Too funny 
Invariably over amp all my speaker drivers, want the headroom, but...
Had some small two way sats based on the Realistic 5" fullrange 40-1909B's that handled at most 10 watts connected to a Hafler 555
Only one accident, when the preamp volume control pot "stop" failed and went from max attenuation to ZERO. Blew the voice coils right out of the cones. Oops, laughed it off, jumped in the car and an hour later and $15 lighter, fixed both.
I ROTFLMAO, knew there be a day...
Invariably over amp all my speaker drivers, want the headroom, but...
Had some small two way sats based on the Realistic 5" fullrange 40-1909B's that handled at most 10 watts connected to a Hafler 555
Only one accident, when the preamp volume control pot "stop" failed and went from max attenuation to ZERO. Blew the voice coils right out of the cones. Oops, laughed it off, jumped in the car and an hour later and $15 lighter, fixed both.
I ROTFLMAO, knew there be a day...
Try passive line level filters if you don't like op-amps.
TLS.org | Passive Line-Level Crossover
There is a link to spredsheet at top of page.
TLS.org | Passive Line-Level Crossover
There is a link to spredsheet at top of page.
or use a simple volume-control device as sometimes applied in older days:
connect a light-bulb to the amps output and a R/Ldr divider at the amps input...
It's not HiFi, but is very effective in preventing clipping
just find simple schame on the net. i dont find design for audio. this is general HPF.
i hope it dont change the SQ
The F5 is a current output amp, no? if so, try this (at your own risk):
-- install a 2 ohm resistor in series with the driver. This is to protect the amp, and for a current output amp it shouldn't cause too much sonic change.
-- get 40 silicon diodes, make two 20-diode strings (each string has 20 in series, same direction). Solder one string across the driver terminals, then solder the other one across the terminal as well but in opposite direction. These two strings will serve as drains when the voltage across the driver terminals reaches around 10V RMS (at this voltage the 8 ohm speaker consumes 15w, theoretically), i.e. they will prevent the driver from seeing more than 10V~.
-- install a 2 ohm resistor in series with the driver. This is to protect the amp, and for a current output amp it shouldn't cause too much sonic change.
-- get 40 silicon diodes, make two 20-diode strings (each string has 20 in series, same direction). Solder one string across the driver terminals, then solder the other one across the terminal as well but in opposite direction. These two strings will serve as drains when the voltage across the driver terminals reaches around 10V RMS (at this voltage the 8 ohm speaker consumes 15w, theoretically), i.e. they will prevent the driver from seeing more than 10V~.
The 20 diode clamps will switch on (conduct) at 20x0.6v=12 volts so your driver won't see anything higher than + or - 24 volts since F5 is dual rail. 24 volts into 8 ohms is 73 watts - too much since F5 is 25 watt amp. It will never reach clamp limit. Regarding noise - the diodes don't contribute noise when current doesn't flow through them and when current does you don't care because you want it to be used as a clipping device. Easier to use a class D amp with a variable input supply.
I think all of this is really not an issue unless you have a driver with very small x-mechanical and it is a very sensitive (95 dB +) driver. 25 watt amps are normal for most fullrange drivers and most people never worry about blowing a driver unless you really turn volume up high or system has turn on pop.
I think all of this is really not an issue unless you have a driver with very small x-mechanical and it is a very sensitive (95 dB +) driver. 25 watt amps are normal for most fullrange drivers and most people never worry about blowing a driver unless you really turn volume up high or system has turn on pop.
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