Increasing Brightness

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Miedosoracing said:
Hey pepe, did you wire it like you would a car speaker. Meaning white to black, and white to black opposites to the light? I thought about it as well, but just was worried about blowing something up or myself😉

I don't know how you wire car speakers. I just wired these ballasts parallel. A typical coil ballast has two terminal connectors, so you need a two pieces of wire and connect another ballast to these two pins or screws. Or you can connect more of them this way, bulb power will more or less be equal to the sum power of these ballasts.

Miedosoracing said:
Also, are there any 575w bulbs that have good color around 5200k that can last a long time? That sounds like it is a good improvement. Then with the lumen lab reflector maybe, that would put you over the 500 lumen mark maybe.

I got my bulb as used and already disposed, but it still works, so I use it. It has a very good colour, about 6000K and very high CRI, near 100%. But it's also very expensive, like 300$ or so, and has very short life, rated for 750h. Not a good deal for a DIY projector, unless you get it for free.

I have a glass reflector from an OHP. Doesn't make much difference. Good precondensor lens is much more important.

Regards
 
Pepe, now you got me confused as heck. 😀 I thought if you wired in series you increase the wattage to the amount of both, if you do it pararel, it makes it the half of both then added together?:xeye:
Like if you take a car battery, you put it together in series, it is 24volts. If you put it in pararell, it makes it 12v still, but more amps.
 
Perharps you heard it in places like LL 🙂

You can connect ballasts in parallel, no matter they are identical or not. The only issue is that the resulting power might not be exactly the sum of all the ballasts. A particular ballast, like a 400W one, is specified for a 400W MH bulb. Such a bulb has a typical operating voltage, this voltage, combined with the "resistance" of the ballasts results in a power of 400W. A 150W ballasts is specified for a 150W lamp, but operating voltage for this lamp may be different than voltage of a 400W lamp. So connecting this 150W ballast to 400W ballast may result in power increase not exactly equal to 150W, may be a bit lower, but also may be a bit higher. Anyway, it works, and I have no problems so far, except, that my condensor lens cracked again. Fortunately it's almost invisible.
 
yes, I heard some ******** there some in a while too, but this was not from there.

the only aplication I have seen is half power diming setups with two identical ballast (sure remove one and there will be half power).

I have been teached the problem is the factor on them... if they are missmatching... then you can´t say if they are runing on "nomimal" values.

your lamp is lighting, enjoy.
 
Miedosoracing said:
Ok pepe, one last question then. Check this out. Forget heat remember, I am not worrying about that right now. But if I have 3 400w ballasts, and this light bulb, wouldn't it kick butt?? And can I put 3 in pararell? Says operated on standard electronic ballasts

http://www.osram.com/pdf/service_corner/technicalinfo/1200GSe.pdf

Yes, it would work fine, assuming that these 400W ballasts are designed for a 400W bulb, which operating voltage is the same as your 1200V bulb (100V in this case). Otherwise you may end up with somewhat different power, either higher or lower, but my personal opinion is that it will just work fine.

Remember that you need a proper ignitor. I use a 400W ignitor, and it's still working, but ignitors are rated for certain power range, you should'n stress it much beyond this range.

And be careful! Remember, that improperly operated MH bulb can explode. Imagine sharp pieces of extremely hot glass, shooting into your face and eyes.

Regards
 
Miedosoracing said:
Ok, definitely if I go this direction, I will use 400w ballasts, cuz a 1200w ballast runs roughly $1200. I was like Woooohhoo. Not me.

Then I would start with two ballasts (about 800W), and see if you can manage with cooling, and maybe you will find it bright enough, and greatly extend expected bulb life.

Also think about unevitably approaching energy crisis. What we do is a "brute force" solution, it's just dumb, dirty workaround for a principal design misconception. Works well, assuming there is and abundant amount of energy, which is forcibly kept underpriced. Think someone paid from our taxes is now shooting unknown people to keep this energy price down.

Regards
 
Wonder if you Can you multiply ignitors also?


and as far as power: "5 cents per kilowatt hour. That bulb is 1.2 kilowatts. So, a 2 hours movie would be equivalent to 2.4 kilowatt-hours. That will cost you a whopping 12 cents. Assuming you watch 25 movies a month (on the high side), your monthly cost would be $3.
 
