I have an abundance of women around here... I simply hand them a MIC and I have ENDLESS audio signal. They are also self-configuring, when one stops producing signal another automatically starts.
😉
😉
poobah said:
Here too,
4 Females total,1 adult(sara) and 3 infants ages 24,24,& 25. All college grads, 2 are teachers and 1 that thought we forgot to pay our mail bill when the mailbox was empty 2 days in a row. Now thats blonde!!
They are for the most part intelligent (Gots Book Learnin) But the lot of them together is like a page out of a comic book.
I dread to even think about powering up the Mcintosh at this point, But sooner or later I will give in,
Gene
Hi poobah,
Cheaper to got out and buy an audio generator.
-Chris
The problem is- no manual, inefficient with cash. High maintenance in many other ways. And finally. NO OFF SWITCH!!
Cheaper to got out and buy an audio generator.
-Chris
Well,
As luck has it, I can sure find the stuff (gear) but Damn if I ever get lucky and have any of it work more than 10 minutes.
The McIntosh MC240 is also being a bummer.
I brought it up slowly with the variac, Everything seamed good. No noises, No Red Plates,No Smoke. waited about 5 minutes before applying a signal.
I plugged her into my old thinkpad, popped in a CD,Let her rip.
About 1-2 minutes in, it seamed like 1 channel faded slightly,Then it was fine again, about another minute, Pop goes the fuse.
I replaced the old fuse, Brought her up slowly only to pop the fuse again.
The voltmeter was plugged into the aux outlet on the amp. It was holding fairly solid at 121V regardless of the amp running or not.
SO, looks like another closet filler in the works.
I have the weirdest luck.
Gene
As luck has it, I can sure find the stuff (gear) but Damn if I ever get lucky and have any of it work more than 10 minutes.
The McIntosh MC240 is also being a bummer.
I brought it up slowly with the variac, Everything seamed good. No noises, No Red Plates,No Smoke. waited about 5 minutes before applying a signal.
I plugged her into my old thinkpad, popped in a CD,Let her rip.
About 1-2 minutes in, it seamed like 1 channel faded slightly,Then it was fine again, about another minute, Pop goes the fuse.
I replaced the old fuse, Brought her up slowly only to pop the fuse again.
The voltmeter was plugged into the aux outlet on the amp. It was holding fairly solid at 121V regardless of the amp running or not.
SO, looks like another closet filler in the works.
I have the weirdest luck.
Gene
Hi Gene,
The bias voltage in the MC-240 is generated with our old friend, the selenium rectifier.
Don't allow old parts known to fail get you. When you build an amp, do you use old parts or new parts? I'll bet that if you built with old parts, you would need another closet or two. 😉
If I lived closer I could give you a hand. But heck, I'm in another country!
-Chris
The bias voltage in the MC-240 is generated with our old friend, the selenium rectifier.
Don't allow old parts known to fail get you. When you build an amp, do you use old parts or new parts? I'll bet that if you built with old parts, you would need another closet or two. 😉
If I lived closer I could give you a hand. But heck, I'm in another country!
-Chris
anatech said:
One thing you guys taught me when I first got back into this delightful hobby, Throw out all those Junk carbon comps I have been storing 30 years! Those went along with many other antiques.
I replaced all my Carbon Comps with a buyout from a local Dist, These ones are only a few years old LOL
But I never build with them,I have these just for restores.
Later after you guys helped me through a couple other amps I built I started stocking up on parts common to the current needs.
Other than the occasional infant failures of a couple components, I have had many successes and learned a lot about the building end.
Didn't we annex Canada last fall?
At least with the amp it should be fairly easy to track down, My money is on The selenium and maybe a supply cap. Im gonna get a lot of pictures up on my ftp space this time.
Gene
Hi Gene,
-Chris
Yes, but they didn't tell anyone. Then they forgot. Now we have tougher border control - a joke since the last place the US has to fear is Canada for crying out loud. It's more an economic warfare issue. 😉
Gene, use 'em or you will be throwing those out too.
-Chris
I just looked over at the audiokarma site and found a restoration thread for the McIntosh 240 like mine. It has some specifics but not exactly everything I will need to know/figure out.
I think I am going to set up a webpage on my step by step for this one. I have a good bit of file space left, and other may bennifit by it or at least learn what not to do 😀
I think I may do the same thing on the marantz 7 if I ever get over my defeat LOL
One thing nice is a couple of key restoration parts are available, The current inrush/thermistor, AES has suitable Can Caps.
Of course the Film caps will be tough, But if they need replaced, I think there are several good choices out there.
Gene
I think I am going to set up a webpage on my step by step for this one. I have a good bit of file space left, and other may bennifit by it or at least learn what not to do 😀
I think I may do the same thing on the marantz 7 if I ever get over my defeat LOL
One thing nice is a couple of key restoration parts are available, The current inrush/thermistor, AES has suitable Can Caps.
