Hi people.
I thought i would save alot of time and money by getting my 110litre box cut ,by a furniture man with a table saw.
got the box today..
fitted it together at home-and?
almost every corner is Not 90*degrees
one piece is +3mm on one end,and -1mm on the other..it also has 2 90+*(obtuse?)on one end...
the main parts that must be all the same,420mm,vary by 2mm eitherway,and not one part is square
I COULDVE MADE MY OWN BOX THIS INNACCURATE IF I DID IT MYSELF !
so... tomorow i must go back,tell him to make it again,
this time with 90 angles please😛 and within 1mm also
for no extra charge.. otherwise, i will have to spend a day in a friends workshop making them all the same size by running them over the saw while clamped together,which means my skills come into play which defeats the whole purpose of going to a furniture man in the first place
THE JBL 2226h continues to wait for a box..
😱 
I thought i would save alot of time and money by getting my 110litre box cut ,by a furniture man with a table saw.
got the box today..
fitted it together at home-and?
almost every corner is Not 90*degrees
one piece is +3mm on one end,and -1mm on the other..it also has 2 90+*(obtuse?)on one end...
the main parts that must be all the same,420mm,vary by 2mm eitherway,and not one part is square
I COULDVE MADE MY OWN BOX THIS INNACCURATE IF I DID IT MYSELF !
so... tomorow i must go back,tell him to make it again,
this time with 90 angles please😛 and within 1mm also
for no extra charge.. otherwise, i will have to spend a day in a friends workshop making them all the same size by running them over the saw while clamped together,which means my skills come into play which defeats the whole purpose of going to a furniture man in the first place
THE JBL 2226h continues to wait for a box..
😱 
Hi, mikee12345
Maybe the only thing the man needs is a good table saw and some fine Belgium beer!! 😉
/Hugo - had the same problem with his amps bottom plates.
Maybe the only thing the man needs is a good table saw and some fine Belgium beer!! 😉
/Hugo - had the same problem with his amps bottom plates.
Mikee - try the ITM chain.
If you live in wellington - I recommend Northpac in Newlands.
They cut everything +/- 0.5mm for my subwoofer (total cost of 18mm MDF 2400x2400 plus a 2400x1200 sheet - including cutting was $100 which I thought very reasonable).
When I got home, they made a mistake on 2 pieces (cut short by 30mm accidentally). I called and by the time I got there (20 mns later) the 2 new pieces were waiting for me free of charge, no questions asked.
Now that is what I call professionalism AND service!
Dave.
If you live in wellington - I recommend Northpac in Newlands.
They cut everything +/- 0.5mm for my subwoofer (total cost of 18mm MDF 2400x2400 plus a 2400x1200 sheet - including cutting was $100 which I thought very reasonable).
When I got home, they made a mistake on 2 pieces (cut short by 30mm accidentally). I called and by the time I got there (20 mns later) the 2 new pieces were waiting for me free of charge, no questions asked.
Now that is what I call professionalism AND service!
Dave.
Hi Mikee
If you don't have any luck with the furniture man, and you have a router, C-clamps, a long straight edge and a tee-square, a good way to get accurate edges is as follows:
Mark out the size you want on the MDF with a pencil or scriber, making sure you are measuring parallel edges from the same perpendicular edge. Check it is square by measuring across each diagonal to make sure they are the same (for rectangles only - der). Cut the board to approximately the right size - ie just outside the lines (your furniture man has done this for you already). Clamp your ruler to the MDF an appropriate distance from this edge (this distance will be the distance from the edge of the router cutter to the edge of the router base). Run the router along the edge to trim it. You should only remove maybe 3mm max in doing this. This will give you a perpendicular and straight edge.
If you have more than one panel of the same size to cut, then you can use your first accurately cut board as a template to trim the others to size, without needing to set up the straight edge. Just clamp it to the board to be trimmed and use a trimming bit with a ball bearing follower. Very quick and easy. Wish I'd thought of doing it sooner for my project.
By the way, make sure your t-square is actually square. Most aren't when you get them from the shop. To check, put it against the straight side of a board and mark a perpendicular line. Then flip the square over and mark another line next to the first. If they are exactly parallel, then your t-square is good. If not, then you may need to file your t-square to true it up.
Mick
If you don't have any luck with the furniture man, and you have a router, C-clamps, a long straight edge and a tee-square, a good way to get accurate edges is as follows:
Mark out the size you want on the MDF with a pencil or scriber, making sure you are measuring parallel edges from the same perpendicular edge. Check it is square by measuring across each diagonal to make sure they are the same (for rectangles only - der). Cut the board to approximately the right size - ie just outside the lines (your furniture man has done this for you already). Clamp your ruler to the MDF an appropriate distance from this edge (this distance will be the distance from the edge of the router cutter to the edge of the router base). Run the router along the edge to trim it. You should only remove maybe 3mm max in doing this. This will give you a perpendicular and straight edge.
If you have more than one panel of the same size to cut, then you can use your first accurately cut board as a template to trim the others to size, without needing to set up the straight edge. Just clamp it to the board to be trimmed and use a trimming bit with a ball bearing follower. Very quick and easy. Wish I'd thought of doing it sooner for my project.
By the way, make sure your t-square is actually square. Most aren't when you get them from the shop. To check, put it against the straight side of a board and mark a perpendicular line. Then flip the square over and mark another line next to the first. If they are exactly parallel, then your t-square is good. If not, then you may need to file your t-square to true it up.
Mick
Yellow Pages Time...
I have heard that laser wood cutting is not too expensive.
And accurate to +/- 0.5 mm, and bevelled edges and complex curves are possible too.
Eric.
I have heard that laser wood cutting is not too expensive.
And accurate to +/- 0.5 mm, and bevelled edges and complex curves are possible too.
Eric.
😛
thansk for the help :-D
yes well im going back this afternoon now to see how he responds-as a total ;oh whoops i thoht it was not important lol
or if he acts stupid il ask for half my money(since the wood was free off cuts) and try someplace else.
til then i have some crapy bits of wood,i may have to shave them down with a table thingee with a rotating tube,that planes them down u know 😛
ITM you say/ il see if we have one,and ask about thier accuracy
(DUnedin)
thansk for the help :-D
yes well im going back this afternoon now to see how he responds-as a total ;oh whoops i thoht it was not important lol
or if he acts stupid il ask for half my money(since the wood was free off cuts) and try someplace else.
til then i have some crapy bits of wood,i may have to shave them down with a table thingee with a rotating tube,that planes them down u know 😛
ITM you say/ il see if we have one,and ask about thier accuracy
(DUnedin)
Attachments
Using a plane to trim MDF
In regards to cutting MDF, I find an electric plane is the best way to ensure accurate results. Since I don't have a good workshop with table saw, I need to rely on portable tools. These are the steps I use:
1. Cut the MDF roughly with a circular saw.
2. Trim to size with electric plane, making sure you keep the plane perpendicular to face.
3. If you are making braces or multiple pieces the same size, simply clamp them together and plane all to exactly the same size.
Works for me
Cheers
Pulse
In regards to cutting MDF, I find an electric plane is the best way to ensure accurate results. Since I don't have a good workshop with table saw, I need to rely on portable tools. These are the steps I use:
1. Cut the MDF roughly with a circular saw.
2. Trim to size with electric plane, making sure you keep the plane perpendicular to face.
3. If you are making braces or multiple pieces the same size, simply clamp them together and plane all to exactly the same size.
Works for me
Cheers
Pulse
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