue in roughly how much
power it uses.
I thought at first you came up with a new humorous or comical term
for making fun of Class A or Tube amps
I have heard terms like "Egg Fryer" or "Space Heater"
So I thought " Waffle Maker" was a new creative twist.
far as the topic I believe appliance wire or MGT
is rated for 1000 F or 538 C
and have seen additional black colored fiberglass sleeve
for higher temperatures.
You would likely need to determine the current draw rating
of the waffle heaters for proper wire gauge depending on
your receptacle/mains voltage
there is likely a breaker on the unit or cord which hopefully states
the breaker current, which should clue in roughly how much
power it uses.
Match what was in there. Or one size larger, since the factory stuff did fail.
Standard ampacity tables are for "reasonable" temperatures, and waffle makers run unreasonably hot. Waffle wire is made to take it, and in old cookers typically fails by oxidation through the Nickel plating.
Don't play with the old wire, it may be asbestos. If in good shape, damp it down so it won't shed dust, do repair, close it up. If in terrible shape, wet it good and put it in plastic bag in the household trash. (Larger quantities go in special bags to special disposal but not a few wires.)
Yes. (Probably called different names in different markets).
#14 may be ample for about any residential cooking appliance. Even #20.
https://www.amazon.com/14-High-Temperature-APPLIANCE-HEATERS/dp/B007CLZAB4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AIO7ERO/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3D3SL9/
https://www.thermalwire.com/how-to-establish-ampacity-ratings-for-electrical-wires/
Heater wire.
Copper alloy, mica wound, then fiberglass sleeved.
Good to at least 400 degrees C continuous.
Higher temperature mineral insulated cable, used for furnaces, good to 1100 C, is also made, but may be over kill for a waffle maker.
1 / 1.5 / 2.5 / 4/ 6 / 8 sq. mm. are commonly available, sold per meter by specialist heater makers or dealers.
Choose as needed.
One size higher reduced the wire heat loss and power consumption in my case, so space permitting, it is a good idea.
Use mechanical joints like crimp only, no solder or screw.
Copper alloy, mica wound, then fiberglass sleeved.
Good to at least 400 degrees C continuous.
Higher temperature mineral insulated cable, used for furnaces, good to 1100 C, is also made, but may be over kill for a waffle maker.
1 / 1.5 / 2.5 / 4/ 6 / 8 sq. mm. are commonly available, sold per meter by specialist heater makers or dealers.
Choose as needed.
One size higher reduced the wire heat loss and power consumption in my case, so space permitting, it is a good idea.
Use mechanical joints like crimp only, no solder or screw.
exactly what I was thinking since the original wire failed.
Match what was there or use larger wire.
Makes it even more fun since Gauge# is smaller for larger wire.
leave it to humans to make breakfast more complicated LOL
Out of curiosity, I wondered what a " ideal" iron temperature is for a waffle.
First search said 180 C
So I would assume 538 C rated appliance wire is considered good
I guess one thing to keep it mind is likely the insulation is 538 C rated
maybe a more realistic temp range for the actual wire is lower.
And could explain why hot/cold or thermal cycles could cause
a " rated" wire to fail over time.
and if it does fail, appliance stops working but wire doesn't melt or catch fire
The gauge is not the size but the number of times it ran through the shrinking machine. You take 1/4" bar and run it through a 0.22" hole, you get #1 wire. A slightly smaller hole, now it is #2 wire. Yes #40 has been through about 40 successively smaller dies. (If they know they need fine wire they can skip a few numbers, but you can only do so much in one die before the wire breaks.)
The insulation is almost always the limit. Certainly the copper in house-wire will stand a lot more than 60C, even 90C--- but the rubber or PVC insulation softens. On wire and also in the switch or outlet it connects to. When we get to fiberglass and mic, now we can work so hot the copper quickly oxidizes; that's why it is Nickel-clad. (Nickel is great stuff but expensive, 2 to 5 times copper.)
Thanks for all the inputs. I tried silicone ( bigger diameter tham the old).
The failure was in the hinge from bottom to top, so because of mechanical stress and not heat/age.
Were are waflling again, we´ll see how long it lasts.
Sidenote: the inside of a wafflemaker is nasty.
Kind regards TroelsM
The failure was in the hinge from bottom to top, so because of mechanical stress and not heat/age.
Were are waflling again, we´ll see how long it lasts.
Sidenote: the inside of a wafflemaker is nasty.
Kind regards TroelsM
If its been accidantally bent an extra time during handling or manufacturing I guess thats where it will break
Cheers!
Cheers!