Hello,
I'm new here but I've read many threads in this forum. My problem is that I want to build a fullrange speaker but don't have idea how to start. Datsheet of almost all speakers have only T/S parametrs and plot of frequency response. But how can I check if any of speakers is good at reproduction of sound. There is no information about distortion, waterfall plot or the structure of motor. I plan to build a 30-40l sealed box with small fullrange. I'm thinking about CHR70,MonacorSPH60 or one of TangBand mayby W4-1320 (I don't want to spend lot of money at start). How to compare them(not only at bass performace). If my post is stupid please tell me. I want to start but right now I have only some theory(not much but basics).
Sorry for my bad English
I'm new here but I've read many threads in this forum. My problem is that I want to build a fullrange speaker but don't have idea how to start. Datsheet of almost all speakers have only T/S parametrs and plot of frequency response. But how can I check if any of speakers is good at reproduction of sound. There is no information about distortion, waterfall plot or the structure of motor. I plan to build a 30-40l sealed box with small fullrange. I'm thinking about CHR70,MonacorSPH60 or one of TangBand mayby W4-1320 (I don't want to spend lot of money at start). How to compare them(not only at bass performace). If my post is stupid please tell me. I want to start but right now I have only some theory(not much but basics).
Sorry for my bad English
Start with Planet10 Hifi - if Dave thinks a driver is worth his time, that's a good recommendation.
30L is a pretty big enclosure for a fullrange - lots of options that'll work fine in half that.
Comparison based on specifications is impossible. Better to ask people who've used the drivers - people like planet10 and scottmoose who have designed and built many fullrange speakers.
30L is a pretty big enclosure for a fullrange - lots of options that'll work fine in half that.
Comparison based on specifications is impossible. Better to ask people who've used the drivers - people like planet10 and scottmoose who have designed and built many fullrange speakers.
I thought about seald enclosure becouse: after reading Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design horn theory bulding a proper horn is beyond my ability ( it will be too big) transmission line is to hard for first project(standing waves problem). So there is only vented and closed. After spending some time with winISD I think that closed is better. It has better impulse response and power handling and I simpy don't need a lot of bass ( listining to blues and some jazz). Open baffle in my room won't be good idea (small😛).
+1 on this response. I'm a fan of full range single driver speakers. I've built a few and am happy with all of them. I'm not scientific about it; I like to hear what others think about the different drivers and enclosures. The Pioneer 8" full range, AKA BOFU, is a favorite among many DIY'ers. I have a set waiting as my next project- when it gets warmer, as an unheated garage and single digit temps aren't conducive to building the cabs. Planet 10 is definitely a great resource. I built a pair of FE127 Fonkens and can't say enough good about them. I was reading about a project Dave has now with some Mark Audio speakers in what I believe is a sealed box; looks interesting.
Again, Dave at Planet 10 seems to be the full range, single driver guru around here.
With all this said, my advice, and this has worked for me, is to read what others have to say, ask questions, then pick one and go with it.
BTW, I'm also a fan of jazz and some blues; the Fonkens, combined with an LM3875 chip amp work great for that type of music. However, the Fonken is not a sealed cabinet.
Mike
I would very much like to see these values printed for every audiophile drive unit, but I suspect there's a better chance my hamburger will get up and dance...
Anyway I suggest open baffle! It's a good way to get big results with small work.
I'm a fan of small full range drivers ~3", in MLTL's or TL's, like Cyburg's Needle or Vampyr, or BiB.
Easy to make, cheap, nice sounding and nice looking.
Easy to make, cheap, nice sounding and nice looking.
Mes,
There are a ton of options. Read and see what people like. That won't tell you what you will like, but you will get an idea of the huge range.
Start with something modest. Build something that someone has already proven. DIU speaker building is like cookies... you can't stop at one.
Not quite Poland, but in your neck of the woods, are some speakers i'd love to try but are hard to get here Sonido. One of my customers in Bulgaria found they work well in Demetri.
