I love the smell of voice coil in the morning...

This is nonsense. You can't see if voicecoils fail due to "to much power, to much amp's, clipping, clean or dirty power".
^^^^^that.
The reason all electronics fails is heat. Voice coil wire fails due to much peak power.
Not peak but RMS, by definition.
RMS power exactly refers to "thermal/heating" power.
Huge short peaks are not that bad, because some voice coils, specially cheesy car subwoofer types, have a lot of thermal mass and will integrate a short peak into a not-that-bad average, but continuous power will heat it up bit by bit until it overheats and fails.
Weakest link is adhesive, usually Epoxy, which way before actually burning loses a lot of mechanical strength, starts cracking first and then crumbling or flaking.
Wouldn´t be *that* bad, except that a voice coil + magnet is literally an electric motor, vibrating and pushing a heavy cone back and forth.
That huge mechanical force tends to crack adhesive and "disassemble" voice coil.
It can also bubble , not usually Epoxy itself but tiny air bubbles trapped in the adhesive or between coils when winding.
Which makes the coil itself overheat/burn. The assembly fails due to much continues power which heats the whole thing up and melts the glue.
Yes. Not actually *melt* because Epoxy is thermosetting, but above 130C to 180C most Epoxies become weak and brittle and then mechanical forces tear coil apart.
At higher temperatures, of course, it carbonizes and burns.

For comparison, wire enamel , Class F or H, the kind usef for winding electric motors so "stronger", both thermally and mechanically that "transformer grade" wire, is *guaranteed* full mechanical strength under great vibration and rotational speed (hint: electric *motor* insides) up to 165 or 185C .
FWIW I make my own Guitar speakers (which are abused by definition) and only use such wire, plus high temperature Industrial Epoxy.

IF wire enamel was improperly chosen , it may flake or chip off wire and stick to Epoxy, but tht is not very common.

Then comes former material:
* Paper : weakest of all, cellulose starts browning and cracking above (sustained) 100C but even at 90C it already dehydrates a lot and becomes rigid-but-easy-to-crack.

* Nomex: by itself it stands a lot of temperature, say 150C and evn 200C for some time, big defect is it´s "calendered", pressed between two highly polished HOT rollers. Very smooth surface but it traps a lot of air which easily bubbles when overheated. Bubbles are irreversible and scratch polepiece making speaker unusable.

* Kapton: won´t "burn" until above 400C but sadly melts and deforms at quite lower temperature, say 250 or 300C, depending also on mechanical stress.
It´s VERY common to see twisted wretched Kapton coils.

* Aluminum: no way to burn or melt it, all other VC elements will catastrophically fail way below that point.

The video is nonsense, and poster is making blanket assumptions based on "samples of one".

Voice coil does not know or care about amp nationality, that´s ridiculous.

The Brazilian amp charred that VC a lot, simply because it put out more watts (Volts and Amperes) into it than others, period.

"Holes in a VC former" come again from extreme heating, *some* point will fail before others; if anything it´s a VC problem , not amp brand or Country.

No, he can NOT tell which amplifier was used (or which Country it came from) just by looking at the VC.
Unless owner tells him, that is, which is what happened here.
 
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The smell is the enamel insulation on the wire or the glue holding it to the former off gassing or burning. Polyurethane is a common insulator for magnet wire. Epoxy is a common glue for bonding the magnet wire to a former, and for bonding turns of wires to each other so they don't unravel. Both polyurethane and epoxy are thermosetting polymers so they don't 'melt' per se, but above 100-200*C will soften and then burn. The more severely you burn the insulation on your coil wire, the more likely bits off insulation are to flake/chip off the wire, producing a short between 2 or more turns which will both affect the performance of the driver and potentially harm your amplifier by exposing it to an unusually low impedance. The more severely you burn the adhesive, the more likely turns of wire will come loose from the former, causing the wire to rub in the gap.

