Hi everyone,
I want to run an idea past you guys regarding building a 2.1 cinema system
On a 30ft houseboat frequency response down to 16hz.
What i propose is building tanband horn speakers from plans with
A 4"tanband full range driver, a pair of these will be the front speakers
These are bookshelf speaker sized and would be constructed
Using stacked plywood.
The bass speakers, i want to use an infinite baffle as i have read
That its capable of super low frequency bass and is used by
Electronic organ players to get the 16hz fundamental they do this
by fitting a pair of 12" bass drivers in the ceiling and using the loft as the infinite
Baffle, i propose using the floor and bilge as the baffle as its
30ftx9ft and 3ft deep, the floor is made from 20mm marine ply
And is braced every 4ft as the structure of the boat, the hull is
Sea going and extremely thick fibreglass.
Would this work to form an infinite baffle and also do the tanband
Horn plans produce a good sounding speaker?
Thanks, Mat.
I want to run an idea past you guys regarding building a 2.1 cinema system
On a 30ft houseboat frequency response down to 16hz.
What i propose is building tanband horn speakers from plans with
A 4"tanband full range driver, a pair of these will be the front speakers
These are bookshelf speaker sized and would be constructed
Using stacked plywood.
The bass speakers, i want to use an infinite baffle as i have read
That its capable of super low frequency bass and is used by
Electronic organ players to get the 16hz fundamental they do this
by fitting a pair of 12" bass drivers in the ceiling and using the loft as the infinite
Baffle, i propose using the floor and bilge as the baffle as its
30ftx9ft and 3ft deep, the floor is made from 20mm marine ply
And is braced every 4ft as the structure of the boat, the hull is
Sea going and extremely thick fibreglass.
Would this work to form an infinite baffle and also do the tanband
Horn plans produce a good sounding speaker?
Thanks, Mat.
I'll give your thread a jog by suggesting this reading material which confirms that your plan to use the floor and bilge as an infinite baffle would work:
The Official IB (Infinite Baffle) FAQ | Home Theater Forum and Systems
The Official IB (Infinite Baffle) FAQ | Home Theater Forum and Systems
Thankyou,
I have read your linked post and that is the exact concept that i want to
Utilise, the things that concern me is obviously there are small vents from the
Bilge into the rooms, so some small leakage is going to occur however there
Arent any vents in the proposed room but there arent doors between the
Kitchen in the next room which has a 3" vent connected to it and no door.
The other rooms all have doors.
The placement would be ideal since i wanted the amps in a rack on the wall in
The bilge so cabling will be easy, and the floor is large slabs so if i need to
Change it back i can just replace one slab.
So the next question is driver choice, are two 12" a bit crazy? If smaller
Would surfice, i dont strictly need 16hz but the lower the better i am
Mostly wanting this configuration for efficiency, its a 10ft x 9ft room
So normal cabinets take too much space to go low enough.
Also this must run on 12v and be as frugal on power as possible.
Thanks, Mat
I have read your linked post and that is the exact concept that i want to
Utilise, the things that concern me is obviously there are small vents from the
Bilge into the rooms, so some small leakage is going to occur however there
Arent any vents in the proposed room but there arent doors between the
Kitchen in the next room which has a 3" vent connected to it and no door.
The other rooms all have doors.
The placement would be ideal since i wanted the amps in a rack on the wall in
The bilge so cabling will be easy, and the floor is large slabs so if i need to
Change it back i can just replace one slab.
So the next question is driver choice, are two 12" a bit crazy? If smaller
Would surfice, i dont strictly need 16hz but the lower the better i am
Mostly wanting this configuration for efficiency, its a 10ft x 9ft room
So normal cabinets take too much space to go low enough.
Also this must run on 12v and be as frugal on power as possible.
Thanks, Mat
Are you considering the the Tang Band W4-1879 full-range drivers for mid/treble duties?
If you are limited for amplifier power, you may be advised to go for drivers with a higher sensitivity than those, which are only 87dB/W/m.
Two 12" speakers? Why not? Provided you get the impedance, sensitivity etc. right. Or what about a single 15"?
I'm sure you'll be inundated with driver suggestions!
EDIT: I forgot you are going to horn load the Tang Bands!
