i do it too.

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ya know,i wasent going to post any pics of my speakers after seeing what "i do it" woodwork came out like. then i thought,,,............well you can guess what i thought,here is a pic. its the speaker that the plan came in the box with the driver. so thats the one i made,they are breaking in behind me at this moment.

i hope the pics will post .we shall see.

roy

oh wait,how big can they be?? ill have to go n check.
ill ask the wife to show me how to make the pix smaller,im shure they are to big.
 
pic??

did this work?
 

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i didnt have felt for the inside

but i thought this would break up the standing waves you guys talk about. and maybe muffle some sound as well. if after 200 hours or so,they suck bad,ill pull the driver,and glue in some thick felt as mentioned in the directions.

roy
 

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any idea where i can post the rest of the pictures?

the wife has a website,but i have no idea how to work it. maybe one of them free sites??

the last pic for now.
i might ad,the cutting is not to good.i blame myself,though my stepson cut it out for me. i built them on the kitchen table in about 4 days. i didnt want to finish them untill i knew how they were going to sound.if they sound decent when broken in,il paint them. if they sound great,ill do somthing better with them,no idea what yet. they sound ok now,though no way what id call "hi fi",and im no expert either.about as good as a cheap sterio youd get for the kids first one for their bedrooms or somthing. not real fine sounding,but nothing bad about it either yet,,,,,that my ears can pick up.counting the hours untill 200,,,,next wed.
 

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the cabinet to the stand

i tried to line them up,then screw them together with glue,but for some reason,i couldnt get it right. so with gorilla glue,i fixed them as is with a prayer they will hold up.
the news paper is to keep the glue off the post and catch the drips.
 

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packing pea nuts sighhhh

ok,i never read anything about this working. but i used my head and it will probably have to be replaced with the 1/2" felt. if thats the case,oh well i tried. ill break them in for the guestamated 200 hours,and then start listening carefully for better sound,if its missing anything at all,ill probably put the felt in. they are listenable now though,not like some ive read about that were compleatly unbearable ,horrible even to the ears. these arent that bad after 3 days. of course my ears arent as "tuned" like im guessing many of yours are to quality and proper sound reproduction. so as with the rest of this project,ill just wing it,and see where it takes me.
 

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Hi Roy.
I know you don't have all the resources that others do so I salute you for at least taking the initiative and building your own speakers. You've already done more than most people do. I suggest losing the "peanuts" as you've apparently realized already. Using foam or felt is not going to do anything for standing waves. What it will do is absorb some of the higher frequency reflections inside the cabinet. This can be beneficial and can be accomplished by just placing some behind and above the driver. That's all you need.
Have you looked at Nelson Pass' website concerning single driver speaker systems? I don't know what kind of amplifier you have but Nelson's experiments may have some benefit for you.
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/firstwatt/firstwatt.html
 
hey tim,

ill read that page you recomend. i have to say,if the styrofoam cuts the highs,my ears will bleed if i take them out. hahaha

it truley dosent sound bad at present,day 3or 4 of listening. the reciever is a 1992 kenwood dolby prologic 100 wat per stereo,80 X5 channels. or so they say....the only reason i upgraded to the pioneer is i thought the kenwood was blown,well when i got the pioneer vsx 55 txi home,a few weeks went by and for some reason i tried the kenwood again,well i noticed the speaker wires i used for it had a short .......so, to make a long story,,,,it was fine and is fine still,and i got a new reciever out of the deal that i didnt need. the pioneer is nice,nicer than my stuff will ever take advantage of at least. i read somewhere the amps in it are very nice though.

a pic of the kenwood follows.

somthing funny: the drivers in the pic got all nice and broke in,then they became the ones i didnt use first. they are the 127's.hahaha. i used the 167's for the speakers i made.
 

