Thank you in advace for any input.
I have a problem. I have a set of old school Image Dynamics CD2-COMP's. I never got a chance to use them in my old car. I installed the mids (CX62) in the doors of a project I was gonna build (Never Connected), and that was as far as I got. About 3-4 week later I decided to sell the car. When I removed the Brand New speakers from the doors I was horrified to find that the drivers door leaked. Now I have a brand new mid that has water damage. The driver is stuck. After removing the center cone I could see RUST down in the voice coil.
This was a very sad day indeed.
I have no experince with this kind of issue. Does anyone know if this sort of thing is repairable???
I have a problem. I have a set of old school Image Dynamics CD2-COMP's. I never got a chance to use them in my old car. I installed the mids (CX62) in the doors of a project I was gonna build (Never Connected), and that was as far as I got. About 3-4 week later I decided to sell the car. When I removed the Brand New speakers from the doors I was horrified to find that the drivers door leaked. Now I have a brand new mid that has water damage. The driver is stuck. After removing the center cone I could see RUST down in the voice coil.
This was a very sad day indeed.
I have no experince with this kind of issue. Does anyone know if this sort of thing is repairable???
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yes. best thing is a recone, which you may be able to get pretty cheap, like under $30. yes, this means you need to remove the cone to get in there. what you need to do is run a peice of emmery cloth, or sand paper down there to knock the rust scale off. now, i'm pretty experienced at salvaging soft parts from back before you could get more than cheap genaric parts, or rarely, recones, so i know it is possible to separate the parts and re-assemble once finished. a nice metal prep primer is a good idea to spray a thin coat on it before re-assembling things you will need:
-i made some special tools that can separate the surround and spider, but a chisel or gasket scraper can be used with some finesse, and not distort the parts.
-plain paper to roll between the coil and pole piece. aka "shim"
-ca (cyanoacrilate) i like thick and flexable, but regular med/thin can work if you got it and setting spray helps speed things up, but it does dry fast anyways.
now, if you don't feel like doing it, and want to dump them cheap, lmk.
-i made some special tools that can separate the surround and spider, but a chisel or gasket scraper can be used with some finesse, and not distort the parts.
-plain paper to roll between the coil and pole piece. aka "shim"
-ca (cyanoacrilate) i like thick and flexable, but regular med/thin can work if you got it and setting spray helps speed things up, but it does dry fast anyways.
now, if you don't feel like doing it, and want to dump them cheap, lmk.
Thank you for the information this is good news. Back when these were new, they were around a grand (for the whole set) if I remember correctly. It's probably not a good idea to have some "Hack" cutting into a rare expensive speaker and learning on the job (When I say "Hack" I am referring to myself!). In addition, thanks for the offer to take them off my hands, but I hope to run them in the future. Matt
I agree that a re-cone is the best, but an appropriate re-cone kit may not be available. Have you tried contacting Image Dyanmics?
Something that you can do is use a set of feeler gages to help free the coil. They are strong but flexible.
While holding the speaker magnet up so the crud can fall free, use an appropriate size feeler gage to scrape around the pole piece while trying not to damage the coil former as best you can. This is the trial and error part of figuring out what size gage is going to work best for your situation. If you are successful to this point, you will need to clean the gap of the particles that did not fall free. I have used painters tape to remove that. If you are patient and take your time, you may be able to salvage this speaker without ever taking it apart.
Something that you can do is use a set of feeler gages to help free the coil. They are strong but flexible.
While holding the speaker magnet up so the crud can fall free, use an appropriate size feeler gage to scrape around the pole piece while trying not to damage the coil former as best you can. This is the trial and error part of figuring out what size gage is going to work best for your situation. If you are successful to this point, you will need to clean the gap of the particles that did not fall free. I have used painters tape to remove that. If you are patient and take your time, you may be able to salvage this speaker without ever taking it apart.
Great minds think alike! I just tried the very same technique with no luck. Even the smallest of my feeler gauges will not slip into the gap. I did knock a bit of surface rust out, but its pretty much rusted together all the way through and completely seized up. I will contact Image Dynamics today to see if the still have parts. Thank you for your input.
If you need a local guy to do it I recommend Ron at Jamac. He does as good if not better than the higher end places in town and is very reasonably priced.
another thing, looking closer, take as many measurements as possible on the softparts. cone height and exact width, surround roll hieght/width, both with and without the mounting flaps, basket i.d/od for the surround flange, coil diameter, spider diameter, as well as how for you can fit. carbon fiber recones are actually pretty common for genaric parts, and there are a few guys online that may have just what you need, or can build it exact with parts on hand, or available. that is, if you can't get the id. recone kit. if you can get a drop-in, the process is pretty simple. it's building from parts that would take a bit more skill and tooling to do. good luck
Before you tear into your prized speaker further you may want to consider some options.
1. There is no shame in taking them to an experienced shop such as your local one suggested earlier. They probably can save the soft parts so that you still have a matched set. Buying any old carbon fiber cone, coil, and spider will make that speaker sound different than the other. If they can not save the soft parts, you may need to re-cone both.
2. Obtain some junkers to practice re-coning on until you gain the confidence and know-how to tackle this yourself unless your ready to throw it away right now.
1. There is no shame in taking them to an experienced shop such as your local one suggested earlier. They probably can save the soft parts so that you still have a matched set. Buying any old carbon fiber cone, coil, and spider will make that speaker sound different than the other. If they can not save the soft parts, you may need to re-cone both.
2. Obtain some junkers to practice re-coning on until you gain the confidence and know-how to tackle this yourself unless your ready to throw it away right now.
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