If you are limited for amplifier power, you may be advised to go for drivers with a higher sensitivity than those, which are only 87dB/W/m.
Two 12" speakers? Why not? Provided you get the impedance, sensitivity etc. right. Or what about a single 15"?
I'm sure you'll be inundated with driver suggestions!
EDIT: I forgot you are going to horn load the Tang Bands!
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Hi the horn speakers are available as a kit so im not yet decided on
Buying the kit or building from plans but either way i will use the drivers
Which they designed the horns to work with.
As for power i have a bank of 17 120ah leisure batteries split into utilities
And main, maintained by 400w solar panels, so im not restrained so far
As normal say 60w amps are concerned but i dont want thousands of
Watts to drive the bass like car owners would, i need reasonable economy
But as far as transient currents go say in a film hitting bass i can easily
Handle peaks into the 100s of amps at 12v but i would like it economical
for normal listening.
As for bass speaker size i thought two had to be used for best results of an infinite battle,
All the organ setups i have seen pics of are always in pairs.
The batteries power an electric oven so they are pretty hefty however when im away i dont
Want to constantly hammer them since the run all the house utilities.
Buying the kit or building from plans but either way i will use the drivers
Which they designed the horns to work with.
As for power i have a bank of 17 120ah leisure batteries split into utilities
And main, maintained by 400w solar panels, so im not restrained so far
As normal say 60w amps are concerned but i dont want thousands of
Watts to drive the bass like car owners would, i need reasonable economy
But as far as transient currents go say in a film hitting bass i can easily
Handle peaks into the 100s of amps at 12v but i would like it economical
for normal listening.
As for bass speaker size i thought two had to be used for best results of an infinite battle,
All the organ setups i have seen pics of are always in pairs.
The batteries power an electric oven so they are pretty hefty however when im away i dont
Want to constantly hammer them since the run all the house utilities.
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You really don't need more than a handful of watts for normal listening levels (including loud normal!) when using high sensitivity speakers. Higher power gives you more headroom, but a 10' x 9' room isn't exactly a concert hall!
So, you won't be constrained by your copius battery power.
P.S. Car audio guys with kilowatt amplifiers don't actually sit inside the cars when the music is playing - unless they want their brains scrambled! Have you seen videos of these intrepid enthusiasts watching their car windscreens shatter while listening from a safe distance!
P.P.S. As for bass speaker size, it takes four 6" drivers to equal the radiating area of one 12" driver, as area is proportional to radius squared.
The area of a single 12" driver is proportional to 36 (6 squared) units and the area of a single 6" driver is proportional to 9 (3 squared)units. So you need 4 x 9 to equal 36!
The area of two 12" drivers (72 units) would exceed that of one 15" driver (56 units).
I'm rambling, but it may help your thread to receive wider attention. Time I was carted off to my bed! 😀
So, you won't be constrained by your copius battery power.
P.S. Car audio guys with kilowatt amplifiers don't actually sit inside the cars when the music is playing - unless they want their brains scrambled! Have you seen videos of these intrepid enthusiasts watching their car windscreens shatter while listening from a safe distance!
P.P.S. As for bass speaker size, it takes four 6" drivers to equal the radiating area of one 12" driver, as area is proportional to radius squared.
The area of a single 12" driver is proportional to 36 (6 squared) units and the area of a single 6" driver is proportional to 9 (3 squared)units. So you need 4 x 9 to equal 36!
The area of two 12" drivers (72 units) would exceed that of one 15" driver (56 units).
I'm rambling, but it may help your thread to receive wider attention. Time I was carted off to my bed! 😀
Does cutting holes between the bilge and your listening room jeopardize the sea worthiness of the boat? If the bilge needs to be watertight to the level above, this will be compromised by a cone failure if a large amount of water ends off in there.
I wouldnt have thought so since the panels lift up for access anyway, also there are vents in the side of the bilge to outside lower than the floor.
It sits tall out of the water anyway and the floor is raised to allow for the engine, generator, batteries, transmission.
I would think if water gets up higher than the engine you would already be needing the swimming trunks!
It sits tall out of the water anyway and the floor is raised to allow for the engine, generator, batteries, transmission.
I would think if water gets up higher than the engine you would already be needing the swimming trunks!