Of course the Film caps will be tough, But if they need replaced, I think there are several good choices out there.
Gene
You know,
You could post these on Ebay "as is", and see what you get (high reserve).
The paradox is that the restored versions, with nice modern comps, lose value.
So... off em... as is. If not, keep em for yourself, and to heck with the bumblebee caps and the related nonsense. Just an option.
You could post these on Ebay "as is", and see what you get (high reserve).
The paradox is that the restored versions, with nice modern comps, lose value.
So... off em... as is. If not, keep em for yourself, and to heck with the bumblebee caps and the related nonsense. Just an option.
Yeah,
Rebuild 'em... do 'em justice with nice new parts. OR, off 'em and let some other curmudgeon deal with the bumblebees...
I rebuilt a 1939 Zenith Radio for my sister... it looks original... turn the chassis over it's a whole 'nother story.
Rebuild 'em... do 'em justice with nice new parts. OR, off 'em and let some other curmudgeon deal with the bumblebees...
I rebuilt a 1939 Zenith Radio for my sister... it looks original... turn the chassis over it's a whole 'nother story.
Hi poobah,
Same here. I use new parts only and to heck with guys who want it to look original. Many guys use cheap ceramic caps for all the coupling caps. At least I'm using an axial cap even though it's plastic film.
-Chris
Same here. I use new parts only and to heck with guys who want it to look original. Many guys use cheap ceramic caps for all the coupling caps. At least I'm using an axial cap even though it's plastic film.
-Chris
Hey Poobah,
Couldn't agree more 😉
A "purist" would stroke out if he ever saw the underbelly of my 1959 Zenith TransOceanic
-Casey
Couldn't agree more 😉
A "purist" would stroke out if he ever saw the underbelly of my 1959 Zenith TransOceanic
-Casey
So, heres my plan
The Marantz 7 pre-amp I want to turn over, So I will just continue to occasionally replace/fix whatever part I need with the perspective original. If it takes a year, Oh Well, It will just go up in value even more 😀
The McIntosh however I plan to keep. It would be hard to build anything comparable for my tiny current investment. Granted they are also very collectable, putting it on ebay down the road is a possibility if I decide later to sell it. As long as the old parts are saved, And it is properly documented, It will still have some reasonable value, especially for someone looking for long term reliable service from the unit.
I started my online documentation page, I will add more as I go, keeping pictures, notes, and hopefully the whole thing will be useful for others.
Here is my crude page, It will of course evolve along the way.
My MC 240
Gene
The Marantz 7 pre-amp I want to turn over, So I will just continue to occasionally replace/fix whatever part I need with the perspective original. If it takes a year, Oh Well, It will just go up in value even more 😀
The McIntosh however I plan to keep. It would be hard to build anything comparable for my tiny current investment. Granted they are also very collectable, putting it on ebay down the road is a possibility if I decide later to sell it. As long as the old parts are saved, And it is properly documented, It will still have some reasonable value, especially for someone looking for long term reliable service from the unit.
I started my online documentation page, I will add more as I go, keeping pictures, notes, and hopefully the whole thing will be useful for others.
Here is my crude page, It will of course evolve along the way.
My MC 240
Gene
poobah said:
Not viewed from the same perspective as a collectible automobiles, or anything else for that matter. It makes a great deal of sense not to flip the parts. Would you pop a 350 motor and Jag suspension into a Cord to make it 'run better'? Those products are peaks of audio history. Ironically it's modifications driving the price of untampered units through the roof. Rather than 'upgrade' into something available today, spin them off whole and use the money elsewhere. You could probably build a better Mac-clone with Plitron (I seem to recall they offered a line of unity-coupled OPTs) or custom iron anyway and still pocket money at the end of the day.
Wow, now that I see the incredible condition of that Mac I really, really recommend thinking twice before cutting into it. A new production MC275 is $4000. I've seen mint working MC240s listed for the same. Check into used, recent MC275s and take your time is all I sez.
I agree with what your saying rdf,
A few points though, I have put modern engines in old bodies. Not because we were hacks; simply because the old engines were impossible to find. That is not to say that we didn't also make pistons, rings, valves, guides, springs, bearings etc.. just to save old engines.
We used to go so far as to put hydraulic brakes in old rigs; while at the same time preserving all the linkages for the mech. system to maintain the "look". Hell we even put disc brakes inside of old drums... not so easy. The purpose here was not so much about sacrelidge... or hotrodding... most people just can't stop a car with mechanical brakes... the last ten feet is the killer.
I guess I see similar parallels to old electronics. The rub is, NOS parts. So many of these parts have finite lives whether in use or not.
