Hi all,
I have a KX800.4 that I used to use around 2005 or so, however I just pulled it out of storage and it goes straight into protection mode
I read a few threads around here and noticed everyone talking about the brown glue, and sure enough it's covering/shorting multiple components together
What's the easiest way to get rid of it? do I really have to scrape it or can I dissolve it with something?
I also have a Kicker ZR360 that went bad back around 2004 or so when I was using it one day, I distinctly remember it suddenly started pumping out about 60hz into the subwoofers one rainy day... wonder if that was the same issue? I actually still have that amp in a box somewhere, might open it up and take a peek
I have a KX800.4 that I used to use around 2005 or so, however I just pulled it out of storage and it goes straight into protection mode
I read a few threads around here and noticed everyone talking about the brown glue, and sure enough it's covering/shorting multiple components together
What's the easiest way to get rid of it? do I really have to scrape it or can I dissolve it with something?
I also have a Kicker ZR360 that went bad back around 2004 or so when I was using it one day, I distinctly remember it suddenly started pumping out about 60hz into the subwoofers one rainy day... wonder if that was the same issue? I actually still have that amp in a box somewhere, might open it up and take a peek
I use a pick and hemostats to remove it.
I didn't try solvent but I wouldn't want a diluted version of it to spread on the board or under components.
I didn't try solvent but I wouldn't want a diluted version of it to spread on the board or under components.
thanks for the info!
one more question - some of this seems very hard to get to, am I likely going to have to desolder some components to get this cleaned up?
one more question - some of this seems very hard to get to, am I likely going to have to desolder some components to get this cleaned up?
You may have to remove some components.
If it's on the body of a resistor (small round, 1/4w...), I'd suggest replacing the resistor. It will eat through the coating and destroy the resistive element. The large ceramic resistors won't be damaged.
I don't know why amp manufacturers still use that fixative (I've seen it on newer amps, just a few years old). It's been known to be a problem back as far as the '80s, at least.
If it's on the body of a resistor (small round, 1/4w...), I'd suggest replacing the resistor. It will eat through the coating and destroy the resistive element. The large ceramic resistors won't be damaged.
I don't know why amp manufacturers still use that fixative (I've seen it on newer amps, just a few years old). It's been known to be a problem back as far as the '80s, at least.
Hey Perry, I tried to PM you to see if you'd be interested in customizing a couple of Kicker amps for me for use with desktop DACs and headphones, but you have PM's disabled
If not - how easy do you think it'd be to remove the input/preamp boards, and somehow pipe in direct RCA or XLR output from a DAC? Also if I wanted to replace caps with Silmic, which caps would you recommend I replace?
If not - how easy do you think it'd be to remove the input/preamp boards, and somehow pipe in direct RCA or XLR output from a DAC? Also if I wanted to replace caps with Silmic, which caps would you recommend I replace?
I don't make suggestions for mods other than those related to reliability.
Replacing the caps will likely be pointless unless the original caps are defective.
When driving a signal into an amp, there needs to be something to make sure that there is no ground loop or there is some sort of input circuit to compensate for a difference of grounds. If you bypass the entire preamp circuit, you're removing that circuit in the amp and could have problems with noise.
You can email me (babin_perry@yahoo.com) but the same applies for modifications.
Replacing the caps will likely be pointless unless the original caps are defective.
When driving a signal into an amp, there needs to be something to make sure that there is no ground loop or there is some sort of input circuit to compensate for a difference of grounds. If you bypass the entire preamp circuit, you're removing that circuit in the amp and could have problems with noise.
You can email me (babin_perry@yahoo.com) but the same applies for modifications.
I am just made of questions right now... Can you elaborate on this? I followed until you got to the headphones part.
Well I'd love to!
Basically, once you hear headphones on a speaker amp it's hard to go back to headphone amps... and since I'm a little on the weird side, I wondered what it would sound like if I dug that old Kicker KX200.4 from college out of my closet and gave it a go. I fell in love with the sound! I prefer it over all my headphone amps (burson fun, silmic modded gilmore lite mk2, RME ADI-2 internal headphone amp, Benchmark AHB2 amp, JL Audio 300/4 amp... the list goes on)
I get made fun of often for it on the audiophile/headphone discord server I'm in - and the amount I care is zero 🙂
Oh, I also have a Rockford Fosgate sub amp powering a Clark Transducer bolted to the back of my chair... did I mention I'm crazy?
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Sweet Jesus..
And the increased noise floor doesn't bother you? Or has this practice cost you enough hearing to make it a moot point? 😀
I too like a robust headphone amplifier but there's just no excuse for that.
Nothing over on the https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/ section piques your interest? They have kits and pre-assembled designs too if you're not into fabricating.
And the increased noise floor doesn't bother you? Or has this practice cost you enough hearing to make it a moot point? 😀
I too like a robust headphone amplifier but there's just no excuse for that.
Nothing over on the https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/ section piques your interest? They have kits and pre-assembled designs too if you're not into fabricating.
On planars such as the Meze Empyrean and Abyss 1266TC the hiss is barely audible, and on the Susvara it's virtually silent. However on dynamics, yes the hiss makes it unusable.
I've actually been emailing Perry Babin to see if it would be possible to remove the input/preamp board and just use straight RCA/XLR from my DAC/Preamp to hopefully make the noise floor even quieter! No idea if it's possible but it would be a super fun project!
As for the DIY - I built a Pass ACA last year and it was a fun little project, sounds good on speakers. But it runs way too hot and I never listen to speakers anyway... tried it on headphones and it sounded mushy and lacking tons of detail... although it could have been because I used one ACA with a 1/4" plug - kind of curious what it would sound like if I built a second and used them as monoblocks?
I also have a DIY Noire headphone amp which I love the sound of, but again now that I'm used to the feeling of speaker amps, it's really hard to enjoy headphone amps anymore
I see. Well, automotive amplifiers are generally designed in blocks so direct injection is possible without too much effort. If it were my project i'd use something like a 3.5mm jack with 2 sets of poles and wire it in a manner where the amplifier would function as normal without the presence of a 3.5mm tip or allow takeover in the presence of one. Such as most of the cheap BT speaker line-in jacks function. An AUX in that bypasses the internal pre-amp stage if you will. Input impedance match will affect the end result though.