Finishing up my parts list and cutout diagram for a 6 channel Hypex build. Need thoughts/input on the following:
1) To keep things simple, I was thinking of using an IEC socket with a built-in On/Off switch and Fuse. I found one on Parts Express but it says it can only handle a 6A @ 250v fuse. I will be on 110v and wanted to plan on the combined continuous rating of the Hypex's which would be 900w. So I thought a 10A fuse would be best. Any other recommendations to look at? Or is my math wrong and this socket would be fine?
2) What is the easiest way to add an LED to the Front Panel for when power is on? I will be using a 12V trigger assembly so my pre/pro will turn the amp on/off. I would assume I could splice 12v power off the trigger?
Thanks!
1) To keep things simple, I was thinking of using an IEC socket with a built-in On/Off switch and Fuse. I found one on Parts Express but it says it can only handle a 6A @ 250v fuse. I will be on 110v and wanted to plan on the combined continuous rating of the Hypex's which would be 900w. So I thought a 10A fuse would be best. Any other recommendations to look at? Or is my math wrong and this socket would be fine?
2) What is the easiest way to add an LED to the Front Panel for when power is on? I will be using a 12V trigger assembly so my pre/pro will turn the amp on/off. I would assume I could splice 12v power off the trigger?
Thanks!
I would look at what Schurter has to offer in one that includes a line filter, power switch, and suitable fuse. For example, DD22.9121.1111
So I have actually decided to use a power switch with built in LED on the front panel. I have found a few that are rated for 12VDC (around 20mA). Could the power the LED on such a switch by splicing off of the 12V trigger relay I will be installing?
There should be 2 connections for the LED with inbuilt resistor for 12V & there should be also the other two intended for switching. If You have two circuits, it is easy & possible.
If there are only two connections, make sure Your triggering circuit works with 20mA.
If there are only two connections, make sure Your triggering circuit works with 20mA.
Yes, the switch has two sets of connectors (one set for switching, one set for powering the LED with a built in resistor for 12V).
My main question is where within my build can I get 12V to power the LED?
My main question is where within my build can I get 12V to power the LED?
Please give us some details what 12v trigger assembly you're using? Is it has its own power supply or it need your pre/pro 12v trigger output to power it?
Is your 12v trigger assembly just using the pre/pro 12v trigger output to activate a 12v relay? If that is the case, then the easiest way to power the LED is connect it across/parallel to the relay coil. Just make sure the relay coil and the LED total current consumption not exceeds the pre/pro 12v trigger output current rating.
Best products come from schaffner, a firm specialized in power filtering. They have products for IEM, medical... with 2 or 3 stages...
From your favorite resseller.
https://www.mouser.fr/Schaffner/Con...s/_/N-axiqi?P=1z0zp7mZ1yphoymZ1yphoyiZ1z0x8fv
From your favorite resseller.
https://www.mouser.fr/Schaffner/Con...s/_/N-axiqi?P=1z0zp7mZ1yphoymZ1yphoyiZ1z0x8fv
This is the trigger assembly I planned on using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1
And this is the power button I planned on using
https://www.amazon.com/SupportTM-Bu...BHWNMG01BSQ&psc=1&refRID=2N8ADRAQYBHWNMG01BSQ
The manual for my Pre/Pro, which would be the signaling source for the 12V relay, says it can provide up to 50mA at 12V.
Appreciate your help on this
I read the reviews of the module and found that it needed 43mA to energize. Maybe using a 120V led instead?
Amazon.com: Alpinetech PL8B 8mm 5/16" Green 120V AC/DC LED Metal Signal Indicator Pilot Dash Light (Green): Automotive
It rated 6A@125V, Maybe go back to your original plan and use a 10A rating switched IEC socket?
KMF0.2293.11 Schurter | Mouser
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I already the panels being cutout, so can't change dimensions.
However, if I am understanding correctly, as long as I can find a power switch that can handle 10A (and an LED that can handle 50mA), I should be fine to use the original 12v module I posted?
More to add: I see that each 252MP board has it's own 6amp fuse. With three boards installed, would this mean I need to worst case scenario prepare for a total of 18amps? Or just 6amps?