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just an update.

they still arent finneshed and the "peanuts" are still inside. i like them alot. i moved them into the living room(theater?)after my old reciever blew up in here. they are replacing some polk audios. hmmmm,the system i got was the rm2700 i think. but i got the larger sub(woofer) . these are way better and much more sensative. but i have a pioneer reciever with a mic and some set up thingie. its all automatic.. im more than happy with them.alone(not in 5ch) with the sub,i think they are nearly the best ive ever owned. i now understand what you guys mean when you say we buy speaks for 500 or 1000$ and they are realy 80$ in parts and nice box's. sheesh what a rip off.(like you guys dont know that.)

so im liking them,and now that they are in the living room,i guess ill have to do somthing to make them look better.
i was wondering if i coat them with 2part epoxy,would that stiffen them enough to amke it worth while? does any one know?i guess i could even toss in some fiberglass as well if thet would do anything. they are just made of 3/4" particle board,not the best from what ive been able to find info about. i am thinking about a "sock" all balled up lighlty stuffed into the ports just to see what it might sound l;ike. ive read others doing that,though i forget why they tried it .

i have two 127fostex and if possible,id like to put them into one box as a center channel. but ive been reading,,and that dosent seem like a very good idea. if its not a horrible idea,can anyone give me a ballpark idea as to the size/shape id need to do that?
it seems ill never design my own speaks,,the math is way to hard for me. but i see no reason not to build nice speaks acording to the tried recipie of others. 🙂

later folks,
roy
 
Hi Roy,

the stuffing material you used should help somewhat with flattering echoes in higher frequency regions. But it's not permeable to air, so it doesn't help much with standing waves. More important is that you fill the inside lightly with some soft material that lets air through, like loose wool, for instance. The cabinet should make no sound, when you 'sing' a bit into it, like a pillow... you know 🙂 BTW a soft pillow could be it.

They are closed boxes, right? If not a path from the driver to the resonator (port) should be stuffing free. If the sound seems a little bit unrelaxed, maybe an LCR network could help. And some time to break in.

Regards,
theduke
 
not closed box

the box sits on top of a 4 sided "post" thats hollow. then the box has a hole in the bottom,and the post has a hole/port 4" down from where the box sits on top. so the air goes from behind the driver down through the hold in the bottom of the box,through the stand,and out the port in the speaker stand. but its all made in one piece.the stand is glued to the bottom of the speaker box. i looked for a pic,,but dont have any,,pc was reloaded,and i lost a bit of stuff. but i think the pic is on the 167fostex website.

i dont notice anything i dont like about the sound,but im not against trying a few things just to see what might happen.

thanks,
roy
oh,the line from the box to the port hole in the stand,is free from stuffling(peanuts). i just glued them to the wall of the box.
 
I seem to remember something on melhuish.org, perhaps the Hammer Dynamics Super 12, that was stuffed to over half full with foam packing peanuts. Does anyone else remember that? The description said that until the peanuts had a few days to settle with loud music, a large bass note could cause peanuts to fly out the port. :clown:
 
So absolutely no stuffing between the port and the driver? How much stuffing can i add? I built some really nice particle board boxes, the main cavity has two layers of 3/4 inch on all sides but, i built then just a hair small. Will stuffing them help that situation out?

I really liked the idea of using the base as the port.

And in conclusion, happy DIYing!
 
There should be near to zero material between driver and port, so the most energy can be coupled to the port, stimulating it's resonance. Of course a bit of tuning can take place here. BTW if dampening material is not fixated in some way, the vibrating material, depending on it's mass, absorbes (bass) energy and is less effective in dampening resonances.

Stuffing material reduces (standing) waves by transforming energy of moving air into heat at the velocity maximum of a wave, so it is most effective in the middle of a box. With ported ones, a compromise has to be found.

Roy, glass fibre coating is counterproductive normally. MDF and PB work well -- high mass, slow speed of sound transmission -> low Q of resonances.

tade said:
I built some really nice particle board boxes, the main cavity has two layers of 3/4 inch on all sides but, i built then just a hair small.

Sorry, what does that mean?
 
sorry, what does that mean:

Sorry, ill describe a bit better. I didnt want to fool around with internal bracing so i built nice strong boxes, and then put another layer of particle board on all sides. Just glued and clamped. They are very beefy and satisfying. You can bounce a screwdriver on them no problem, they may in fact be stronger than the cinderblock walls of my dorm. well, maybe better damped. It is neat to see these little four inch drivers in such large boxes. makes the box seem like a driver life support system, which i guess is quite accurate.
 
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