You could also use barrel nuts, they kinda look the the hole in the legs of a 3 pin wallplugand then the hole is also threaded, this is where the screw goes through, so you have two holes meeting each other at 90 degrees, one with the round pin with the hole in and the other takes the screw from outside.
fine for assembly of KD furniture, etc, but I wouldn't suggest them for speaker enclosures
the two links by blakksheppe are probably your best bet - local is always good
Hurricane Nuts r
Hi there: Parts express sells a product they call "Hurricane Nuts r". Cataloge pg154, part number 081-1080/82/84 come in 8-32, 10-32 and 1/4-20. On the internet just put their part number in the search block. The copy states "...will hold torques that you can not imagine...see performance for yourself to believe their effectiveness." ...regardsMichael
Hi there: Parts express sells a product they call "Hurricane Nuts r". Cataloge pg154, part number 081-1080/82/84 come in 8-32, 10-32 and 1/4-20. On the internet just put their part number in the search block. The copy states "...will hold torques that you can not imagine...see performance for yourself to believe their effectiveness." ...regardsMichael
Hi there, me again...
Just getting to the fun part of my speaker project and am frustrated by these damn threaded inserts.
So far, two of them have twisted out when trying to lock down the back panel securely. I epoxied one of them back in but the resin ran into the threads, forcing me to drill it out and so I'll need to reseat a new one.
They are a pig to line up properly with the bolts... I have little margin for error and so need to have the panel lightly attached to ensure its square, and this risks accidentally gluing the panel to the cabinet - especially with the screwing action causing epoxy to ooze everywhere.
Does anyone have any tricks to ensure everything is lined up properly? Maybe I could use a thin rod the same diameter as the bolt... instead of the bolt? and guard against spillage by using a bit of sticky tape on the back panel that can easily be peeled and scraped away.
But even better would be something else other than threaded iserts - just can't think of any alternative.
BTW, before the inserts fell out, I got to listen to one of the speakers and I tell you what... it makes it all worth while! One of these loudspeakers completely annihilates both of the pioneer bookshelf speakers I was using.
(Its Tony Gee's LBS design)
Just getting to the fun part of my speaker project and am frustrated by these damn threaded inserts.
So far, two of them have twisted out when trying to lock down the back panel securely. I epoxied one of them back in but the resin ran into the threads, forcing me to drill it out and so I'll need to reseat a new one.
They are a pig to line up properly with the bolts... I have little margin for error and so need to have the panel lightly attached to ensure its square, and this risks accidentally gluing the panel to the cabinet - especially with the screwing action causing epoxy to ooze everywhere.
Does anyone have any tricks to ensure everything is lined up properly? Maybe I could use a thin rod the same diameter as the bolt... instead of the bolt? and guard against spillage by using a bit of sticky tape on the back panel that can easily be peeled and scraped away.
But even better would be something else other than threaded iserts - just can't think of any alternative.
BTW, before the inserts fell out, I got to listen to one of the speakers and I tell you what... it makes it all worth while! One of these loudspeakers completely annihilates both of the pioneer bookshelf speakers I was using.
(Its Tony Gee's LBS design)
Hows about this for a way forward?
Get a long cheap bolt that is the same size as the expensive bolts that I use for the panel. Angle grind off the head of the bolt so that it can thread completely thru the hole in the panel.
Screw the decapitated bolt into the threaded insert, put a small tab of sticky tape over the end of the insert where the bolt bottom is and epoxy in the nut and the bolt into the hole. The body of the bolt will stick thru the hole in the panel and so I can make sure the insert is not skewed. The bolt itself will prevent the epoxy from entering the threaded part of the insert.
Should work... in theory.
Get a long cheap bolt that is the same size as the expensive bolts that I use for the panel. Angle grind off the head of the bolt so that it can thread completely thru the hole in the panel.
Screw the decapitated bolt into the threaded insert, put a small tab of sticky tape over the end of the insert where the bolt bottom is and epoxy in the nut and the bolt into the hole. The body of the bolt will stick thru the hole in the panel and so I can make sure the insert is not skewed. The bolt itself will prevent the epoxy from entering the threaded part of the insert.
Should work... in theory.
I use the 6mm dowel system as shown by Zman01 reguraly for furniture, jigs etc (and the same dowel guide). A bit of gorilla glue on the thread when putting them in and you'll have no problems. If glue does get in any insert thread use a Tap and re-thread it, I always re tap any inserts after I have put them in as the little effert spent can save a lot of heart ache later on.
I have used the brass threaded inserts on MDF, when I do I drill the hole then seal it with Ronsel wet rot sealer, leave it dry a day or so then tap the hole, it will hold the thread a lot better.
Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener | Wood Filler Products | Ronseal
Used them on MDF and plywood with no problems, for panels use some neopreme gasket and you'll get a good seal.
I have used the brass threaded inserts on MDF, when I do I drill the hole then seal it with Ronsel wet rot sealer, leave it dry a day or so then tap the hole, it will hold the thread a lot better.
Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener | Wood Filler Products | Ronseal
Used them on MDF and plywood with no problems, for panels use some neopreme gasket and you'll get a good seal.
There actually is a clamp system made for holding mostly sheet metal parts in place before final attachment. But this system took me completely by surprise the first time I saw it. That was with decades of experience. So I can't reveal how it works or where to buy it so never look at McMaster-Carr
For thicker wood parts use dowels with a beveled edge and slotted end! (You insert a wedge in the end and can drive it in to hold until you pull out the dowel.)
For thicker wood parts use dowels with a beveled edge and slotted end! (You insert a wedge in the end and can drive it in to hold until you pull out the dowel.)
Last edited:
Thanks for the suggestions
Gorilla glue - huh? I know that it says it bonds metal on the bottle, but can its strength really compare with an epoxy?
I'm keen to avoid epoxy if possible, since its so sticky and difficult to apply neatly - but I'm also keen for the thread not to come out again.
The inserts I'm using are not the self tapping ones, but are "knock in", like this:
Gorilla glue - huh? I know that it says it bonds metal on the bottle, but can its strength really compare with an epoxy?
I'm keen to avoid epoxy if possible, since its so sticky and difficult to apply neatly - but I'm also keen for the thread not to come out again.
The inserts I'm using are not the self tapping ones, but are "knock in", like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
1. Put vaseline on inside threads. Epoxy wont stick.
2. No, Gorilla glue is not as strong as epoxy, but I have used it for metal to wood bonds.
Doc
2. No, Gorilla glue is not as strong as epoxy, but I have used it for metal to wood bonds.
Doc
When screwing an insert into the edge of MDF or plywood I take a a couple of scraps and clamp them on each side of the work so that driving in the insert doesn't split the work.
G²
Its been a long day for me...
On thinking back all those months since initial installation, yes, I did thread them in - but they still disintegrated the MDF and pulled out, making the hole bigger and turning them into knock ins.
The good news is that over the last couple of days I;ve bogged up the hole with that 2 pac hand kneadable epoxy stuff that sets like a rock, redrilled the hole and then threaded in a brand new one.
I think that this one will hold. If not, then a Vaseline smeared sawn off bolt inserted in should let me seat them straight.
Plastic masonry plugs work well in MDF. I've used them several times where MDF holes for drivers and removable back panels have stripped.
Ramset Australia
Ramset Australia
Billyo, if these are the ones you are using, they look a lot like self tapping ones. Knocking these in would indeed lead to a loose connection.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.