2.1 Boombox. I Could Use Some Guidance.
Hello All, a small project of mine brought me here in the hopes that some of you could help me put the finishing touches on it.
I am in the planning phase of rehousing my Gaming PC into a 22inch Rigid Toolbox, in order to make it more portable than the tower it is in.
The carry handles and extra space for the keyboard and such is the main reason I decided to try it,
but then "The Question" popped into my head "Why Stop There?"
I am going to be running power into the box and have internal surge protection and a power strip,
and now all it needs is sound in order to be an all-in-one entertainment rig, which will only need a monitor and a single 110v outlet.
Ideally, the system would be filtered, with 1-2 Tweeters, 2 Midrange Speakers, and 1-2 Subwoofers powered by a bluetooth amp board.
They would need to be in the 1-3" size range, and still need to be plugged into the PC via USB or AUX.
I would like it to sound better and louder than a bluetooth speaker, and obviously better than the "Internal Speakers" found in TV's and such.
I don't have the necessary knowledge about Ohm's, Watts, Placement near electronics, and power to jump right into it, so I was hoping for some instruction.
I hope you all can help me, thank you for your time.
(THIS POST IS IRRELEVANT, DESIGN CHANGED FURTHER DOWN)
Hello All, a small project of mine brought me here in the hopes that some of you could help me put the finishing touches on it.
I am in the planning phase of rehousing my Gaming PC into a 22inch Rigid Toolbox, in order to make it more portable than the tower it is in.
The carry handles and extra space for the keyboard and such is the main reason I decided to try it,
but then "The Question" popped into my head "Why Stop There?"
I am going to be running power into the box and have internal surge protection and a power strip,
and now all it needs is sound in order to be an all-in-one entertainment rig, which will only need a monitor and a single 110v outlet.
Ideally, the system would be filtered, with 1-2 Tweeters, 2 Midrange Speakers, and 1-2 Subwoofers powered by a bluetooth amp board.
They would need to be in the 1-3" size range, and still need to be plugged into the PC via USB or AUX.
I would like it to sound better and louder than a bluetooth speaker, and obviously better than the "Internal Speakers" found in TV's and such.
I don't have the necessary knowledge about Ohm's, Watts, Placement near electronics, and power to jump right into it, so I was hoping for some instruction.
I hope you all can help me, thank you for your time.
(THIS POST IS IRRELEVANT, DESIGN CHANGED FURTHER DOWN)
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You should consider how the box is grounded. A toolbox is normally painted. A computer case is normally connected through the power supply housing mounting screws. However yours will have extra features.
A 3 inch subwoofer ?
I know the JBL boomboxes with subs ?? on the sides but I don't think we can call them subs. You will need something in the 8-10 inch size for decent bass.
If You like them, go for it but don't expect to house a party for more than say 25 friends.
They won't be loud. Depends of what You consider loud.
An entry level trusted manufacturer PA speaker is 300-400W AES with 96 dB.
A 100dB speaker with the same amp is twice as loud, but in order to have twice the sound pressure in Your ears You need 10 x more Watts.
That's why we talk about 20-50K on rock concerts.
Study dB - Sound Pressure levels / Speaker efficiency / Sensitivity.
Watts doesn't mean anything without dB specs. Boom boxes are so inefficient they even don't specify it.
Car & HIFI speakers are usually in the 90 dB range.
Don't be foolished by PMPO (imaginary Watts) specs either.
For portability there are small form factor PC's and laser keyboards You know...and portable speakers.
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I call any speaker with bass as a focus a "Subwoofer", which probably emphasizes my ignorance lol
The toolbox in question is all black plastic except for the hinges and latches, and I don't think it is painted.
Thanks for pointing that out MAAC0, that's more than I was thinking. I just want it to sound good and clear if it was in the middle of a living room.
The toolbox in question is all black plastic except for the hinges and latches, and I don't think it is painted.
Thanks for pointing that out MAAC0, that's more than I was thinking. I just want it to sound good and clear if it was in the middle of a living room.
okay, I think I narrowed it down. Because the toolbox is a part of a "Stacking" set, I will be getting a shorter "Organizer" that will snap right on top of it.
It is an organizer with 3 seperate bays, 2 small on the ends, and one large square bay in the center, perfect for seperating the drivers from the sub. I am thinking of a 2x25-50w+100w sub bluetooth amp board, a Tang Band W6-2253S 6-1/2" Low Profile Subwoofer, and either 2 full range or oval coaxial car speakers, and basically making a bluetooth boombox.
Does this sound more reasonable? Thanks
It is an organizer with 3 seperate bays, 2 small on the ends, and one large square bay in the center, perfect for seperating the drivers from the sub. I am thinking of a 2x25-50w+100w sub bluetooth amp board, a Tang Band W6-2253S 6-1/2" Low Profile Subwoofer, and either 2 full range or oval coaxial car speakers, and basically making a bluetooth boombox.