It is possible to get the coil hot enough to produce a faint smell (off-gassing of the polymers) without permanently damaging the insulation or glue, but a noticeable smell - especially a burning one - is not normal for any driver and continuing that type of abuse will definitely lead to a failed driver long term.


Sounds like a myth to me. The melting points of aluminium and copper are 660*C and 1083*C respectively, so by that point the polymers are most definitely completely burnt off by the heat and the coil will unravel inside the motor... therefore it makes no difference the type of metal used in the wire. One thing to note is that if the insulation is burnt off the wire, it may only generate a short intermittently while the coil is in motion and the turns vibrate together, so a static impedance measurement may not show a problem. The place where a speaker coil most commonly fails open circuit is where the coil is soldered to the tinsel leads as solder melts around 180-220*C - again a failure here may be intermittent with vibration.


Ok, thank you very much, I get it now.

So, bottomline, the bottleneck here in the whole design is the polymers (glue), not the metals (coil). So basically, the best solution to adress these problems would be to use the best and most advanced polymer that can withstand both high temp and repeated heat cycles (long term stability, so it doesnt crack or get weaker over time), am I right?

Frankly, what bugs me the most is not the outright possible failure, it's rather the ''cumulative'' thing, that can lead to sudden failure when the driver is not pushed hard...
 
Yes. Not actually *melt* because Epoxy is thermosetting, but above 130C to 180C most Epoxies become weak and brittle and then mechanical forces tear coil apart.
At higher temperatures, of course, it carbonizes and burns.

Ok thank you for the explanation, it makes sense to me.

So basically, the cumulative damage is directly related to the epoxy losing his original properties in a permanent way?
 
@JMFahey; Thx, for your additions and correction that epoxy burns instead of melts when it heats up and loses its strength.

What about a wire (voicecoil) failing, we don't agree.
If I say that the voicecoils will fail at a power peak and the higher the average (RMS) power is, the hotter the coil already is and it will fail at a lower power peak then when it would be cold(er), then we might agree. 🙂
 
@JMFahey; Thx, for your additions and correction that epoxy burns instead of melts when it heats up and loses its strength.

What about a wire (voicecoil) failing, we don't agree.
If I say that the voicecoils will fail at a power peak and the higher the average (RMS) power is, the hotter the coil already is and it will fail at a lower power peak then when it would be cold(er), then we might agree. 🙂

also, is the aluminum or copper REALLY need to reach the melting point for the V.C. to fail, structurally?
 
Weakest link is adhesive, usually Epoxy, which way before actually burning loses a lot of mechanical strength, starts cracking first and then crumbling or flaking.
I once drove a car whose rear-view mirror was glued to the windscreen, and it would fall off and I'd attach it with epoxy. On a hot day it would eventually soften and fall off again.
 
Oh? Just bought the vinyl 🙂

Didnt know that soundtrack was having ultra low frequencies... 16hz organ ?

but unfortunately, the 12pr320 even with the passive rad, it's not a driver to go much under 26-27hz... Limited xmax + 42hz Fs


42 hz is ok for most musics... not enough for movies ? I don't know, I'm not even sure with all those Dolby things than we can come close with a vynil or a simple compact disc !



The ref to the film was not about low hz but the loudspeakers that play loud to communicate with aliens... the famous momentwhen they play organ notes is apealing but nothings t see with the copters of Apocalypse Now 😀


want low bass : some rare organs comes lower than 16 hz : 4 hz to 8 hz ! so can not enter in the compact disc format and anyway you can just hear the harmonics...😱 .asking myself if not dangerous for the heart btw !
 
FWIW, I thought I read that the Ohm Walsh driver used aluminum wire insulated with an oxide and the VC temperature could operate at 400 C indefinitely w/o damage.

IF fact, lost technology?
True.
That oxide is actually heavy anodizing to ensure a thick layer.
And being "glass", it melts at a higher temperature than Aluminum itself (that´s one of the reasons it´s so difficult to solder aluminum, even with a blowtorch).

Insulating anodization is currently used when needed, not sure about the adhesive used though.