Just signed up. Stumbled ontothis forum in search of ideas including do's and don't for building speaker stands.
Jump right in those of you that like helping newbees.
Please include web sites e-mails, etc. etc so this dummy can have pics to go by.
Glad to be a member. 😎
Jump right in those of you that like helping newbees.
Please include web sites e-mails, etc. etc so this dummy can have pics to go by.
Glad to be a member. 😎
Hi Gigem and welcome. 🙂
I have never built a speaker stand, all my speaker projects just work out too damn big to need them😉
But good construction is the same all over the world, so give us more details of what you require, and I'm sure myself or someone else will be able to help.
I have never built a speaker stand, all my speaker projects just work out too damn big to need them😉
But good construction is the same all over the world, so give us more details of what you require, and I'm sure myself or someone else will be able to help.
Well....
I need two to support Klipsch bookshelf size speakers which have a bottom dimension of 8.7" by 11.25 inches by 17inches tall. I guess the top platform of the stands should be 24 inches above the floor. The speakers weigh 18 lbs ea.
I need two more for the surrounds which of course need to be above ear level. These are the Bose series 301 Bookshelf speaker which the base is 14+11/16 W by 9+13/16 inches in depth by 9inches high.
Not the fanciest system in the worl but I am enjoying it immensely. The Bose speakers are still in the carton under the Christmas tree.
I guess my next project should be try to build a speaker better than what I have. First stands for these.
I need two to support Klipsch bookshelf size speakers which have a bottom dimension of 8.7" by 11.25 inches by 17inches tall. I guess the top platform of the stands should be 24 inches above the floor. The speakers weigh 18 lbs ea.
I need two more for the surrounds which of course need to be above ear level. These are the Bose series 301 Bookshelf speaker which the base is 14+11/16 W by 9+13/16 inches in depth by 9inches high.
Not the fanciest system in the worl but I am enjoying it immensely. The Bose speakers are still in the carton under the Christmas tree.
I guess my next project should be try to build a speaker better than what I have. First stands for these.
Well Gigem
The easiest way to do this would be to make a long thin box, hollow inside, and say 6" by 4" on the outside from 3/4" mdf. On the bottom make a base about 12" square, or however big you need for stability or asthetics and add spikes to couple the stand to the floor.
Make a top plate the same or slightly smaller in size as the footprint of your speakers, but before you attach it, fill the tube up to say half full with dry sand. This will add stability and dampen resonances in the tube.
Sand and paint with your required finish, and bob's your uncle. Sorted!
If you can't face making your own tubes, you could use pvc drainage pipe instead, but you might need to add some car underbody damping paint to the inside of the pipe as well, as it is more likely to ring than mdf.
If you wanted, you could also add spikes to the bottom of the speakers as well, and this would improve things, but at the cost of maybe harming the resale value of your speakers.
Hope this gives you some food for thought🙂
The easiest way to do this would be to make a long thin box, hollow inside, and say 6" by 4" on the outside from 3/4" mdf. On the bottom make a base about 12" square, or however big you need for stability or asthetics and add spikes to couple the stand to the floor.
Make a top plate the same or slightly smaller in size as the footprint of your speakers, but before you attach it, fill the tube up to say half full with dry sand. This will add stability and dampen resonances in the tube.
Sand and paint with your required finish, and bob's your uncle. Sorted!
If you can't face making your own tubes, you could use pvc drainage pipe instead, but you might need to add some car underbody damping paint to the inside of the pipe as well, as it is more likely to ring than mdf.
If you wanted, you could also add spikes to the bottom of the speakers as well, and this would improve things, but at the cost of maybe harming the resale value of your speakers.
Hope this gives you some food for thought🙂
Everyone seems to be sold that spikes are needed on the bottom.
What is the theory of this practice (spikes). Any links where I can read up on this would be great.
Thanks
What is the theory of this practice (spikes). Any links where I can read up on this would be great.
Thanks
I don't know of any links, but spikes are used to couple the enclosure more tightly to the floor, or stand.
This is because spikes make a firmer contact, as the load is concentrated on a few points rather than spread out over the bottom of the speaker, vibrations caused by the speaker are coupled to the floor and damped more effectively.
Sometimes this technique is also used for other bits of kit, like amps and CD player, but in this case it is to dampen vibrations received from the outside world. You can get some general idea of the principal from this thread
This is because spikes make a firmer contact, as the load is concentrated on a few points rather than spread out over the bottom of the speaker, vibrations caused by the speaker are coupled to the floor and damped more effectively.
Sometimes this technique is also used for other bits of kit, like amps and CD player, but in this case it is to dampen vibrations received from the outside world. You can get some general idea of the principal from this thread
Thanks for the input. I have decided the speaker stands MUST have spikes. I assume nobody will mind if my spikes are sorta round and not pointy on my ceramic tile floor.
I am enjoying this EXTREME audiophyle perspective to music. I admit I was shocked somewhat
by the fancy $$$ lab grade tables and compreesed air.
Hope to pass ya on the trail again.
Gigem Aggies!
(not that any of you folks know what the heck I'm talking about)
I am enjoying this EXTREME audiophyle perspective to music. I admit I was shocked somewhat
by the fancy $$$ lab grade tables and compreesed air.Hope to pass ya on the trail again.
Gigem Aggies!
(not that any of you folks know what the heck I'm talking about)
Howdy. jwb '98 here. welcome to diyaudio!
There are plenty of spike-alike frobs for speaker stand use on hardwood and tile floors. I've seen round, flat, etc.
The advantage of spikes and high mass are simply to keep the speaker itself from moving. If a big woofer is moving, the speaker itself will tend to move in the opposite direction. By controlling this movement you get better control over the sound.
There are plenty of spike-alike frobs for speaker stand use on hardwood and tile floors. I've seen round, flat, etc.
The advantage of spikes and high mass are simply to keep the speaker itself from moving. If a big woofer is moving, the speaker itself will tend to move in the opposite direction. By controlling this movement you get better control over the sound.
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