To all boombox aficionados
I need input from Saturnus and the other seasoned/creative minds here. I am gathering parts for my first portable system. I have read the Boominator thread a few times and have seen some excellent work done by members of this board, so I know this is the right place to be.
My design is for an indoor system, somewhat smaller than the Boominator, using Dayton ND16FA-6 tweeters, Dayton DC130B-8 5.25” woofers, and possibly TB W5-1138SM
subs. I would use the Dayton woofers in a back-to-back speaker setup (probably not touching) as in the Boominator with the chambers tuned (I think) the same way (7.3 liter chamber per side, w/2 opposing woofers and tweeters per chamber, tuned to 77hz, -3db @ 92hz, 2.5 db peak @140hz). I have two of these amps and the plan is to use one to drive the 8 main speakers, and the other to drive two bottom firing subs. I realize the output of this system would not approach that of the Boominator (my calculations put me down 7db, max output ~103.5db), but I am trying to use parts I already have to keep costs down.
I have a fair amount of experience building speaker enclosures with moderate success, so the cabinets are well within my abilities. The electronics however, (filters, x-over, amps, power) are over my head right now. I am studying this science as quickly as I can, but trying to complete two of these systems for Christmas has put me in a real time crunch.
I plan to run these systems off the mains using 12 volt, 4 amp power bricks (I may add a rechargeable battery system later). An iPod (music) or laptop (movies/music) will provide the input signal. The sub section would be switched separately so that you could disable it if you were to run the system outdoors free field where you can’t hear the frequencies below 90-100hz anyway.
Questions I have include:
1) Does the overall system make sense, or should I drop the sub section?
2) Since this is primarily an indoor system, does it make sense to have drivers on both sides of the box?
3) Saturnus mentioned changing the input caps on the amp to remove frequencies below 60hz. How do you do this? Which are the input caps? What would the specs need to be on the new caps to do this? Does this work like a high pass active x-over with a slope, or does it just remove the frequencies?
4) Can you do the same thing on the sub amp? Meaning change the input caps so that only frequencies between 40 and 80hz are driving the subs.
5) Would it be better to build passive x-over? If so, what is the simplest way to do this?
6) Taking into consideration the drivers I am using, what components/values do I use to crossover between the woofers and tweeters @3500hz?
7) How would I wire a USB input port into the system that I could plug the iPod into that would charge the iPod @ 5v and send audio output to the amp(s).
I understand that I am asking for a great deal of info, and I might be able to dig up related info if I spent enough time looking, but much of the info I am looking for is specific and somewhat subjective. As I mentioned before I am really against a time wall, and I may run out of time looking. Thanks for any help!
-Chris
I need input from Saturnus and the other seasoned/creative minds here. I am gathering parts for my first portable system. I have read the Boominator thread a few times and have seen some excellent work done by members of this board, so I know this is the right place to be.
My design is for an indoor system, somewhat smaller than the Boominator, using Dayton ND16FA-6 tweeters, Dayton DC130B-8 5.25” woofers, and possibly TB W5-1138SM
subs. I would use the Dayton woofers in a back-to-back speaker setup (probably not touching) as in the Boominator with the chambers tuned (I think) the same way (7.3 liter chamber per side, w/2 opposing woofers and tweeters per chamber, tuned to 77hz, -3db @ 92hz, 2.5 db peak @140hz). I have two of these amps and the plan is to use one to drive the 8 main speakers, and the other to drive two bottom firing subs. I realize the output of this system would not approach that of the Boominator (my calculations put me down 7db, max output ~103.5db), but I am trying to use parts I already have to keep costs down.
I have a fair amount of experience building speaker enclosures with moderate success, so the cabinets are well within my abilities. The electronics however, (filters, x-over, amps, power) are over my head right now. I am studying this science as quickly as I can, but trying to complete two of these systems for Christmas has put me in a real time crunch.
I plan to run these systems off the mains using 12 volt, 4 amp power bricks (I may add a rechargeable battery system later). An iPod (music) or laptop (movies/music) will provide the input signal. The sub section would be switched separately so that you could disable it if you were to run the system outdoors free field where you can’t hear the frequencies below 90-100hz anyway.
Questions I have include:
1) Does the overall system make sense, or should I drop the sub section?
2) Since this is primarily an indoor system, does it make sense to have drivers on both sides of the box?
3) Saturnus mentioned changing the input caps on the amp to remove frequencies below 60hz. How do you do this? Which are the input caps? What would the specs need to be on the new caps to do this? Does this work like a high pass active x-over with a slope, or does it just remove the frequencies?
4) Can you do the same thing on the sub amp? Meaning change the input caps so that only frequencies between 40 and 80hz are driving the subs.
5) Would it be better to build passive x-over? If so, what is the simplest way to do this?
6) Taking into consideration the drivers I am using, what components/values do I use to crossover between the woofers and tweeters @3500hz?
7) How would I wire a USB input port into the system that I could plug the iPod into that would charge the iPod @ 5v and send audio output to the amp(s).
I understand that I am asking for a great deal of info, and I might be able to dig up related info if I spent enough time looking, but much of the info I am looking for is specific and somewhat subjective. As I mentioned before I am really against a time wall, and I may run out of time looking. Thanks for any help!
-Chris
Last edited:
Completed
The Boombox is complete! 105 db output and just unbelievable sound. Specs exactly as above.
The Boombox is complete! 105 db output and just unbelievable sound. Specs exactly as above.
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