Non Active Loudspeaker, traditional Passive Crossover which requires more energy from an amplifier
I believe once you go Active, the amplifier/s plays far less of a role...then you are more dependant on the quality of your Active Crossover for ultimate fidelity
I believe once you go Active, the amplifier/s plays far less of a role...then you are more dependant on the quality of your Active Crossover for ultimate fidelity
Sound of untwisted NC400 output cable?
I recently bought a fellow DIY'ers NC400 stereo build which is very nicely made other than it hasn't followed the Hypex recommended twisting of cables to the binging posts...
Before I get around to twisting them as perfectly as possible, what kind of sound change could I expect to hear? Or is it a case of theory on paper versus practical reality?
I imagine all will depend on casing, environment but can anyone hazzard a guess?
I recently bought a fellow DIY'ers NC400 stereo build which is very nicely made other than it hasn't followed the Hypex recommended twisting of cables to the binging posts...
Before I get around to twisting them as perfectly as possible, what kind of sound change could I expect to hear? Or is it a case of theory on paper versus practical reality?
I imagine all will depend on casing, environment but can anyone hazzard a guess?
I believe it's about common mode (mains hum around 50hz) rejection
You may not have an issue with this... I've seen people bandage the mains core cables and other cables in braid instead (shield)
You may not have an issue with this... I've seen people bandage the mains core cables and other cables in braid instead (shield)
Mains hum is only an issue if you run the cables next to mains leads. The more likely effect of lack of twisting is wideband noise and possibly also high frequency oscillation. Easy to check with a fast oscilloscope.
So speaker cables?
The casing won't solve the problem completely, as the twisting also helps prevent noise pickup and feedback from other parts of the circuit.
Hi 3lviz,
I suppose from the above that you have access to a REF600M...
For our information, would you mind opening the box and checking for us the reference of the OpAmp used by BelCanto ?
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A good choice I am the proud owner of serial no. 1001, you will not regret your choice. I will be receiving my uprated buffers soon.
Its a Switchcraft D3F High quality but they have solder buckets they are all hidden under two lots of heat shrink!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The case has metal dividers separating PSUs from the NC400s with a centre channel where the mains wires travel down - so I suspect I won't be suffering any 50hz interference that I'll notice.
To be pedantic, not speaker cables as they're just wires (cables inplying a something a lot thicker and constructed), but yes output wires to the speaker binding posts.
About the HF oscillation: That was my question really! Is it just a technicallity viewable on an oscilloscope that agrees with theory but is inaudible or will I be able to hear a difference (the practical reality part)?
I *guess* I'll be making the change for the sheer sake of it but I won't be going back and forth A/Bing the change - so I was hoping someone might be able to point out a sonic difference I can listen out for.
One thing I hate in life is acting out of conformity due to fear of the unknown/fear of making a mistake, or indeed superstition. If there is no difference to be heard then not twisting the wires is a good practice in breaking those controlling mental conditions 🙂
Or should I have fear for damaging tweeters in the long term instead (and allow myself to be controlled by that one)?
Curiously, are the nCore true Balanced designs? Howcome the earth pin XLR is not connected/wired as per picture above? Or is it wired at the Buffer only?
Thanks ��
Thanks ��
No. They have a true differential input stage - but that is a different thing.
Are we talking about neutral, earth or ground?
Indeed - 50 Hz hum is not the issue.
Hard to predict what the audible effects of HF oscillation will be in each case - it might imply higher distortion, noise and definitely additional heat dissipation and power consumption, but clearly audible effects is another matter.
Any oscillation is *probably* too high in frequency to damage the tweeters - but don't quote me on that if they get damaged. 🙂
I shall put it on my insurance claim: "Julf advised that... " 🙂
Thanks for the reply - I'll likely rewire them anyway and just keep my ears open for changes. I'm too curious now to not to..
Terrific amps though - these are my first hearing of some and moving from an unusual integrated amp from a company called "Higher Fidelity" they are an improvement in detail, top end openness and also subtly deeper low bass coming from my Acoustic Energy Reference 2s (the recent ones).
Thanks for the reply - I'll likely rewire them anyway and just keep my ears open for changes. I'm too curious now to not to..
Terrific amps though - these are my first hearing of some and moving from an unusual integrated amp from a company called "Higher Fidelity" they are an improvement in detail, top end openness and also subtly deeper low bass coming from my Acoustic Energy Reference 2s (the recent ones).
The third pin, is it not meant to be connected to the braid/shield? Or is it connected inside that Molex type connector on the Input Buffer side to the braid?
Just curious... one reads about Quasi-Balanced and Fully Balanced, supposedly being the best?
If you are talking about XLR pin 1 it is meant to be connected to chassis (in turn connected to safety earth). Many XLR have this connection within the connector. Browse Neutrik's website to see what I mean.
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