The simple rule is that if you use your A/C unit in January then the VR goes on top of attic insulation. If you use your heater in January then the VR is underneath it.I It should always be situated on the warm side of the insulation.
EDIT: This applies to most of the northern hemisphere. Substitute January with your coldest month.
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As a former Louisiana resident (Until I was 16), I can say you may run the heat around Christmas time though I have also used the attic fan.
How old is the house and rough location? I think there were some older acoustic tiles that could have some asbestos. I have seen the tiles hung in one case meaning you would want to remove them and replace with drywall.
I have also seen them attached to an older wallboard that came before what we know as drywall.
How old is the house and rough location? I think there were some older acoustic tiles that could have some asbestos. I have seen the tiles hung in one case meaning you would want to remove them and replace with drywall.
I have also seen them attached to an older wallboard that came before what we know as drywall.
I believe just the slats they are connected to. I honestly don't know. I'd have to dig around in the insulation to find out.
Those appear to be standard 12 x 12 acoustical ceiling tiles, they're readily available from both Lowes and Home Depot. They all seem to be made by Armstrong.
My new porch will have them, and my man cave and mudroom have them. (Mudroom new, man cave tiles old and somewhat decrepit.)
The furring strips for mounting are already there in your ceiling I would expect and the old ones can just be pulled down and replaced.
Most contractors just refer to them as 12 x 12 ceiling tiles and not acoustical ceiling tiles. (In fact they may not know what you mean)
My new porch will have them, and my man cave and mudroom have them. (Mudroom new, man cave tiles old and somewhat decrepit.)
The furring strips for mounting are already there in your ceiling I would expect and the old ones can just be pulled down and replaced.
Most contractors just refer to them as 12 x 12 ceiling tiles and not acoustical ceiling tiles. (In fact they may not know what you mean)
My last question might have been worded:
If you're pulling down tiles, and you have only the lathe work and there's no VR under it, what is stopping the blown-in from coming down? Sound like quite a mess. Wouldn't you be better off going over the existing tiles with the new? Are there any ceiling fixture preventing you from doing this?
Kevin: Acoustic tile is a very common term in these parts. Some of ours are mineral fiber or compressed fiberglass, and some are treated cellulose. Some are textured but many are holey. The stick ons are often 12x12 but the drop type are 24x24 or 24x48.
If you're pulling down tiles, and you have only the lathe work and there's no VR under it, what is stopping the blown-in from coming down? Sound like quite a mess. Wouldn't you be better off going over the existing tiles with the new? Are there any ceiling fixture preventing you from doing this?
Kevin: Acoustic tile is a very common term in these parts. Some of ours are mineral fiber or compressed fiberglass, and some are treated cellulose. Some are textured but many are holey. The stick ons are often 12x12 but the drop type are 24x24 or 24x48.
The 12x12 tiles were common in houses built in the 50s-60s. The surface mount type usually have beveled edges.
So, what is everyone's consensus so far?
Options:
1. Drywall over current tiles
Pros: Easiest, cheapest, and least messy.
Cons: May be an issue if I ever need to tear out both. May be more reflective a sound. Heavier ceiling.
2. Remove current tiles and install new tiles
Pros: May be better acoustically
Cons: Not a current look. Harder to source. Tedious and messy tear down and install. Probably costs more. If it is acoustically friendly, probably not energy efficient with ac.
Are these surface mount tiles worth the hassle in the name of acoustics? If they are, I would go through the trouble. I doubt it though.
Options:
1. Drywall over current tiles
Pros: Easiest, cheapest, and least messy.
Cons: May be an issue if I ever need to tear out both. May be more reflective a sound. Heavier ceiling.
2. Remove current tiles and install new tiles
Pros: May be better acoustically
Cons: Not a current look. Harder to source. Tedious and messy tear down and install. Probably costs more. If it is acoustically friendly, probably not energy efficient with ac.
Are these surface mount tiles worth the hassle in the name of acoustics? If they are, I would go through the trouble. I doubt it though.
Here in New England they are often installed on wood trusses to which they are secured with staples.
You wouldn't want to cover them because presumably they're soggy, and in FLA and even here in MA that can mean a wicked bad case of black mold growing in the tiles.
If you have blown in insulation hopefully there is something between it and the tiles like drywall - which if it got very wet should be replaced as well.
A reputable contractor should be able to handle the entire job including any messes from blown in insulation.
You wouldn't want to cover them because presumably they're soggy, and in FLA and even here in MA that can mean a wicked bad case of black mold growing in the tiles.
If you have blown in insulation hopefully there is something between it and the tiles like drywall - which if it got very wet should be replaced as well.
A reputable contractor should be able to handle the entire job including any messes from blown in insulation.
I was holding back the paper layer. It's under the bottom layer of lain insulation.
The black you see is probably the flashlight I'm holding.
The black you see is probably the flashlight I'm holding.
If you follow the slat of wood up towards the top of the photo and look to the right you can see the seam wet ween tiles. When I tapped on the tiles, they sounded like mineral fiber vs mdf tiles.
I'm guessing that these are better for room acoustics than drywall but not the best for ac efficiency.
I'm guessing that these are better for room acoustics than drywall but not the best for ac efficiency.
It looks like it all got wet - I have blown in insulation in my attic, and walls - it should be pretty fluffy. I would recommend you replace it all unless you want sick building syndrome. Not too big a deal if you address it now.
If the insurance will cover it (or even if they don’t) the proper way would be to remove everything including the wet insulation and start over. In the mean time decide what you want to put back. I would sheetrock it, that gives the option to tile it afterwards if the sound wasn’t right.
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