Not at all, just having more and safer ways to test is good. I can do that - the Omega is resistance in ohms, what's the triangle with a line again? And, what am I looking for?
thanks.
thanks.
Just describe the best you can what your meter is doing.
And let us know what setting you have it on.
And let us know what setting you have it on.
OK, here goes. I assume the triangle is for Farads?
My meter is an auto-sensing one, so I picked the omega/triangle/whatever setting (resistance, inductance, capacitance?). It starts at 0f and when I touch the probes to the + and - of the amp it jumps to 4.40 (no units), cycles down to 2.25 or so, goes blank (----), then starts at 0.7 and slowly goes up to 1.8 or so. At least that's when i gave up. It was going up more and more slowly like it was converging on something.
If needed I can theoretically set it manually to use whatever setting, but I think this was ohms since farads started at 0f.
My meter is an auto-sensing one, so I picked the omega/triangle/whatever setting (resistance, inductance, capacitance?). It starts at 0f and when I touch the probes to the + and - of the amp it jumps to 4.40 (no units), cycles down to 2.25 or so, goes blank (----), then starts at 0.7 and slowly goes up to 1.8 or so. At least that's when i gave up. It was going up more and more slowly like it was converging on something.
If needed I can theoretically set it manually to use whatever setting, but I think this was ohms since farads started at 0f.
Sorry man, the Toddler is puking up a storm and I couldn't get to the battery store. I'm going to call my dealership tomorrow and check the pro-rated price as well as give them some symptoms.
GhettoSQ said:
OK, first thing to do is check the meter and see if the auto sense function works. Best way I know is place it on the driveway and drive the car wheel over it. If it is working properly there should be an indication of this event on the display. Look for broken crushed plastic and tire marks. I'm not actually joking here. Those auto sense meters are totally useless for any electrical test I've ever tried to do with one.
Get yourself a 'normal' digital multimeter. Then you will be able to get meter readings that make sense and have a chance at fixing stuff.
Nuke the site from orbit.
It is the only way you will be sure.
Me in the same situation as you, I believe I would return everything to the way it was before install and get the vehicle running reliably before I went any further.
It is the only way you will be sure.
Me in the same situation as you, I believe I would return everything to the way it was before install and get the vehicle running reliably before I went any further.
Sorry for the delay,got kids too.
Ok,well from the description it seems like the setting your using on your meter is correct for the test (Diode).From your description of your testing it seems that you didnt damage the reverse voltage protection device in the amp (diode). With your meter starting with a value and decreasing,then zeroing out and reading again.Means that the Input Caps are charging.If there was damage from the reverse voltage device (diode) your meter wound display "0000" and maybe beep.
Best thing to do now is to bench check the amp. To see if it powers up.
All you need is one ground wire and one positive wire
Jump remote from positiver wire
Hit me back with the results!
Ok,well from the description it seems like the setting your using on your meter is correct for the test (Diode).From your description of your testing it seems that you didnt damage the reverse voltage protection device in the amp (diode). With your meter starting with a value and decreasing,then zeroing out and reading again.Means that the Input Caps are charging.If there was damage from the reverse voltage device (diode) your meter wound display "0000" and maybe beep.
Best thing to do now is to bench check the amp. To see if it powers up.
All you need is one ground wire and one positive wire
Jump remote from positiver wire
Hit me back with the results!
IT WORKS!!!
Thanks all for the help. I jumpered the remote after installing a new battery (a whole other drama) and the green light came on, so I hooked up my subs. WOW! Now on to my front speakers and finding a good remote tap. I am using the PAC OEM1 and although it comes with a remote wire, I don't believe in the Ford config it's hooked up to anything. I've got to pull the stereo out for the speaker wiring anyway, so that's next.
Thanks again! I guess the biggest problem was the battery being drained; Every time I'd try to draw current from it it would give up.
Thanks all for the help. I jumpered the remote after installing a new battery (a whole other drama) and the green light came on, so I hooked up my subs. WOW! Now on to my front speakers and finding a good remote tap. I am using the PAC OEM1 and although it comes with a remote wire, I don't believe in the Ford config it's hooked up to anything. I've got to pull the stereo out for the speaker wiring anyway, so that's next.
Thanks again! I guess the biggest problem was the battery being drained; Every time I'd try to draw current from it it would give up.
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