How’s that for a speaker crossover

It was drawn from above, but seen from the side, option 4 could mean two different things with very different coupling:

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In addition to my previous comment on this crossover posted by the OP when he open up the back of the speakers:-

If you look closely you will note:-
1. There are several melt/burn marks into the "point to point" wire insulation from a soldering iron.
2. Several of the cables ties holding components to the board are very slack & are basically doing nothing.
3. Some of the soldering looks as if it is cracked, barely holding.
4. The wiring is badly routed/organised.
5. The "spare" unused ends of red coming from the 2core black cables are messy & have been altered from original?
6. Spacing of some components too close to one another (more an advanced technical point as commented previously)

Basically thats not left the factory like that, & the person who "upgraded" it has more enthusiasm than skill..

Yes, its good to encourage people to try things & "have a go", BUT when electricity is involved, skill/knowledge beats enthusiasm.......

If I was able to, I would encourage the original person who did the "upgrade" to note my above comments, correct the flaws & learn from their mistakes....You can make mistakes, & learn from them........unfortunately in some cases the mistake can be fatal & final!
Hi, as I’ve said before, it is an amateur build of the P Atkinson Sota tl speakers , built in the 70’s ( not by myself). The crossovers were encased in a separate enclosure at the base of the speakers, when testing them they gave my Kef 107/2’s a run for their money.
 

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I'd be worried about vibrations cracking some solder joints, because some caps are "flappin'around in the breeze"
Besides that, who cares how it looks. This thread sounds like WAF applies to internal components too. Can I get the resistors in teal? They're so much cuter!
Plus the fact that any loosely mounted components are not secured against woofer/bass vibration.
A bit of caulk or silicone between the mounting board and components would eliminate any possible buzzing which could be noticed..
I'll use the term "sloppy" amateur assembly, and ignore any resulting questions of my choice of wording.
 
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I wonder if today’s modern caps would still be in tolerance after more than 40 years View attachment 1076684View attachment 1076686

Plenty of good manufacturers of capacitors of suitable quality these days.....also depends on the construction of the capacitor....& plenty who make good "basic" electrolytic.....let alone the better more stable constructions...

P.S....de solder & keep the components if you aren't using them...air core inductors are always good...& no "degradation" to worry about...
 
Well I’ve never seen such large components on a speaker crossover.
removed from my Atkinson sota’s .
Ansar supersound and Rata supersound ( Russ Andrews)caps
View attachment 1076250View attachment 1076251
Hello,
thanks for sharing these crossover pictures. You inspired me to get on an look inside my own Atkinson SOTAs to see how the crossovers look... Rather tidier if I say so myself! I wonder if any of the knowledgable commenters reckon it's worth replacing the caps (based on the look of the things) - they sound lovely (since I replaced the B110s with monacor drivers a couple of years ago). It looks tidy enough to me that perhaps a previous owner already had them done... Cheers, Kaleb
 

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