I haven't done it, but the first thing I'd try is acetone as it shouldn't damage the aluminium like some paint strippers.
Another option may be one of the citrus based paint strippers or cleaners used for removing adhesives. I'm just thinking of options to avoid leaving marks.
Another option may be one of the citrus based paint strippers or cleaners used for removing adhesives. I'm just thinking of options to avoid leaving marks.
Cellulose thinners? Or any commercial paint brush cleaner applied with cotton woola cloth, or paper towel. I'd steer clear of anything strongly acid or alkaline (most paint stripping chemicals) and wash yourself and the faceplate as soon as you're done. Don't soak it in a bath of anything...
To get paint to adhere to aluminum it may have some acid in it to etch the aluminum. Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly when bare. Paint doesn’t stick to aluminum oxide, it will stick to clean aluminum.
I have successfully painted aluminum using a special acid etch primer. (Using a supplied air mask.)
What does the back of the symmetrical panel look like?
I have successfully painted aluminum using a special acid etch primer. (Using a supplied air mask.)
What does the back of the symmetrical panel look like?
The back not being symmetrical, impossible to use it, it would have been perfect. Both side have the same aspects. I just delivered the other parts (all the ones paint in black) to a place where they will paint them with electrostatic paint (a dark red, couldn't find the exact color, but getting close). All they said is: "don't blast it (if it makes sense in english, this is when you remove paint using sand, for example), you will loose all the brushed metal effect". "And maybe try acetone". Didn't get the courage to do it so far...
I'm not sure i'm posting in the right feed, anyway, let's the moderation relocate if necessary.
If you want to paint an amp - I mean the parts being NEAR the tubes, you must consider temperature.
In the case of 300b they can reach up to 220° celsius, but barely will reach 200°, therefor the paint of the parts close to them must resist to this temperature. Paint for car, while it offers a lot options and practicity, isn't specified for that.
Electrostatic paint (actually a dust used in a peculiar way), is specified for up to 220° celsius.
BUT I'm sure you have no problem using regular spray in most of the cases hahaha
If you want to paint an amp - I mean the parts being NEAR the tubes, you must consider temperature.
In the case of 300b they can reach up to 220° celsius, but barely will reach 200°, therefor the paint of the parts close to them must resist to this temperature. Paint for car, while it offers a lot options and practicity, isn't specified for that.
Electrostatic paint (actually a dust used in a peculiar way), is specified for up to 220° celsius.
BUT I'm sure you have no problem using regular spray in most of the cases hahaha
Anyone willing to get into customizing an amp (and I think a kit was made for that), her we choose color using RAL codes (Brazil). Not sure this is global.
We call them "RAL codes". I chose some of them, and finally found someone having the 3003. We'll see!
We call them "RAL codes". I chose some of them, and finally found someone having the 3003. We'll see!
Before I'd have a whole nother one remanufactured I would try a couple things
Acetone
Gasoline
Steel wool in the same direction as the original brush effect
Acetone
Gasoline
Steel wool in the same direction as the original brush effect
RAL colors are used almost everywhere, except in the U.S. “Pantone” colors are often used. Although most paint manufacturers will often have their own color books.
When doing a sound system for a large venue, the loudspeaker color is often specified. One arena specified a very very expensive paint. Turns out the color was silver… real silver. I bought one gallon of the specified paint. Tried it out and found that the color of aluminum paint was the same. Saved a very large amount by using aluminum paint. The architect and pretty much everyone did not see any difference.
I suspect the reason why they specified silver paint is that aluminum can cause problems when in contact with steel structural elements. Also the architects probably did not realize the cost of the specified color was a wee bit more than the other colors. Well enough off topic chatter.
When doing a sound system for a large venue, the loudspeaker color is often specified. One arena specified a very very expensive paint. Turns out the color was silver… real silver. I bought one gallon of the specified paint. Tried it out and found that the color of aluminum paint was the same. Saved a very large amount by using aluminum paint. The architect and pretty much everyone did not see any difference.
I suspect the reason why they specified silver paint is that aluminum can cause problems when in contact with steel structural elements. Also the architects probably did not realize the cost of the specified color was a wee bit more than the other colors. Well enough off topic chatter.
Simon 7000
Coincidentally I am an Architect.
I actually come across Ral colors quite a bit, specifically in pre finished items.
As as far as pricing we very much understand color change can increase cost as we have to often defend it once the bids comes in.
One of the big motivators behind specific paint colors is consistent branding by client. A lot of the clients I've worked on recently. have their own custom colors that can only be made for them at SW or PPG.
Coincidentally I am an Architect.
I actually come across Ral colors quite a bit, specifically in pre finished items.
As as far as pricing we very much understand color change can increase cost as we have to often defend it once the bids comes in.
One of the big motivators behind specific paint colors is consistent branding by client. A lot of the clients I've worked on recently. have their own custom colors that can only be made for them at SW or PPG.
Garage door paint seems to be the thing to use (no separate primer needed). Certainly works a treat on diecast aluminium enclosures. Probably good for anodized as well. I thought only alkali attacks aluminium.
Soak text paint in acetone, at least overnight (meaning 8 hours or more) because it´s most certainly 2 component Epoxy.
It won´t actually dissolve but become weak brittle and can be removed with steel wool.
Make some kind of jig or guide , even out of wood , to re-brush panel same way as before.
In a way it´s a blessing, because you can re-do it and get the same effect.
Not sure I understood you well: will you later paint the whole surface with a solid colour?
In that case you will need a wash primer coat first, or use some aluminum specific paint which is self etching.
It won´t actually dissolve but become weak brittle and can be removed with steel wool.
Make some kind of jig or guide , even out of wood , to re-brush panel same way as before.
In a way it´s a blessing, because you can re-do it and get the same effect.
Not sure I understood you well: will you later paint the whole surface with a solid colour?
In that case you will need a wash primer coat first, or use some aluminum specific paint which is self etching.