Hello everybody.I have faulty projector Infocus lp600.I knew that lamp would be blown when i was buying it.In addition glass on the front of projector lamp is cracked.
I know that this piece of glass works as temperature barrier with uv filter layer.Because is cracked that i assume it will spread light badly and some colours of picure areas might be falsed.
I can not get anything temp resistant so i bought two 50W ceiling halogens.I am tryinh to achieve the same thickness as original glass by building layers + i will buy digital camera uv filter and place it on front of other glass pieces.
Because lamp is quite expensive so decided to buy xenon kit 50W and install it with external PSU ( Pc ATX or similar giving me 14V and 6A)
I am having difficulties to get service schamatic to see which transoptor must be bridged.
Also i want to ask if anyone installed xenon bulb and it was best cheap solution.
I will posting few pictures.sorry for low quality.
I know that this piece of glass works as temperature barrier with uv filter layer.Because is cracked that i assume it will spread light badly and some colours of picure areas might be falsed.
I can not get anything temp resistant so i bought two 50W ceiling halogens.I am tryinh to achieve the same thickness as original glass by building layers + i will buy digital camera uv filter and place it on front of other glass pieces.
Because lamp is quite expensive so decided to buy xenon kit 50W and install it with external PSU ( Pc ATX or similar giving me 14V and 6A)
I am having difficulties to get service schamatic to see which transoptor must be bridged.
Also i want to ask if anyone installed xenon bulb and it was best cheap solution.
I will posting few pictures.sorry for low quality.
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Somehow I doubt you will need a UV glass for a 50W halogen and the 50W Xenon would also give out a tiny amount of UV light (correct me if I am wrong some one) as the image produced won't be so bright thus reflecting only small amount of UV if any.
In relation to bypass, you would have been better off requesting information at http://www.projectionforums.com as that site is owned by CrazyFunGuy who is the king in projector bypass and is a very active member of the community however I am not too sure if the site is currently maintained as it seems to be infested with pornographic spam. CrazyFunGuy - sort it out mate. 😛
In relation to bypass, you would have been better off requesting information at http://www.projectionforums.com as that site is owned by CrazyFunGuy who is the king in projector bypass and is a very active member of the community however I am not too sure if the site is currently maintained as it seems to be infested with pornographic spam. CrazyFunGuy - sort it out mate. 😛
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Your point about power and uv radiation seems to be right.I will ask guys at projectionforums too.Thank you for priceless information.
Someone said that cheap xenons with ballasts from china are not good?Why?I have some installed for mi motorcycles and works well for long time.
Hey nice to see someone from the UK with similar interest! Let me start off by saying the LP600 is a really good projector. extremely light and reasoanble sized, and very easy to work on. However, I hope that you are aware that with any mods, the output lumens will be considerably lower than what these projectors are capable of outputting. Conversely, it is all fun just to tinker about with these. Xenon would be the recommended mod as the colour temperature is more pleasant and the brightness would be better than halogen counterparts. In addition to this, I agree with Jacknife regarding the UV issue you are concerned with.
Now most may not be aware but the LP600 come with 2 different types of power supplies. However, I can't remeber off the top of my head if both types had the same arrangements of opto-couplers or not. Nevertheless, you should have five opto-couplers each numbered with a 'U' prefix (U501, U503, U504, U506 and U507). They all have 4 legs and leg 1 is marked by a dot on the casing. The leg either to the left or right would be pin 4 and the leg below or above it would be pin 2.
What you need to do to bypass this little baby is short leg 3 and 4 on both U503 and U507 optocouplers but leave the other opto-couplers as they are. So in other words, you dab a bit of solder onto the legs opposite to the dot side and make a bridge. Hope this works for you and remeber to also short the lamp cover switch to think the cover is on or it won't work. Don't forget to post the outcome and any updates they may interest others 🙂
Now most may not be aware but the LP600 come with 2 different types of power supplies. However, I can't remeber off the top of my head if both types had the same arrangements of opto-couplers or not. Nevertheless, you should have five opto-couplers each numbered with a 'U' prefix (U501, U503, U504, U506 and U507). They all have 4 legs and leg 1 is marked by a dot on the casing. The leg either to the left or right would be pin 4 and the leg below or above it would be pin 2.
What you need to do to bypass this little baby is short leg 3 and 4 on both U503 and U507 optocouplers but leave the other opto-couplers as they are. So in other words, you dab a bit of solder onto the legs opposite to the dot side and make a bridge. Hope this works for you and remeber to also short the lamp cover switch to think the cover is on or it won't work. Don't forget to post the outcome and any updates they may interest others 🙂
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Hello again.Yes i have bridged two opto-couplers and for easy tests cover switch too.I have noticed that there is not much room for any extra bits behind lamp.Also you can not remove all bulb case because it holds everything on two pins and one screw.No other brackets can be installed i think.Is nessesary to install glass with uv filter if there iwll be xenon bulb.My square piece is cracked and has burnt hole in the middle. If i take two layers of 50w ceiling halogen will it be enough or i must put glass with uv filter too?
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I think you should not worry about the UV lens now and carry on with what you are doing. A lot of the time, a cracked UV lens makes no difference to the projected image and is barely noticeable. If it is noticeable, only then should you think of replacing it. Most glass block out UV to some extent anyway and you can appeciate how many pieces of glass (including the glass within the lens unit) your projector has. As for lack of room around the lamp area, you have got a faulty lamp, what is wrong with you relamping the xenon burner in the original reflector and lamp housing? Is your xenon burner longer than the original mercury vapour burner? If so, you will have problems for the arc position has to be accurately positioned as the original burner in which case it will touch the UV glass or worst case scenario not fit.
BTW have you shone a light down the colour wheel/light tunnel and looked through the lens to see if an image is there when powered on? For this will confirm if the projector is ready for an alternative light source.
BTW have you shone a light down the colour wheel/light tunnel and looked through the lens to see if an image is there when powered on? For this will confirm if the projector is ready for an alternative light source.
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