Smps
I have some switch mode supplys 6 v @ 100 amps you could put 2 of these in series would work ok
I have some switch mode supplys 6 v @ 100 amps you could put 2 of these in series would work ok
in my AMP MANUAL written is need :
~ 13.8V / 14.4V in 65A !! minimum !!!!!!
my amp is
200Wx4 (MAX) in 4 Ohm
100Wx4 (RMS) in 4 Ohm
400W Max x2 in 4 Ohm
200W RMS x2 in 4 Ohm
speaker impedance : 2~16 Ohms
total power 800W MAX
~ 13.8V / 14.4V in 65A !! minimum !!!!!!
my amp is
200Wx4 (MAX) in 4 Ohm
100Wx4 (RMS) in 4 Ohm
400W Max x2 in 4 Ohm
200W RMS x2 in 4 Ohm
speaker impedance : 2~16 Ohms
total power 800W MAX
beanz is correct, 40A power supply is enough to get a 800W (peak) amp working fully, switch mode power supplys have VERY good load regulation
When I got mine there were 3 PSUs connected in parallel via nasty big copper rails supplying 90 Amps.
Perhaps you can find one that does more than 30 amps? Have a look and see what you can find.
Perhaps you can find one that does more than 30 amps? Have a look and see what you can find.
DJ,
I have worked in the business. Trust me, car amp power ratings are way over stated. I know it says 800 watts on the amp, they are lying to you.
The simple fact is, you cannot get any more music power out of an amp than electrical power you put into it. A watt is a watt.
How can you tell how much power are you putting into your amp? Simple: multiply the size of the fuse by 12. If you have a 10 amp fuse, 12 volts X 10 amps = 120 watts. You have a 120 watt amp, and you need an 10 amp power supply.
If that was an 800 watt amp, you would need a 66 amp fuse. They do not make 66 amp fuses for cars.
So what is the size of the fuse? That is the size of power supply you need build.
This may not be what you want to hear, but that is reality.
Aud_Mot
I have worked in the business. Trust me, car amp power ratings are way over stated. I know it says 800 watts on the amp, they are lying to you.
The simple fact is, you cannot get any more music power out of an amp than electrical power you put into it. A watt is a watt.
How can you tell how much power are you putting into your amp? Simple: multiply the size of the fuse by 12. If you have a 10 amp fuse, 12 volts X 10 amps = 120 watts. You have a 120 watt amp, and you need an 10 amp power supply.
If that was an 800 watt amp, you would need a 66 amp fuse. They do not make 66 amp fuses for cars.
So what is the size of the fuse? That is the size of power supply you need build.
This may not be what you want to hear, but that is reality.
Aud_Mot
Aud_Mot said:
yes, indeed, I've seen inside a car amp that was said to deliver 200W with only one pair of tip142/147 (125W, 10A, 100V). safety margin is small you can say 😀
HB.
Aud_Mot said:
Agreed that car amplifier specs are almost universally total lies.... However, I will note that you can get 12V fuses (meant for car amplifiers) upto at least 120Amps so it would be possible but never in my life have I actually seen these used. I'm with you Beanz, Aud_Mot and HugoBross the specs are not worth a penny but i'd say build a power supply for double the fuse as you can exceed the fuse current for a short time without it blowing.
A way to go would be using a 10 - 15A El Cheapo battery charger buffered by a 35Ah or bigger car battery.
The battery will supply the inrush current and the peak consumption.
Given a 10 dB headroom for peaks you'll have an average power consumption of less than 20W per channel,so the supply will be sufficient and has the ability to recharge the battery.
😉
The battery will supply the inrush current and the peak consumption.
Given a 10 dB headroom for peaks you'll have an average power consumption of less than 20W per channel,so the supply will be sufficient and has the ability to recharge the battery.
😉
i have 2 speakers fuse 25A
and i have a big gold fuse 60A is connect to the (+)
i connect to the amp a 12V 85A car battery and i use in full power
in the amp and the amp LED (GREEN) is on ! and the sound is very good !!
and i connect to the amp a 12V 50A car battery and i use in full power in the amp and the amp LED (GREEN) is off! and the sound is ghastly...
and i check that the car battery is full !
and in my amp i have a 16 transistors MOSFET....
and i have a big gold fuse 60A is connect to the (+)
i connect to the amp a 12V 85A car battery and i use in full power
in the amp and the amp LED (GREEN) is on ! and the sound is very good !!
and i connect to the amp a 12V 50A car battery and i use in full power in the amp and the amp LED (GREEN) is off! and the sound is ghastly...
and i check that the car battery is full !
and in my amp i have a 16 transistors MOSFET....
DJ,
do you have a schematic of this amp??
What about disconnecting the 'psu/voltage mutiplier' inside the amp and use a normal toroid?? that sounds easier to me than making a 12V psu that can handle 60A!
HB.
do you have a schematic of this amp??
What about disconnecting the 'psu/voltage mutiplier' inside the amp and use a normal toroid?? that sounds easier to me than making a 12V psu that can handle 60A!
HB.
sorry i dont have schematic of the amp
and how disconnecting i voltage mutiplier' ??????
and what this voltage mutiplier' ????
you can explain to my how disconnecting i voltage mutiplier' in
picture or in circuit..... i want to do that !
and how disconnecting i voltage mutiplier' ??????
and what this voltage mutiplier' ????
you can explain to my how disconnecting i voltage mutiplier' in
picture or in circuit..... i want to do that !
not all car amps lie. I have some cheaper amps that do put out the power they claim, they are hifonics, but tehy do have corresponding large fuses too, one has a 40 amp fuse, the other has 2 25 amp fuses in parallel. The Class D sub amp now in my sister in laws car has 3 30 amp fuses in parallel.
All you need to do is listen to what people are saying, and match the power supply rating to the fuse rating of the amp.
BTW that 12v*10 amp = 120 watts is off pretty bad... it takes a lot more than the amps written on a fuse to blow it.
All you need to do is listen to what people are saying, and match the power supply rating to the fuse rating of the amp.
BTW that 12v*10 amp = 120 watts is off pretty bad... it takes a lot more than the amps written on a fuse to blow it.
DJ,
a car amp has an internal circuit to pull up the 12V of your car amp to a higher voltage, otherwise you can never drive a few hundreds watts. If you want to use your car amp at home you can delete this circuit and use a normal power supply that already supplies the higher voltage that is needed for the amplifier pcb. In this case you don't have to deal with those huge currents of 60A or more. Those transformers can be found anywhere without many problems.
I don't know the exact name of this circuit, maybe someone can help me...
I would like to help you, but it's quite difficult without a schematic, or pictures of the amp inside.
HB.
a car amp has an internal circuit to pull up the 12V of your car amp to a higher voltage, otherwise you can never drive a few hundreds watts. If you want to use your car amp at home you can delete this circuit and use a normal power supply that already supplies the higher voltage that is needed for the amplifier pcb. In this case you don't have to deal with those huge currents of 60A or more. Those transformers can be found anywhere without many problems.
I don't know the exact name of this circuit, maybe someone can help me...
I would like to help you, but it's quite difficult without a schematic, or pictures of the amp inside.
HB.
try to email the company that makes those amplifiers, their name must be written in the manual you've got. Then tell you're repairing that amp and give them the serial number, so that they believe you've bought that amp. Ask them for the schematic, mostly you receive the schematic real soon.
best regards,
HB.
best regards,
HB.
OK !!
but i dont fine the California boom USA site...
the California boom makes car amps and subwoofer
but i dont fine the California boom USA site...
the California boom makes car amps and subwoofer
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