Ok, I have used SPL Tools to create frd and zma's, then Jeff's
Response Modeler to add baffle diffraction and cabinet response
with new zma's created for a sealed box and modded to match
the traced impedance. Let it calculate minimum phase and finally
loaded it to Passive Crossover Designer. Took me hours to do that.
Response Modeler to add baffle diffraction and cabinet response
with new zma's created for a sealed box and modded to match
the traced impedance. Let it calculate minimum phase and finally
loaded it to Passive Crossover Designer. Took me hours to do that.
LewinskiH01,
Unless I missed something, you didn't mention your midrange / tweeter selection, room size, total speaker system size limitations. If dynamics, high sensitivity, are your goal then front loaded horns rule !! Check out John Inlows site before you make a final decision on driver / cabinet type. Good luck.
Unless I missed something, you didn't mention your midrange / tweeter selection, room size, total speaker system size limitations. If dynamics, high sensitivity, are your goal then front loaded horns rule !! Check out John Inlows site before you make a final decision on driver / cabinet type. Good luck.
I'm nearly in the same position (except my 300db/octave xover allows a slightly higher xover point for my subwoofers) and for many years now i'm using a Volt 10'' midbass. It works pretty well but i'm always looking for better... To add more texture and micro-dynamics feel, i could look for a more efficient driver with lower Mms and higher Fs, but then i might have problem matching it with my subwoofers.
+/- 80-400hz is probably the trickiest of all. I wish you the best of luck 🙂
It's the performance of my subwoofers. take a look at these measurements: DIY Rythmik Audio Direct Servo 12" sealed 56L - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
It's basically the same SW I have. Same kit, in a 56 liter sealed box. Mine is stronger, but the difference in measurements is likely negligible.
I'm using 105dB at 80Hz as reference SPL. As you can see in the second chart (Maximum Output Level), the orange line labeled "105dB" is not really 105dB by 80Hz; it's 103dB, and dropping further as frequency increases. Maybe I could try and crossover at 100Hz, but seems to me as a risky design assumption now. Maybe once I'm trying a prototype I'll test it and I end up with that XO.
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