Miedosoracing said:
Wonder if you Can you multiply ignitors also?


and as far as power: "5 cents per kilowatt hour. That bulb is 1.2 kilowatts. So, a 2 hours movie would be equivalent to 2.4 kilowatt-hours. That will cost you a whopping 12 cents. Assuming you watch 25 movies a month (on the high side), your monthly cost would be $3.

No, you cannot connect multiple ignitors, you need the one of right power range, up to 1200W in your case. Well, we use all this stuff in McGyver's manner, so I think a 600W or even 400W one would do (I mean wouldn't explode immediately), but I certainly don't recommend it. All this stuff is dangerous!

As for your price calculations, it's not entirely correct. In addition to tiny cents you pay for the electricity bill, you also pay big $$$ for ongoing oil wars. Someone hired for your tax money is shooting people to keep our energy bills funny low.

Regards
 
Ok, to reiterate. I have 2 or 3 400w metal halide ballasts standard style. (They are the 400w F-can style) I can use a 1000w ignitor, and this 1200w light.

2 questions, is the ignitor for a 1000w metal halide and HPS ignitor gonna be the same.
#2 what really is the differences in the ballasts themselves of a metal halide and HPS. From what I read, the Halide pulse start light will work in the HPS ballast. So is the ignitor the only real diffence?
 
pepe303 said:
Anyway, it works, and I have no problems so far, except, that my condensor lens cracked again. Fortunately it's almost invisible. [/B]

I have had 2 explode - the condenser lens both times was just
sitting there - with the projector off - and I hear a sound like
a car window breaking - once, it was even out of the projector
when it happened - just sitting there - but tempered glass can do
strange things like that

I think it might have been that I ether tapped the lens or
scratched / chipped it - even tho I did not see it - and that
some how stressed the lens and with the heat and cold killed it
 

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pepe303 said:

As for your price calculations, it's not entirely correct. In addition to tiny cents you pay for the electricity bill, you also pay big $$$ for ongoing oil wars. Someone hired for your tax money is shooting people to keep our energy bills funny low.

Regards

were I live in the USA - our power comes from coal and nuclear
- I live about 5 miles from the coal power plant

but yea Gas still comes from OIL - but I drive a car not an suv,
but I still wish I did not have to use Gas, but thats just how
its going to be - untill Fission and Fusion works good and
fuel cells are cheap
 
will1384 said:


I have had 2 explode - the condenser lens both times was just
sitting there - with the projector off - and I hear a sound like
a car window breaking - once, it was even out of the projector
when it happened - just sitting there - but tempered glass can do
strange things like that

Looks like there was too much tension, perharps you mounted it too tight, and the glass was under permanent mechanical stress, then thermal stress made it even worse and it finally cracked. My condensor cracked in a very different way, that it's still quite usable. It broke into three big pieces, and I can see only slight shadows in smooth bright surfaces, but in "normal" scenes it's not visible, and the extra brightness I got is worth it anyway.

will1384 said:


were I live in the USA - our power comes from coal and nuclear
- I live about 5 miles from the coal power plant

but yea Gas still comes from OIL - but I drive a car not an suv,
but I still wish I did not have to use Gas, but thats just how
its going to be - untill Fission and Fusion works good and
fuel cells are cheap

Driving individual cars is a minor problem, you can always switch to bicycle, try to reduce sprawled megacities into real towns, but whatever you do, there will still be huge demand for incredible amounts of oil. Your nuclear or coal power also requires enormous amounts of oil, to build and maintain the facilities, build and maintain the power distribution network, to extract, process and transport coal or nuclear fuel, to transport waste, all this is available due to availibility of cheap oil in huge quantities. But I think this is off topic here.

Regards
 
Doesn't anyone see the irony of how fuel and oil are not changing. We went from radio to tv to dvd etc. We went from 8 track to tape to mp3 etc. We now have computers that do tons of stuff. But the fuel has basically remained oil driven since the introduction. I know there is something that is out there. I also know that the big oil companies have squashed that. So there is nothing that is gonna change, until the big oil companies find a new way to make as much money. That is why they are doing research now. But if the government would give a billion dollars to a research company instead of the oil companies, we might have something already. To many in bed with eachother with big bucks.
 
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