I feel funny asking this since the patented SuperSymmetry design by Nelson and the rest of the Pass Labs team is their bread and butter. I have to face reality, there is no way I can afford the retail version and I'm always wanting to build what I listen to, ride, fly or drive.
If this is morally wrong, I will abandon and go with the Aleph 1.2 for my overly demanding Martin Logan Monoliths. But, if it's possible and I can get enough support and help, I am would like to know the how's and the where's for rolling my own x1000.
If this is morally wrong, I will abandon and go with the Aleph 1.2 for my overly demanding Martin Logan Monoliths. But, if it's possible and I can get enough support and help, I am would like to know the how's and the where's for rolling my own x1000.
x1000 Daunting Task 🙂
X1000 is still in production. I don't think PassLabs is ready to
release the service manual just yet.
Closest you will get, if you do a lot yourself, is when you start
here:
x100 backengineered here
Hope this is of use
X1000 is still in production. I don't think PassLabs is ready to
release the service manual just yet.
Closest you will get, if you do a lot yourself, is when you start
here:
x100 backengineered here
Hope this is of use
The schematic of the X1000 (and the X600, which is virtually
the same) is actually public record. Just obtain a full copy
of patent # 5,376,899. You will have to fill in the values, but
some of the smart boys on the forum can help you with
that. 😎
the same) is actually public record. Just obtain a full copy
of patent # 5,376,899. You will have to fill in the values, but
some of the smart boys on the forum can help you with
that. 😎
Hey C
Start with a Mini Aleph. There's a lot to learn about class A heat dissapation and power use. A pair of X 1000's would cost over $2000 in parts excluding the case and heat sinks. Plus you'll need a dryer plug and an extra half ton of A/C in your listening room to run the things. Not that I mean to discourge or belittle your abilities, But one little misstep with this beast could litterally fry $800 in parts.
Good luck
Start with a Mini Aleph. There's a lot to learn about class A heat dissapation and power use. A pair of X 1000's would cost over $2000 in parts excluding the case and heat sinks. Plus you'll need a dryer plug and an extra half ton of A/C in your listening room to run the things. Not that I mean to discourge or belittle your abilities, But one little misstep with this beast could litterally fry $800 in parts.
Good luck
I'd like to be 17 again and dating Lindsay Lohan...
(i figured as long as Mr. Pass was granting wishes!) 🙂 🙂 🙂
(i figured as long as Mr. Pass was granting wishes!) 🙂 🙂 🙂
Granting wishes indeed! Thank you Mr. Pass....I take that as a vote of approval.
I may revert to the Aleph 1.2 just because there is more support out there and those that have already done it. However the SuSY idea is very tasty.
I could always use my Aleph 1.2 clones to power my own "El Pipe-O" Need to get Mrs. Clark's approval on that though!!
Is it accurate to say that the X1000 is a likeness to an SuSY Aleph1.2???
Thanks again,
Chris
I may revert to the Aleph 1.2 just because there is more support out there and those that have already done it. However the SuSY idea is very tasty.
I could always use my Aleph 1.2 clones to power my own "El Pipe-O" Need to get Mrs. Clark's approval on that though!!
Is it accurate to say that the X1000 is a likeness to an SuSY Aleph1.2???
Thanks again,
Chris
The X1000 and X600 are push pull and the Alephs are single end with active current source with neg impedance.
The X amps are Supersymmitry and have about 1/10th the distortion.
The Alephs are single ended and have no problems with reactive loads.
The AlephX floating around the forum is both susy and SE. But oh god the current they consume. You'll need to buy a few arc welders for the transformers.
The X amps are Supersymmitry and have about 1/10th the distortion.
The Alephs are single ended and have no problems with reactive loads.
The AlephX floating around the forum is both susy and SE. But oh god the current they consume. You'll need to buy a few arc welders for the transformers.
moe29 said:I'd like to be 17 again and dating Lindsay Lohan...
(i figured as long as Mr. Pass was granting wishes!) 🙂 🙂 🙂
If I were to be 17 again I would want to date Tracy Lords. 😉
Usually the people that are crazy enough to want to build something like the x1000 pop out of nowhere with the picture of the ready built amp. 😉
All I want to do is build something.
