I mean my PVC fishing dinghy. It's a pinhole. In the old days we just put on a 2" round patch. Sometimes it was self adhering like a bike patch but I think I like to use a patch with liquid for more secure chemical bonding. I am familiar with surface prep but I am wondering if there is a new and improved patching method or do I just buy a vinyl repair kit? I don't own a PVC welding gun.
Any help is welcome. TIA
Any help is welcome. TIA
I see patch kits on amazon that are specified for PVC boats. You could probably get one to try from crappy tire.
jeff
jeff
If the little doggy is a problem I wonder what hitting a stick in the water will do.
Or a fishing hook for that matter.
I have done shipping service work at Eagle Claw in Denver and have seen hook encrusted tires all over.
Or a fishing hook for that matter.
I have done shipping service work at Eagle Claw in Denver and have seen hook encrusted tires all over.
What's that spray? They make a 'boat' out of screen wire, spray this spray-glop on it, and paddle it over the pond. He also attacks a bucket with a chainsaw and seals it. They have a endcap in the Walmart checkout line. "As, repeatedly, Seen On TV".
Flex-Seal.
We got their FlexTape (probably more what you want for a simple prick). We've used it on a half dozen projects. None real satisfactory. It sticks to itself, and fingers, and nice tables, but not gutters or a rocking horse.
Flex-Seal.
Code:
https://youtu.be/httSHnNXN10?t=45
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZLAHGfznlY
https://youtu.be/pmoaE0HApFw?t=118We got their FlexTape (probably more what you want for a simple prick). We've used it on a half dozen projects. None real satisfactory. It sticks to itself, and fingers, and nice tables, but not gutters or a rocking horse.
Yes they have kits.
No, my little buddy didn't do it. It looks like it was a really pointy rock or something on the bottom.
I didn't own the dinghy till just recently. Haven't put it in the water yet.
Thanks but I can't bring myself to think about a product they sell on the shopping channel or at the county fair.
Last edited:
I am thinking the improvements they have made over the years are reflected in the products sold nowadays so I will head to my local store tomorrow and ask them as well.
Thanks for the help Gents. There's a reason I come here before heading to the store.
Cheers.
Thanks for the help Gents. There's a reason I come here before heading to the store.
Cheers.
Use a PVC solvent based adhesive, like those used for pipes, it is actually acrylic dissolved in chloroform.
I have used fiberglass woven tape (used in motor winding), and such adhesives for repair to flexible items.
A variant is 'Flexikwik', a Cyano acrylate specifically intended to be flexible, I have used it to seal holes in tires (nail puncture, if wires used in tire build get exposed to water, the tire will get damaged)_It was durable for some 40,000 km.
Simply roughen, put a small synthetic patch compatible with the adhesive, and see it adheres properly.
I have used fiberglass woven tape (used in motor winding), and such adhesives for repair to flexible items.
A variant is 'Flexikwik', a Cyano acrylate specifically intended to be flexible, I have used it to seal holes in tires (nail puncture, if wires used in tire build get exposed to water, the tire will get damaged)_It was durable for some 40,000 km.
Simply roughen, put a small synthetic patch compatible with the adhesive, and see it adheres properly.
Last edited:
Make a patch out of a piece of another PVC boat or similar item, spread on some regular PVC glue, and weight it with a transformer till it cures. Or clamp between a pair of wood blocks. For larger holes put the patch on the inside and oversize it so it doesn’t run out from under the patch and glue the topside to the bottom side. In either case, weighting or clamping will ensure a proper bond and that it won’t peel off. This method works even if the problem is at one of the seams - sometimes the case when taking one out of storage.
Usually it is a two part process, first a cleaner/prep coat is applied to both surfaces, then the adhesive.
Seeing as it has been used, the prep coat is probably the secret to a good seal.
Seeing as it has been used, the prep coat is probably the secret to a good seal.
PVC glue will not permanently bond to wood or transformer iron, which is why they are suggested. Both are known to work, and one or the other is likely to be found somewhere in the shop. The only surface prep needed is that the item to be repaired and the patch are clean. You don’t need to use the purple stuff you usually use with PVC pipe - just the clear cement.
It's been years since I've dealt with an inflatable, but at the sailing school we used repair kits from West Marine. They were a Zodiac and Avon dealer at the time (maybe still are???), so they carried the "recommended" repair kits. I don't remember ever having a patch fail, but after about 10 years the fabric started to deteriorate pretty bad from UV exposure.
The adhesive was applied to both surfaces and allowed to "dry" (tack up). Once those two surfaces were pressed together, it would take an act of congress to get them apart. The process was not all that different to veneering with contact cement.
The adhesive was applied to both surfaces and allowed to "dry" (tack up). Once those two surfaces were pressed together, it would take an act of congress to get them apart. The process was not all that different to veneering with contact cement.
Here is one thing I do NOT recommend on the rubber ducky - a propane torch. 
But it worked a treat to fix my kayak. Just used the same kind of plastic from a milk jug and heated each to a slightly liquid surface and stuck them together. Instant study patch. That would be a little rough on PVC, tho.
But it worked a treat to fix my kayak. Just used the same kind of plastic from a milk jug and heated each to a slightly liquid surface and stuck them together. Instant study patch. That would be a little rough on PVC, tho.
I think the owner might not like that.
Not possible. This ducky is made of five separate chambers.
Yes, I have done that type in the past
A PVC welder is a glorified heat gun, no flame.
We now have two votes for this one. I will look into it.
Thanks to all for your input.
Depends on the PVC used, if rigid you can get away with a couple different techniques and glue, but the more flexible types, from my experience polyurethane based adhesive works best (in your case you may want to consider UV resistance).In any case trick is to use glue with under 1/4 surface tension of what you want to repair.
Thanks for the response.
This is a boat so think of it as flexible, like a roofing membrane.
Not important. The hole is on the bottom and the boat is deflated and stored between uses. Store bought patch kits are similar in nature.
Do you mean have it partly inflated when patching? I was thinking about that and was planning to have it inflated but not fully. Is that a good idea?
No, was thinking more about the glue’s ability to stick to the surface, especially over time. Make sure you choose something (when dry) that is much “softer” than the PVC of the boat. Ideally you’d want to have a ratio of surface tension 1:4 glue vs surface being glued.
No need for exact numbers, but I find it a good “rule” to keep in mind when sticking stuff to each other