Suppose he was referring to those very thin air gaps that are not visible ... But have huge impact!No need to start a thread for _this_ conclusion, JM
Actually, there isn't a question about heat dissapation.
Because heat is bad for components, it reduces their operating life, and promotes failures.
That's a fact, and not debatable.
Through the decades, mica with paste was always used, and reliability was high, as opposed to today's products.
Being a service tech for decades now, I've seen this many times enough to know.
Yes of course. I'm not questioning anything, and surely not the necessity of heat dissipation.
My thing is that in some situations a pad, like keratherm, may be absolutely good, while in others not so much. (Don't know about its long-time reliability though)
And since my first project was done with keratherm, my "old school" (haha) says keratherm. (mica+goop being new stuff for me).
BUT I don't mean either to be better or worse, AND I will not start an argument with experts having exponentially more experience than me!
My thing is that in some situations a pad, like keratherm, may be absolutely good, while in others not so much. (Don't know about its long-time reliability though)
And since my first project was done with keratherm, my "old school" (haha) says keratherm. (mica+goop being new stuff for me).
BUT I don't mean either to be better or worse, AND I will not start an argument with experts having exponentially more experience than me!
Not starting oneNo need to start a thread for _this_ conclusion, JM
, simply protecting from people stating "oh, I use nothing and my amps work fine" kind of thing Which often leads to heated 150 post flame threads
^^^^^^ THAT
Just a little notational thing:
The unit is watts per metre per kelvin, or W/m/K, since mK means milli-kelvins you can't shorten it like this. There are a few overlaps between prefixes and units in SI such as metre/milli = m, tesla/tera = T, and you have to be careful sometimes to avoid ambiguity. For instance torque is newton-metres = Nm, not metre-newtons (mN = milli-newton!)
I'll be using mica/goop to mount some Tokin SITs. I have some mica sheet but not had to work with it before as I've always had pre-cut pads. I'm wondering what's the best way of cutting the holes for the pins/mounting bolts - will something like this cut the holes?
Leather Hole Punch, [Upgraded Version][Perfect Full Set] Diyife Belt Puncher, Heavy Duty Revolving Plier Tool with 2 Extra Plates and Ruler, Multi Sized for Crafts, Card, Rubber, etc, Blue : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Any tips appreciated.
I will use a good sharp craft knife for cutting the sheet to size.
Cheers
Leather Hole Punch, [Upgraded Version][Perfect Full Set] Diyife Belt Puncher, Heavy Duty Revolving Plier Tool with 2 Extra Plates and Ruler, Multi Sized for Crafts, Card, Rubber, etc, Blue : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Any tips appreciated.
I will use a good sharp craft knife for cutting the sheet to size.
Cheers
I used a single hole punch, to be used with a hammer… if you have a piece of alu/brass tube, sharpen it with a cone sinker et voilà [emoji41]
Or Mighty ZM has a description over at the old soul thread…
https://www.schmedt24.de/media/image/90/82/d4/locheisen-H-864.jpg
Or Mighty ZM has a description over at the old soul thread…
https://www.schmedt24.de/media/image/90/82/d4/locheisen-H-864.jpg