I'm out. I realized last night standing in my shop, that all I want to do is build something. I don't yet have the knowledge to understand 1/100th of the things you guys talk about. So maybe in building a pair of 1.2s, I'll be able to understand 1/50th of the things you guys say.
I'm not worried about heat, the amps will be in a seperate room built off the garage. All I want is faster than lightening response to orchestral timphany (sp?) drums and looks of awe from family and friends followed by, "I can't believe you built those....you're such a nerd".
C
If I was 17 years old again, I would be truely dangerous.
I'm out. I realized last night standing in my shop, that all I want to do is build something. I don't yet have the knowledge to understand 1/100th of the things you guys talk about. So maybe in building a pair of 1.2s, I'll be able to understand 1/50th of the things you guys say.
I'm not worried about heat, the amps will be in a seperate room built off the garage. All I want is faster than lightening response to orchestral timphany (sp?) drums and looks of awe from family and friends followed by, "I can't believe you built those....you're such a nerd".
C
If I was 17 years old again, I would be truely dangerous.
oh yea, forgot to meantion...
I want a great big meter on the front that shows how much current I have left. I want to max out the nerd factor here.
Brian: I'm going for the brushed aluminum look, four feet, non-spiked, big meter, back-lit blue LED that turns red when power reserves are low (Hard for me to focus when I'm drinking whiskey and listening to Buena Vista Social Club) and a big power button I make my self on the lathe at 10:30PM in my PJ's.
Peace
C
I want a great big meter on the front that shows how much current I have left. I want to max out the nerd factor here.
Brian: I'm going for the brushed aluminum look, four feet, non-spiked, big meter, back-lit blue LED that turns red when power reserves are low (Hard for me to focus when I'm drinking whiskey and listening to Buena Vista Social Club) and a big power button I make my self on the lathe at 10:30PM in my PJ's.
Peace
C
Clarkcr,
Check out the Zen series on PassDIY web site. Very nice articles
on how to build an amp. Good way to learn the first 50 things.
Then you can build a Balanced Zen Line Stage.
Then you're ready for an Aleph - which you'll be able to run balanced.
I'd say go for an Aleph 2. 100 watts is plenty!
Plus you could probably find a PCB available, and that would help
a lot for first time builder. Building an Aleph 1.2 is like building
four Aleph 2's. The cost goes up, you have to match FETS in
groups of 12 instead of 6. Plus, the Aleph 2 sounds better.
Now, if it's not a match for your speakers that's another problem.
Just a few thoughts. Even if you don't plan to build a Zen, you
should read the articles... great way to learn.
Lindsay Lohan is a cute redhead. redhead rule 🙂
Check out the Zen series on PassDIY web site. Very nice articles
on how to build an amp. Good way to learn the first 50 things.
Then you can build a Balanced Zen Line Stage.
Then you're ready for an Aleph - which you'll be able to run balanced.
I'd say go for an Aleph 2. 100 watts is plenty!
Plus you could probably find a PCB available, and that would help
a lot for first time builder. Building an Aleph 1.2 is like building
four Aleph 2's. The cost goes up, you have to match FETS in
groups of 12 instead of 6. Plus, the Aleph 2 sounds better.
Now, if it's not a match for your speakers that's another problem.
Just a few thoughts. Even if you don't plan to build a Zen, you
should read the articles... great way to learn.
Lindsay Lohan is a cute redhead. redhead rule 🙂
Actually, you can build an Aleph of any size you want. Just calculate the power, volts and amps you need, than figure how many fets and heat sinks you need to burn the desired power, add pot to tweak the bias to what you can stand. Th AC current gain will vary the punchyness of the bass, and the idle dissapation to output ratio, but the other factors are completely variable. I ran my Aleph 2.5's at 55V and 5 amps bias untill I burned a few fets and source resistors. Sounded glorious until the magic smoke got loose. 3 Watt resistors glow bright white when you pass 30 amps or so through them.
Thanks fot the advice! I am building (rebuilding) my second Dynaco Stereo 70 now. Now a great deal of learning, but I'm trying to make myself understand what I'm soldering instead of just soldering. I believe this is a Class A amp to what? 5 watts, then push/pull to 30-35watts?
I am also reading a text book loaned to me from my brother...."Electronic Devices and Circuit Theory by Robert Boylestad and Louis Nashelsky. Second Edition - Prentice-Hall 1978"
The thing that bothers me about trying to reverse engineer the X1000 is having $2000 in pieces parts blow up. That would suck. Heat is not an issue. Sound is. I am drawn to the X though because I understand how truely different it is and how special the SuSY circuit is.