There are also some Russian drivers that are quite good that we barely get a glimpse of.
And almost everything is available in Germany.
dave
There are a ton of options. Read and see what people like. That won't tell you what you will like, but you will get an idea of the huge range.
Start with something modest. Build something that someone has already proven. DIU speaker building is like cookies... you can't stop at one.
Not quite Poland, but in your neck of the woods, are some speakers i'd love to try but are hard to get here Sonido. One of my customers in Bulgaria found they work well in Demetri.
There are also some Russian drivers that are quite good that we barely get a glimpse of.
And almost everything is available in Germany.
dave
my 2¢ ...
As a first project, as P10 says, there are lots of options.
I won't restate my continuous rant about the questions one might want to ask themselves before they start any changes to a system...
Here goes:
easiest enclosure is no enclosure (open baffle), but one must have access to a pair of suitable drivers, and the space to actually listen to them in the room that you want to...if a speaker physically dominates a room, and that space is shared with the SO and/or kids/pets, it is too big.
simplest box type speaker is re-purposing an existing enclosure with the correct drivers for that enclosure. You can seal it up if it is a vented type, and put a driver for sealed enclosures, or vent a sealed enclosure and put a driver suitable for BR enclosures into them. Sometimes a "retro-fit, re-purposing" can be very gratifying to someone new to DIY.
A very simple sealed box is easy to make, with just the material, glue and screws/air nailer, same for the BR, except you must have the ability to cut an accurate opening for the vent. Simple butt joints can work nicely if properly done.
Things generally get tougher the larger the enclosure, as bracing is an absolute must. Even small speaker enclosures can require fairly robust bracing.
without pandering to Dave's and Chris', but most everything I've heard that Dave has designed and Chris has built, are standouts. Just make sure that your woodworking skills are ok, or you have a family member or friend who can cut the panels. Even I've managed to scab together an example or two of these designs, but they are fugly by comparison
Planning on building one of Dave's designs for a small 4" FR driver...I'll post as soon as we get them done.
hope that helps
As a first project, as P10 says, there are lots of options.
I won't restate my continuous rant about the questions one might want to ask themselves before they start any changes to a system...
Here goes:
easiest enclosure is no enclosure (open baffle), but one must have access to a pair of suitable drivers, and the space to actually listen to them in the room that you want to...if a speaker physically dominates a room, and that space is shared with the SO and/or kids/pets, it is too big.
simplest box type speaker is re-purposing an existing enclosure with the correct drivers for that enclosure. You can seal it up if it is a vented type, and put a driver for sealed enclosures, or vent a sealed enclosure and put a driver suitable for BR enclosures into them. Sometimes a "retro-fit, re-purposing" can be very gratifying to someone new to DIY.
A very simple sealed box is easy to make, with just the material, glue and screws/air nailer, same for the BR, except you must have the ability to cut an accurate opening for the vent. Simple butt joints can work nicely if properly done.
Things generally get tougher the larger the enclosure, as bracing is an absolute must. Even small speaker enclosures can require fairly robust bracing.
without pandering to Dave's and Chris', but most everything I've heard that Dave has designed and Chris has built, are standouts. Just make sure that your woodworking skills are ok, or you have a family member or friend who can cut the panels. Even I've managed to scab together an example or two of these designs, but they are fugly by comparison
Planning on building one of Dave's designs for a small 4" FR driver...I'll post as soon as we get them done.
hope that helps
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So in conclusion, diy speakers are in half science and art. I like that idea but it might be addictive😛. Thanks for reply. I'm excited to build my first project(but still didn't know which option to start). Lot of things to do, too much opportunities for beginner.
My suggestion, if you want something dead simple to build, would be a FAST design - fullrange in a sealed box up top, using a support woofer in a sealed box for a stand. Cross over at about 250hz should prevent any crossover related distortions from becoming audible.
