I have 2 questions been awhile since I did an install or messed with subwoofers .
Question 1: I’m rebuilding 2 DD audio sub woofers I had to order new baskets for the subs . My question is do I use locktite on the screws that are used to attach basket to motor assembly since the motors are heavy or is locktite not necessary?
2nd question : I’m gonna be running a 8k amp to the subs and 2 400 watt amps to the mods and highs . Question is I see 0 gauge , wire 4/0 gauge ect a lot of people say use 4/0 from front to back ect and from back batteries to amp use bigger wire and use a reducer is this really necessary or will 0 gauge wire be sufficient from front to back and back batteries to amps?
Also where the wires go into the amp do I just strip some wire and slide it into the terminal or should I use wire ferrules since a lot of people are saying to use them
Question 1: I’m rebuilding 2 DD audio sub woofers I had to order new baskets for the subs . My question is do I use locktite on the screws that are used to attach basket to motor assembly since the motors are heavy or is locktite not necessary?
2nd question : I’m gonna be running a 8k amp to the subs and 2 400 watt amps to the mods and highs . Question is I see 0 gauge , wire 4/0 gauge ect a lot of people say use 4/0 from front to back ect and from back batteries to amp use bigger wire and use a reducer is this really necessary or will 0 gauge wire be sufficient from front to back and back batteries to amps?
Also where the wires go into the amp do I just strip some wire and slide it into the terminal or should I use wire ferrules since a lot of people are saying to use them
I have another hobby where locktite is very important. Locktite can never be bad in this case (or you used a way too strong locktite).
I would suggest using a tiny bit (first 2 rings from a screw) of locktite.
What also is a very good method is to use a dual copper input block. This block has 2 cable inputs. You can very easily remove and mount this block onto your amplifier.
One negative con about a bare stripped wire (I always had this, currently as well) is that pulling a cable out that has been mounted, will result in some little copper strands to fall out.
What 8k amplifier do you have?
I would suggest using a tiny bit (first 2 rings from a screw) of locktite.
What also is a very good method is to use a dual copper input block. This block has 2 cable inputs. You can very easily remove and mount this block onto your amplifier.
One negative con about a bare stripped wire (I always had this, currently as well) is that pulling a cable out that has been mounted, will result in some little copper strands to fall out.
What 8k amplifier do you have?
Blue locktite at the very least, these are high vibration parts.
An 8k amp that is say 50-70% efficient is one hell of a hungry beast, you are looking at multi battery, multi alternator setups for this with as thick cabling as you can reasonably afford.
Do the maths on the current draw and see. 🙂
An 8k amp that is say 50-70% efficient is one hell of a hungry beast, you are looking at multi battery, multi alternator setups for this with as thick cabling as you can reasonably afford.
Do the maths on the current draw and see. 🙂
do not need loctite, I don't know anyone who uses it HOWEVER glue the heads to the basket with the CA. I use CA glue on the spider and tripple joint, E6000 on the surround and dust cap.
If the 8k is a Taramps, Make sure you get the multiple input adapters made for Taramps, these can be had from ill customz, jimz machineworx and few others.
For 8000 watts plan for 800 amps of current, do not short the amp power, run enough wire to cover the amperage capactity. going lithium would be ideal however not needed, but AGM is expensive, more than the former. With the battery bank in the back you only have to run enough wire to cover your alternator output amperage as your 270A alternator will not supply 400Amps no matter how hard the Amplifier tries to demand it! (I see people running 4 1/0 wires off the alt stud and laugh, I believe 400 is the biggest alt and even 2 runs of CCA has that covered)
Make sure you terminate your ends well no matter the wire choice on ends exposed to the elements. Make sure your grounds are plentiful, input adapters are a god send and next to that adhesive lined heat shrink. I use 2/0 lugs on 1/0 wire with a hydraulic crimper
If the 8k is a Taramps, Make sure you get the multiple input adapters made for Taramps, these can be had from ill customz, jimz machineworx and few others.
For 8000 watts plan for 800 amps of current, do not short the amp power, run enough wire to cover the amperage capactity. going lithium would be ideal however not needed, but AGM is expensive, more than the former. With the battery bank in the back you only have to run enough wire to cover your alternator output amperage as your 270A alternator will not supply 400Amps no matter how hard the Amplifier tries to demand it! (I see people running 4 1/0 wires off the alt stud and laugh, I believe 400 is the biggest alt and even 2 runs of CCA has that covered)
Make sure you terminate your ends well no matter the wire choice on ends exposed to the elements. Make sure your grounds are plentiful, input adapters are a god send and next to that adhesive lined heat shrink. I use 2/0 lugs on 1/0 wire with a hydraulic crimper
Certainly going to be a matter of opinion, with that said in my opinion cmax (chemistry:NMC) is the most common, highest c ratings, highest voltage and best bang for your buck. The draw backs are, they have burned at least a car down, really need to charge 15.5v+ to get them to really shine, they are all used and I do not think they are being produced any longer.
Ying long (chemistry: LTO) would be a close second.
In my personal daily car I run headway(chemistry:LifePo4) with a 566F capacitor bank and 2 agm batteries. That's the plus with LifePo4 is having the ability to mix with lead acid where the others you can not.
There is a couple new ones I don't know much about as I have done all my research on cmax (building that car now and have the cells) and headway. Within the last year solar has sky rocketed and now super capacitors, lithium and agm have as well. Now with Tesla buying Maxwell who knows what the fate of super caps is.
Ying long (chemistry: LTO) would be a close second.
In my personal daily car I run headway(chemistry:LifePo4) with a 566F capacitor bank and 2 agm batteries. That's the plus with LifePo4 is having the ability to mix with lead acid where the others you can not.
There is a couple new ones I don't know much about as I have done all my research on cmax (building that car now and have the cells) and headway. Within the last year solar has sky rocketed and now super capacitors, lithium and agm have as well. Now with Tesla buying Maxwell who knows what the fate of super caps is.
I do not compete so do not quote me, but I do not believe there are rules on eletrical aspect of things when looking at this years rules. Some people run dedicated elerctrical systems to leave the factory eletrical system isolated from the higher voltage if that is what you curious about?
Most modules are pretty safe to 16v though. I do have a voltmeter with programable high/low voltage alarm in case of voltage spike and drop of course, If I will be able to hear it at full tilt is a different question ha!
Most modules are pretty safe to 16v though. I do have a voltmeter with programable high/low voltage alarm in case of voltage spike and drop of course, If I will be able to hear it at full tilt is a different question ha!