Thanks again.
Chris
I am also reading a text book loaned to me from my brother...."Electronic Devices and Circuit Theory by Robert Boylestad and Louis Nashelsky. Second Edition - Prentice-Hall 1978"
The thing that bothers me about trying to reverse engineer the X1000 is having $2000 in pieces parts blow up. That would suck. Heat is not an issue. Sound is. I am drawn to the X though because I understand how truely different it is and how special the SuSY circuit is.
Thanks again.
Chris
Not quite sure where the $2000 figure came from.
As far as I understand, the "X-100 back engineered here" thread clearly states that the design is scalable (within reason). The basic topology likely costs $50 in parts exclusive PSU, heatsinks, case. You may blow some / many FETs - but a fuse goes along way to protect the PSU, and the heatsinks will not melt. You could build the input and driver stage first, then add an output stage of just 4 FETs (the minimum) run off a cheap 200 VA PSU, one channel, garden variety parts.
Once everything is tweaked to work, then you start matching large number of FETs for the final frontier: to scale it up to the 1000 W figure, inserting the appropriate PSU at the last stage only. I think the real problem is to tweak the so far published schematics and values. Here, some assembly required ;-) ... and some experimentation.
From hearsay I'd say your Martin Logans may really appreciate the full X-1000 power.
As far as I understand, the "X-100 back engineered here" thread clearly states that the design is scalable (within reason). The basic topology likely costs $50 in parts exclusive PSU, heatsinks, case. You may blow some / many FETs - but a fuse goes along way to protect the PSU, and the heatsinks will not melt. You could build the input and driver stage first, then add an output stage of just 4 FETs (the minimum) run off a cheap 200 VA PSU, one channel, garden variety parts.
Once everything is tweaked to work, then you start matching large number of FETs for the final frontier: to scale it up to the 1000 W figure, inserting the appropriate PSU at the last stage only. I think the real problem is to tweak the so far published schematics and values. Here, some assembly required ;-) ... and some experimentation.
From hearsay I'd say your Martin Logans may really appreciate the full X-1000 power.
Clarkcr
C,
If you can afford the heatsinks go for Aleph 1.2.
Use less mosfets per side, 10 or 8 (I built mine with 10 per side), and bias the hell out of them.
You will be amazed how natural acoustic bass sounds with them, esp. compared to other ss/pp hi-end designs.
It just has the right amount of energy and sense of decay.
And I cann't think of any other amp that matches their midrange clarity and presence.
After living with them for some time you will find it very hard to listen to another amp (I don't know about X or XA series, I didn't have the chance to listen to them so far)
Nick
C,
If you can afford the heatsinks go for Aleph 1.2.
Use less mosfets per side, 10 or 8 (I built mine with 10 per side), and bias the hell out of them.
You will be amazed how natural acoustic bass sounds with them, esp. compared to other ss/pp hi-end designs.
It just has the right amount of energy and sense of decay.
And I cann't think of any other amp that matches their midrange clarity and presence.
After living with them for some time you will find it very hard to listen to another amp (I don't know about X or XA series, I didn't have the chance to listen to them so far)
Nick
I thought they were MOSFETs? Are you using fewer transistors to save money, or increase bass? I'm not sure why this would be a benefit....less heat I guess...but you're increasing bias so wouldn't that negate the heat saving?
Starting small is definatley par for the project. What about the balancing issue that Petter brought up in the "X100" thread?
Can anyone draw me a 4 FET minimalistic X circuit diagram? I'd liek to see how it looks compared with the patent diagram....might learn something. I'd also like to see how it looks compared with Petters diagram on his thread.
I might put my ST70s on the shelf!!
C
PS left me soldering station on last night...probably fried the heater. 😡 Rookie move.
Starting small is definatley par for the project. What about the balancing issue that Petter brought up in the "X100" thread?
Can anyone draw me a 4 FET minimalistic X circuit diagram? I'd liek to see how it looks compared with the patent diagram....might learn something. I'd also like to see how it looks compared with Petters diagram on his thread.
I might put my ST70s on the shelf!!
C
PS left me soldering station on last night...probably fried the heater. 😡 Rookie move.
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