I added these parameters to WinISD, is this correct?

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Hi, when you say you want to build some studio monitors, what do you mean. Do you plan to mix music on them. If so you really need to take measurements and design a crossover that will give you a flat un coloured response. This is a significant amount of work and will almost certainly require several iterations.

If you just want to make some cheap speakers to play back instruments then you approach will create a speaker that will play back sound but it is very unlikely to be flat.

For a monitor speaker if you haven't designed a speaker befor I would recommend finding a design that some one has already done. You can then learn from their design and end up with a speaker that will be suitable for your application.

Zaph creates very nutral designs that would probably be suitable for monitoring.
He also gives a good description of the design decisions so you can learn.


I see, well ill make some computer speakers then, thanks. One more question, so you think the box dimensions are right for best performance? The vent windows shows for a 2" diameter port tube a 3.4" tall/long tube? Im planing on putting a rear port behind the tweeter. Is that ok? ITs my first time using WinISD
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Hi Win ISD is not a bad simulator so assuming the values you put in are correct you should get something quite close to the simulation. Driver parameters are not very stable anyway, they typically vary 10% with temperature and the variation between parts can be quite high as well especially with lower cost parts. So I wouldn't get too hung up on the exact dimensions.

For the port, again the simulator is usually quite good. Putting it behind the bass driver will give you the highest Q and hence maximum output, however you will likely get some mid range leakage. Behind the tweeter should give you almost as much output so long as you don't stuff wadding in the way. Ported enclosures are best lined with foam to absorb some of the internal energy and reduce any resonance. You could put a bit of wadding behind the tweeter to reduce HF from the back of the tweeter getting out the port but try not to get it in the path from the back of the woofer to the port.


At the level you are trying to achieve the box should work well
Hi thanks for your responses, i decided to locate the port behind the tweeter, use a port diameter of 1.5" and 3.5" long/tall, put a little of foam inside like an U, blocking right/bottom/left interior sides, and glue some wadding to the magnet of the tweeter. Is that ok?
Hi that should be fine. You can always modify the cabinet foam and wading by removing the bass driver.

The more foam and wadding you have the more sound will be absorbed so if you find the cabinet sounds "honky" you can add some more. Also since the speed of sound in foam and wadding is slower then in air it also slightly increases the apparent size of the box as it takes longer for the sound wave to hit the sides of the box so you can make minor tuning modifications ths way.

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