How to hold large capacitors in place

[indianajo]

adhesive cap mount

Sy is right, liquid nails is a great adhesive. The trouble is, after you open a 14 oz tube, I find it is unusable the next day. For my non-travel amp (sits in the corner, no roadies) I used monkey-****, otherwise known as air conditioner duct putty. Clay plus oil. Held a cap down in the ST120 for 15 years. As far as kitchen & bath grade (rated 400 deg F) silicon I adhesive, I lost a front wheel bearing cover on the 59 Ford Christmas Eve north of Goodall TX. The modern replacement cap (HELP brand) was 1/32" smaller. I glued it on with the most popular 5 minute epoxy (something metal), let it dry 4 hours, it fell out immediately. I glued it again with GE kitchen & bath grade silicon seal, waited four hours (24 hour cure) and it was still stuck on 2 years later when I pulled it to repack the bearing. I don't drive gently or slowly, either. I keep a tube of bath&kitchen silicon seal going for projects like radiator hose sealing and valve covers, lawnmower carburators etc., and usually a 14 oz tube will last a year without drying up, if you plug the end with a screw.

 

[etoiledusoir]

What about using hose clamp with 90 degree aluminium angle or make hole in the botttom plate and mount the cap horizontaly.

 

[edusub]

Hello,

I was also thiking in where and how place new and bigger than the original caps in an old Marantz amp I'm modding. Original ones were 30mm. diameter and the new ones are 35mm. If put in the original place of the PCB they will be in contact with some other components such as resistors and diodes, which I don't like to prevent any shorcut or whatever problem.
The question is if those nylon square adhesive cable tie mounts

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

will support the possible heat generated by the caps. Just a note to say that original caps where 8200mF 56V. and new ones 12000mF 63V. If i'm not wrong, the voltage increase will prevent this possible extra hot?

Last question, is there any functional problem to place caps in horizontal position (instead of vertically as originally put on the PCB) attached to the chasis side, then wired to the PCB contacts?

Thanks for the help.

Edu

 

[glennb]

Automotive double sided tape, as used to stick on trims etc. Very strong, yet can still be removed with a bit of force, and does not leave any residue.

 

[DreadPirate]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned E-6000 or its cousins Shoe Goo and Goop. These are flexible like silicone (which I would not recommend, as it doesn't hold), but much, much stronger. You can actually use this stuff to reglue the bottom of jogging shoes and it holds like a dickens. You don't even have to scuff up the surfaces to be glued, it will hold nonetheless. It is solvent based (toluene, I think), so there could be some issues with it reacting with the board and it will be a bitch to remove if you ever have to. You can always lay the cap flat, drill holes on either side, and run a nylon tie around it, looks tidy. The mounting ring is best.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/