Hey this is my first post here. I have posted elsewhere before about these.
A bit of history. I refoamed the original marsland drivers. 2 came back bad and 1 had a different basket. Plus I tracked down 2 phillips tweets. I did listen to one of the good assembled speakers and it was awfull sounding (speaker was wired for 1.2 ohm also). Originally I was playing a guessing game and ordered a bunch of random parts to redue the speakers. Tried to make a crossover out of random parts. It didn't work out.
Normally I would just refoam and recap. So after a rather huge learning experience. I came here for questions resolved and this time listen to the comments. Not to go random and hope it works this time.
For one I got to get a cheap frequency analyzer from parts express or else where.
Specs of what I got till fill.
-6.5 x 2 mid driver 1.2 cubic feet
-12 woofer 3 cubic feet
Questions
-what speaker drivers pair well with phillips ad 163 / t8
- marsland is still around and called mcbride should I just order modern equivalent?
- can you guys maybe point me in the direction of some good drivers. I do intend to keep the tweets.
A bit of history. I refoamed the original marsland drivers. 2 came back bad and 1 had a different basket. Plus I tracked down 2 phillips tweets. I did listen to one of the good assembled speakers and it was awfull sounding (speaker was wired for 1.2 ohm also). Originally I was playing a guessing game and ordered a bunch of random parts to redue the speakers. Tried to make a crossover out of random parts. It didn't work out.
Normally I would just refoam and recap. So after a rather huge learning experience. I came here for questions resolved and this time listen to the comments. Not to go random and hope it works this time.
For one I got to get a cheap frequency analyzer from parts express or else where.
Specs of what I got till fill.
-6.5 x 2 mid driver 1.2 cubic feet
-12 woofer 3 cubic feet
Questions
-what speaker drivers pair well with phillips ad 163 / t8
- marsland is still around and called mcbride should I just order modern equivalent?
- can you guys maybe point me in the direction of some good drivers. I do intend to keep the tweets.
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This is pretty much the hardest possible thing for a newbie to do I'm afraid.
You are going to be much better off learning to make your own 2 way, buying a kit, etc.
But no one ever listens to this advice. 🙂
Best of luck,
E
You are going to be much better off learning to make your own 2 way, buying a kit, etc.
But no one ever listens to this advice. 🙂
Best of luck,
E
I'm more of a rebuild vintage speaker using correct factory parts kind of guy. Or if I did build build a speaker it would a kit.
My plan was to build a huge 4 cubic feet bookshelf. As bookshelf speakers are a newbie project. Plan was to do a 2 way bookshelf out of the top and make the 2 bottom 12inch woofers 300hz and below.
Speaker efficiency is main concern
-92 tweeters
-88.3 mid woofers
-84 woofers
Was going run woofers in parrallel to bring sensitivity up to 87? And chop tweeters in with a resistor. Not enough ohms then
My plan was to build a huge 4 cubic feet bookshelf. As bookshelf speakers are a newbie project. Plan was to do a 2 way bookshelf out of the top and make the 2 bottom 12inch woofers 300hz and below.
Speaker efficiency is main concern
-92 tweeters
-88.3 mid woofers
-84 woofers
Was going run woofers in parrallel to bring sensitivity up to 87? And chop tweeters in with a resistor. Not enough ohms then
Hi Audi0phile,
One of those tweeters looks like a Philips AD0162T(4/8/15), and the others look like AD0163T(4/8/15). The 6 1/2" drivers are not Linear B and would be a purely McBride type of driver, not Leigh Engineering. Same goes for those woofers.
Audio Control used to make a fairly crude analyser that displayed on an LED display. It came with calibrated microphones and would generate the frequency sweep. So that would represent the least expensive way to do what you need to do. Make certain you get the Audio Control unit (SA-5010? something like that) with the calibrated Audio Control microphone. That will give you fast readings.
There are software analysers you can use with a less expensive calibrated microphone and a sound card. I haven't played with that idea, but it might be a lot better than the used Audio Control device. That means you need a computer with a sound card where you will be running your test. Do this at night when outside noises are at a minimum.
Solen has far better tweeters than that. I should know, and I still have a set of AD80100W8 and AD0163T8 in a pair of prototype boxes I used to sell. The tweeters were great in their day, but today Peerless and Vifa have much better units. Your choice, but they may not design your crossovers without using their tweeters. I'm not sure about that. Anyway, those will be great on a work bench, 2 way system. I'm also sure someone would buy them from you as well. Why not go all the way and build a really, really nice pair of speakers? I use mostly Peerless these days.
-Chris
One of those tweeters looks like a Philips AD0162T(4/8/15), and the others look like AD0163T(4/8/15). The 6 1/2" drivers are not Linear B and would be a purely McBride type of driver, not Leigh Engineering. Same goes for those woofers.
Don't bother doing that. What you do need is a good bench meter that reads in dB. The older HP meters (34401A) have a dB scale and are good to 300KHz. Most meters out there are in trouble by 400 Hz, so a cheap meter won't cut it. The technique would be to buy a cheap Panasonic electric condenser microphone and mount it properly reading the output off the meter. You also need some kind of decent audio oscillator. You can find cheap HP oscillators on Ebay, as well as the 34401A (which has recently been discontinued). What you are thinking of (to be any good to you at all) is a spectrum analyzer. If you found an HP 3580, that would be perfect for your needs, and useful on a bench as well. You could also use an HP 3581 to read in dB and plot the results. Other really good instruments would be a 3585 spectrum analyser, 3561 or 3562 or 35665 Signal Analyser.
Audio Control used to make a fairly crude analyser that displayed on an LED display. It came with calibrated microphones and would generate the frequency sweep. So that would represent the least expensive way to do what you need to do. Make certain you get the Audio Control unit (SA-5010? something like that) with the calibrated Audio Control microphone. That will give you fast readings.
There are software analysers you can use with a less expensive calibrated microphone and a sound card. I haven't played with that idea, but it might be a lot better than the used Audio Control device. That means you need a computer with a sound card where you will be running your test. Do this at night when outside noises are at a minimum.
Call Solen in QC. You can buy a really nice system and they will also design the crossover for you. They sell everything you need, and it will be correct.
Almost anything. Can you take a picture of the rear of the tweeters please?
Solen has far better tweeters than that. I should know, and I still have a set of AD80100W8 and AD0163T8 in a pair of prototype boxes I used to sell. The tweeters were great in their day, but today Peerless and Vifa have much better units. Your choice, but they may not design your crossovers without using their tweeters. I'm not sure about that. Anyway, those will be great on a work bench, 2 way system. I'm also sure someone would buy them from you as well. Why not go all the way and build a really, really nice pair of speakers? I use mostly Peerless these days.
Bad decision. Buy and build a set of 10", 3 way speakers that will completely blow those away. That assortment of drivers will not do for a nice system, but a single 12" with a 6 1/2" mid and AD0163T(something) will make an above average garage system, or workroom. But you need the specs for the woofer before you can design the box. The box has to work with the driver, and that will also determine whether it should be closed baffle or bass reflex system (B4 alignment).
-Chris
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