Does this sound more reasonable? Thanks
6-1/2*2.54=16 cm will sound better than the tiny JBL's. Most car speakers are this size.
Perhaps a 10'(20-25cm) box just for the sub will suffice. The other speakers can be smaller. Try on cardboard first and then adjust size for bass needed. China shops usually have small wooden boxes You can try before settling on the final one.
Perhaps a 10'(20-25cm) box just for the sub will suffice. The other speakers can be smaller. Try on cardboard first and then adjust size for bass needed. China shops usually have small wooden boxes You can try before settling on the final one.
Okay, I've got the parts list narrowed down.
Sub - W6-2253S|Part # 264-937
Amp - TPS3116D2|Part # 320-635
And I have 2 picks for Mids.
The folks at partsexpress suggested 2 of these and no need for tweeters:
Dayton Model: PC83-4|Part # 295-154
But then I came across these... the Sensitivities, Ohms and watts RMS all match up perfectly. Do you think these would wire up just fine with the 2x50w channels on the amp?
KICKER KSC350 3.5" Full Range Coaxial Speakers
SKU: KIC17-44KSC3504
Sub - W6-2253S|Part # 264-937
Amp - TPS3116D2|Part # 320-635
And I have 2 picks for Mids.
The folks at partsexpress suggested 2 of these and no need for tweeters:
Dayton Model: PC83-4|Part # 295-154
But then I came across these... the Sensitivities, Ohms and watts RMS all match up perfectly. Do you think these would wire up just fine with the 2x50w channels on the amp?
KICKER KSC350 3.5" Full Range Coaxial Speakers
SKU: KIC17-44KSC3504
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I won't argue with you there, but unless you are building the Box yourself, you are stuck with the dimensions you can work within.
I've heard it is a good idea to enclose the to keep interference down with other drivers. Would something like this, screwed inside the box over the cone work?
Model: PH8-1|Part # 300-300
I've heard it is a good idea to enclose the to keep interference down with other drivers. Would something like this, screwed inside the box over the cone work?
Model: PH8-1|Part # 300-300
I just realized I missed a word in the prior post. what I meant to say, was "I heard it is a good idea to enclose the subwoofer"
So I ended up going with the kicker ks 4". It might take some tweaking to fit, but I'll make it work somehow.
I need some advice on a battery. I found 1 on aliexpress for a good price, but I'm not sure if it fits the requirements.
12v 30000mAh
The switch is for charging it, which isn't an issue, but what about the dc plug? Are there disadvantages to using them instead of direct wiring? Thanks
I need some advice on a battery. I found 1 on aliexpress for a good price, but I'm not sure if it fits the requirements.
12v 30000mAh
The switch is for charging it, which isn't an issue, but what about the dc plug? Are there disadvantages to using them instead of direct wiring? Thanks
Parts List:
Hi all, I finally got the parts list down.
I HAVE:
-12v 12amp monitor brick power supply cable
-Car Jumpstarter Battery w/ 12v 10amp output port. (Too much iffy info on Aliexpress Battery)
-Bluetooth 2.1 Amp Board 100w+2x50w
-2x 4" Kicker Coaxial Speakers 4 Ohm 15-75 RMS
-6.5" Tang Band Subwoofer 4 Ohm 100w RMS
-18g oxygen purged/sealed speaker wire.
-1/8" thick adhesive-backed neoprene (to insulate the interior of the toolbox)
-1/4" thick ABS Plastic Sheet (to mount the drivers to for rigidity, and a proper flat seal)
Now I need to figure out the power situation. Ideally it would switch over to battery power when the power supply is unplugged,
but a simple ON-OFF-ON switch would be okay also. Any advice on what this would require? Oh, and also anything else I might be missing, Thank you.
Hi all, I finally got the parts list down.
I HAVE:
-12v 12amp monitor brick power supply cable
-Car Jumpstarter Battery w/ 12v 10amp output port. (Too much iffy info on Aliexpress Battery)
-Bluetooth 2.1 Amp Board 100w+2x50w
-2x 4" Kicker Coaxial Speakers 4 Ohm 15-75 RMS
-6.5" Tang Band Subwoofer 4 Ohm 100w RMS
-18g oxygen purged/sealed speaker wire.
-1/8" thick adhesive-backed neoprene (to insulate the interior of the toolbox)
-1/4" thick ABS Plastic Sheet (to mount the drivers to for rigidity, and a proper flat seal)
Now I need to figure out the power situation. Ideally it would switch over to battery power when the power supply is unplugged,
but a simple ON-OFF-ON switch would be okay also. Any advice on what this would require? Oh, and also anything else I might be missing, Thank you.