Hello,
I usually use wood as construction material for my amps, pre-amps, phono pre's.
I like the natural material and its much easier for me use. Well there's only problem to perfection...
How can I inscribe my panels for e.g. my pre-amp: "Phono MM", "Phone MC", "CD", "Volume" and so on....
I often use multiplex (plywood) birch, or beech.
Wood soaks up liquids, precise letters are not possible with standards pens.🙄
I tried tools as in the picture - but its not possible to maintain perfect alignment and the depth isn't low enough.
Do you use a better method ?
I usually use wood as construction material for my amps, pre-amps, phono pre's.
I like the natural material and its much easier for me use. Well there's only problem to perfection...
How can I inscribe my panels for e.g. my pre-amp: "Phono MM", "Phone MC", "CD", "Volume" and so on....
I often use multiplex (plywood) birch, or beech.
Wood soaks up liquids, precise letters are not possible with standards pens.🙄
I tried tools as in the picture - but its not possible to maintain perfect alignment and the depth isn't low enough.
Do you use a better method ?
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Hi
You could align the stamps on the picture between 2 sheets of metal,
heat them up with a hot air gun and make a branding in the wood…
Regards, Boris
You could align the stamps on the picture between 2 sheets of metal,
heat them up with a hot air gun and make a branding in the wood…
Regards, Boris
Hi Boris,
that's what I guessed too - maybe needs some trials before it works. I think I should hammer them just a tiny bit down to get an even contact of the letter to the wood.
I try to machine a rectangular frame for 10 letter stamps and a screw from the side to push them together, guess a good alignment is needed for a even "branding".
THX
that's what I guessed too - maybe needs some trials before it works. I think I should hammer them just a tiny bit down to get an even contact of the letter to the wood.
I try to machine a rectangular frame for 10 letter stamps and a screw from the side to push them together, guess a good alignment is needed for a even "branding".
THX
Trophy shops often have sandblast and/or laser engraving equipment that works beautifully for jobs like that.
Used a revising program on your computer & set-up to print your faceplate, next feed a piece of waxed paper through the printer (instead of regular printing paper) you will need to help it through by gently pulling the waxed paper through as it exits the printer, then line it up on your faceplate immediately without sliding it around (lay it straight down or you will smudge the ink, then take a credit card & draw it across the back of the waxed paper to transfer the ink into the wood. You have to be using unfinished wood or the ink won't soak in.
...or pay for laser engraving or water, very cool things can be done with that if your wood is hard enough to retain the details.
My engraver has a 1 x 1.5 M bed. It cost more than my car when I bought it 18 years ago. Today you can buy a DIY laser engraver kit for as low as $100. A decent one may run $300.00. I don't think they will get any cheaper. Best of all you can resell it for more than you paid for it after a few years.
The laser sounds like your best bet for direct engraving into wood - of course that'd need be done before final assembly / finishing.
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