For value, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat the Mark Audio CHR-70's (or their paper coned CSS EL70 cousins) crossed to the Exodus Audio Anarchy. Mind, I don't know of anyone who's actually tried the combination - on paper, it has the potential, and both manufacturers know what they're doing, but I can't guarantee the magic. Enclosure volumes would be about 6L for the CHR-70 and about 16L for the Anarchy - might not look like a textbook perfect sealed alignment, but it will provide more in room extension, and provides the option of porting the enclosure should more extension be desired.
Grab a pair of cheap tripath stereo amps off ebay and knock up some LR4 active crossovers and you're done. Could probably get it all together for less than $300USD.
For value, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat the Mark Audio CHR-70's (or their paper coned CSS EL70 cousins) crossed to the Exodus Audio Anarchy. Mind, I don't know of anyone who's actually tried the combination - on paper, it has the potential, and both manufacturers know what they're doing, but I can't guarantee the magic. Enclosure volumes would be about 6L for the CHR-70 and about 16L for the Anarchy - might not look like a textbook perfect sealed alignment, but it will provide more in room extension, and provides the option of porting the enclosure should more extension be desired.
Grab a pair of cheap tripath stereo amps off ebay and knock up some LR4 active crossovers and you're done. Could probably get it all together for less than $300USD.
Sadly my amp is only Onkyo cs-325 system so it is not good but I'm at begining😛. As I said I often listen to blues and jazz (but I will always listen any kind of music at least once🙂). I think that I'll start with something like tower box with inner dimension 12x25cm so I can easly change its volume by adding bricks inside. Maybe use of Monacor SPH60 while it is easiest do buy (I think). mrybczyn do you know where to get anything else here in Poland?
Cześć, mes1234
I've got ct193 with sph60x (project ct193). Amplifier - gainclone , self version 🙂. Sounds very, very good in 24m2 room.
On our polish forum audiostereo you can find much more info about it also.
K
I've got ct193 with sph60x (project ct193). Amplifier - gainclone , self version 🙂. Sounds very, very good in 24m2 room.
On our polish forum audiostereo you can find much more info about it also.
K
Czesc mes, I've lived in Canada for 25 years, and haven't a clue where to buy speaker components in Poland... I imagine online through mail order would work best.
The Cyburg designs "Needles" and "Vampyr" should fit the bill, as he's in Europe, and typically uses drivers available there 🙂
I've built the Needles, and he designed them around the Visaton FRS8, although people have used various Tang Bands and Vifas and I'm currently testing an Dayton RS100-4 in one, sounds great. Needle / Vampyr would be a very easy first build:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...tangband-w3-871s.html?perpage=25&pagenumber=1
I wouldn't worry about changing the speaker volume after the fact, build one of the pre-designed units and you won't have to change anything. Next time you get the itch, build something completely different, and give the old speakers to a friend 🙂
The Cyburg designs "Needles" and "Vampyr" should fit the bill, as he's in Europe, and typically uses drivers available there 🙂
I've built the Needles, and he designed them around the Visaton FRS8, although people have used various Tang Bands and Vifas and I'm currently testing an Dayton RS100-4 in one, sounds great. Needle / Vampyr would be a very easy first build:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...tangband-w3-871s.html?perpage=25&pagenumber=1
I wouldn't worry about changing the speaker volume after the fact, build one of the pre-designed units and you won't have to change anything. Next time you get the itch, build something completely different, and give the old speakers to a friend 🙂
The Vampyr is a scottmoose design for the FE103 -- is there a 2nd wit the same name?
Vampyr has been pulled and superceded by Vampyr-V. It has been successfully beta tested. To get plans before the official debut of wodendesign.com mail scott or i.
audio-talk :: View topic - Vampyr V build
dave
I wonder what type of construction are those Cyburgs-Needle or ct193. It looks to me like something between ale types of enclosures. It is not a transmission line but also not vented. How to calculate them or is this a something totally custom. And second question why ct193 has something like horn ( but in fact very small) does it work like bass reflex pipe with no resonance? Maybe I'm to worried about theory but curiosity is to strong😛. I think I'll stick to my current amp always will be place for improvement.
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