OMG, I never thought that these performing are at risk to cause the amplifier to damage. I really don’t know, how can it be? Since it’s simply adjusting woofer’s impedance representing to a low-pass filter, IMHO.
My current thought is I’ll now not go to use a 2 Ohms resistor serially connected to two 4 Ohms woofers parallel. Instead, I’d rather go for an 8 Ohms resistor parallel to two 4 Ohms woofers being serially wired. BUT, the resistor MUST be high wattage/ heatsink type. Does it sound better?
My current thought is I’ll now not go to use a 2 Ohms resistor serially connected to two 4 Ohms woofers parallel. Instead, I’d rather go for an 8 Ohms resistor parallel to two 4 Ohms woofers being serially wired. BUT, the resistor MUST be high wattage/ heatsink type. Does it sound better?
Or just drop the resistor all together. two 4Ohm serial connected drivers equal 8 ohm load which is perfect for home audio. Due to the low sensitive of the 12” drivers you look at you could put a 4 ohm resistor in series with the car mid and the car high too making the whole speaker nominal 8 ohm, a perfect value for home audio. If you choose maybe 350 and 3500 hz xo I think you may be on to something here. 87dB sensitivity isn’t very good for a speaker this size but it’s better than 70. Why not sim that setup?
8 Ohms is double of 4 Ohms, thus, inductors is doubled, too.
The x/o point for low-pass filter is intended to set at about 100 Hz due to the need to use as much as benefit from the 6” midranges, hence, 10 mH may be applied. If I use 8 Ohms on woofers, 20 mH will substitute the 10 mH.
That's why I need 4 Ohms.
The x/o point for low-pass filter is intended to set at about 100 Hz due to the need to use as much as benefit from the 6” midranges, hence, 10 mH may be applied. If I use 8 Ohms on woofers, 20 mH will substitute the 10 mH.
That's why I need 4 Ohms.Nobody needs 4 ohm. Thats just weird. You should always try to end up with 8 ohm for an easy amp load and low distortion. Is it so that you have that 10mH already? Then you have to have 8 ohm. It will give you 120hz (first order). At 4 ohm you would get 60hz. At 2 ohm 30 Hz. 4 ohm tots is not possible with 2 4 ohm drivers. You would need only 1 or 4 to make that happen. Or two 8 ohm in parallel. But why not try 8 ohm as intended in home use? The two 12” in serial would be great. With that 10mh you get that 120hz filter. I’m not sure what you think you will get for benefits of that 6” crossed so low it will probably not only make baffle step correction difficult but you will also reduce the overall system sensitivity and power handling capacity. Remember you probably need to attenuate the mid and high due to the selected woofers low sensitivity. You should do that with a 4 ohm serial resistor in the mid and the high. I’ll draw it up to you as my last post as soon as I bring up my laptop as final advice, I won’t spend more time telling you the same over and over. You are free to do whatever you want, and I love to see the results of this project. But please stop asking for advice as you are incapable of taking it, you have decided already years ago when I look at your previous threads about the same.
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“Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once."
presscot,
it is of utmost importance to stop conjecturing on the future loudspeaker performance parameters if you wish to bring this project idea to a successful closure.
Simulation software was designed in the first place to help you with that. It can answer probably every question you may think of but there is a catch. You need to learn how to do that. There have been threads covering aspects of simulation practices, white papers explaining stuff, etc.
You can't realize what a x/o filter may do until you feed a simulation program with realistically looking data. This fantasising of, I need 10mH for 4 ohm, I need twice as much for 8 ohms, is pointless.
You will think of how to build a x/o or how to achieve specific values of it after you are passed the heaviest part of the job.
And, it isn't polite to ignore/dismiss knowledgeable people.
presscot,
it is of utmost importance to stop conjecturing on the future loudspeaker performance parameters if you wish to bring this project idea to a successful closure.
Simulation software was designed in the first place to help you with that. It can answer probably every question you may think of but there is a catch. You need to learn how to do that. There have been threads covering aspects of simulation practices, white papers explaining stuff, etc.
You can't realize what a x/o filter may do until you feed a simulation program with realistically looking data. This fantasising of, I need 10mH for 4 ohm, I need twice as much for 8 ohms, is pointless.
You will think of how to build a x/o or how to achieve specific values of it after you are passed the heaviest part of the job.
And, it isn't polite to ignore/dismiss knowledgeable people.
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Oh, I'm sorry that I didn't thank you anyone. I just wouldn't like to bother them longer with my questions. But, in fact, I would love to hear the comments of them indeed, I wasn't dare enough to call the name individually though. Please forgive me.
I can't really thank you enough for the suggestions given by all.
I'd be especially thanking fabricadetabaco, who has provided you with a workable solution.
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