I wouldn't consider "hacking" this gear were my intentions to sell it. But, if it's a keeper, I would prefer the safety/sanity of new parts, just so could use the stuff without constant worry. I guess I am in the "stuff new caps in the old can" crowd.
🙂
A few points though, I have put modern engines in old bodies. Not because we were hacks; simply because the old engines were impossible to find. That is not to say that we didn't also make pistons, rings, valves, guides, springs, bearings etc.. just to save old engines.
We used to go so far as to put hydraulic brakes in old rigs; while at the same time preserving all the linkages for the mech. system to maintain the "look". Hell we even put disc brakes inside of old drums... not so easy. The purpose here was not so much about sacrelidge... or hotrodding... most people just can't stop a car with mechanical brakes... the last ten feet is the killer.
I guess I see similar parallels to old electronics. The rub is, NOS parts. So many of these parts have finite lives whether in use or not.
I wouldn't consider "hacking" this gear were my intentions to sell it. But, if it's a keeper, I would prefer the safety/sanity of new parts, just so could use the stuff without constant worry. I guess I am in the "stuff new caps in the old can" crowd.
🙂
I don't know the Marantz but do own a MC240 and have always regretted the hackery done as a young 'un, years before they skyrocketed in value. Don't get me wrong, it's your gear and entirely your call. Just be aware that some of these reasonable recommendations will remove thousands from the value of that unit so go into it with open eyes and weight your decisions carefully. Check twice, cut once. 😉
Hey poobah, I agree case by case. Drop a 350 into a Datsun 240Z, why not? My Mac is mildly rusty, scratched, and all the caps and carbons cut. Weighted against the cost of a ground-up restoration, why not swap parts now? But holy cow, Trout's amp looks like it's been collecting dust on the factory shelves. Another option, flip the mint unit, buy a 'beater' MC240 at 1/2 to 1/3 the price and go to town.
Hey poobah, I agree case by case. Drop a 350 into a Datsun 240Z, why not? My Mac is mildly rusty, scratched, and all the caps and carbons cut. Weighted against the cost of a ground-up restoration, why not swap parts now? But holy cow, Trout's amp looks like it's been collecting dust on the factory shelves. Another option, flip the mint unit, buy a 'beater' MC240 at 1/2 to 1/3 the price and go to town.
Well, Its clear that some componets will need changed, It did not blow the fuse immedianly. I did not get any red plate problem, I have not looked any further other than taking pictures.
I do have a much better schematic and all the reference voltages and reference resistances for this unit.
I would think getting rid of the Selenium bias rect is a gimme, The can caps are obtainable from AES. The mouser has a correct Thermistor for $2-$3.00.
Carbon comps are no problem to replace if needed, I have all of those needed.
But we get back to the possibility of coupling caps or other bumble bee caps and then its a bad deal. I see .022 listed on ebay $100.00 a pair!
Good luck finding good tested .22 or .47 vintage spragues.
The big question would be , Is it worth more as a non-working virgin, Or a reliably working repaired unit not exactly 100% original?
Tough call
Gene
I do have a much better schematic and all the reference voltages and reference resistances for this unit.
I would think getting rid of the Selenium bias rect is a gimme, The can caps are obtainable from AES. The mouser has a correct Thermistor for $2-$3.00.
Carbon comps are no problem to replace if needed, I have all of those needed.
But we get back to the possibility of coupling caps or other bumble bee caps and then its a bad deal. I see .022 listed on ebay $100.00 a pair!
Good luck finding good tested .22 or .47 vintage spragues.
The big question would be , Is it worth more as a non-working virgin, Or a reliably working repaired unit not exactly 100% original?
Tough call
Gene
Hi rdf,
Over the years I have rebuilt many 240's (my favorite sounding Mac amp). The simple reason is that the owners want to use the equipment and get good sound. Personally, I think it is irresponsible to use actual NOS capacitors. I did see one guy who split the original caps in half and replaced the innards with a new cap, and closed it back up. All the look and none of the problems. So, would you rather see a McIntosh with a dead transformer but NOS capacitors? Nothing wrong with a good rebuild. The value depends on the buyer.
A car is a completely different item. You can't even swap 350's because the engine # has to match the car.
-Chris
Over the years I have rebuilt many 240's (my favorite sounding Mac amp). The simple reason is that the owners want to use the equipment and get good sound. Personally, I think it is irresponsible to use actual NOS capacitors. I did see one guy who split the original caps in half and replaced the innards with a new cap, and closed it back up. All the look and none of the problems. So, would you rather see a McIntosh with a dead transformer but NOS capacitors? Nothing wrong with a good rebuild. The value depends on the buyer.
A car is a completely different item. You can't even swap 350's because the engine # has to match the car.
-Chris
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