FYI there is SPEAKER A & B terminals on this JVC and I connected 4ohm speakers to terminal A and 4 ohm speakers to terminal B. So there is no "parallel" wired speakers here.
I might add that I have many other receivers here ALL rated for no lower than either 8 ohm on some or 4 ohm on others. And I drive lower than they are rated for hours and hours just fine. An amplifier is designed to output power, the ohm's of the speaker are like limiters, many amp IC's are designed to operate at 2/4/6/8/16 ohms... but once installed into a receiver the original manufacturer often installs a heatsink capable of only dissipating the heat of the IC running at 8ohms (sometimes 4 ohms), this is done to cut costs as most people don't use 4 or 2 ohm speakers because each time you step down in ohms it allows the amp IC to deliver more power thus generating more heat and drawing more current from the power supply. In most cases this is an EASY fix to simply add a PC fan blowing over the heatsinks. Now you can drive the IC's into 2 ohm speakers fine without the risk over overheating them! As for the power delivery, well often manufacturers will use the same power supplies for 3 models. For example I have a few Pioneer Elite's here that are in the same series/line (identical layout inside and same boards) aside from the DSP and the Amplifier/Heatsink which in higher end models is a higher wattage amp section YET they also use the same Transformers/power supply for multiple variations. Indicating that you can in fact run them at 2ohms if you compensate with proper heat disapation.
Even then, and most importantly I really could care less if I blow a receiver.... I have at least 17 or 18 of them here right now. Many of them I pick up from the backlane by the trash left there as "not working" and I repair it to working, others I pick up at the thrift store for $10-20. So it's not a big issue I am not working on some $3000 modern unit here so I truly don't care...
I might add there are people in the world who drive a "basic factory sports car" and there are people who "modify the factory specs" to push it to it's limits and beyond. I really don't see people running them down for wanting to get a little more power out of their vehicles.... so why are you running me down or making fun of me for trying to do the same? (While also trying to learn more skills by doing so.)
Take care now.
The only reason why drawing 20amps from 15amps circuit is an issue is HEAT. If you use wires capable of handling 20amp and outlets capable of 20amp then there is no issue... going up in amperage means you typically use thicker wire gauge capable of tolerating 20amps.
However in the case of audio amplifiers they don't really pump out much power to the speakers... (it's not like the wires get hot).
And we are talking like a 20 audio watts difference here anyways... receivers list watts like this 130w at 8 ohms 150w at 6 ohms 170w at 4 ohms etc.
But when you look up the specs of the actual power IC's used in these recievers, they will also list power at 2 ohms on their specs.
From what I can tell it's like this, an amp IC is designed to amplify a signal (which has nothing to do with ohms) the only roll ohm's plays with regards to an amp is how much the IC can give out of it's TOTAL power capability.
For example to manufacture a 130w at 8 ohm receiver the manufacturer MUST install around a 190-200w amp IC... that is because 8 ohm's limits the power the IC can push out to 130w. This is NOT an IC limitation, the limitation comes in when they decide to "brand it" as 8 ohms max load, and then they install a heatsink only capable of disipating 130w of heat. There for if you simply install a fan on the heatsink you are essentially cooling the IC enough now to run closer to it's full potential (so long as it remains within operating temperatures). (to get even more technical if they installed a 130w amp IC and intended it to be run at 8 ohms it would actually operate much lower like 80-90w)
The only other limiting factor then would be the power supply, however since we are only talking 20 watts of power jump between each 8 to 6 to 4 to 2 ohms step down then we really are not asking much more out of the power supply, and most power supplies are designed with more power capabilies than required to avoid overheating at the required power. There for there should be room to draw an extra 20 whole watts of audio power (which is not the same as wattage power) I'm sure you've often seen the back of a reciever say - it's power ratings like "Max 320 watts" yet the audio "wattage" is rated as 100w per channel x 7 (that would be 700w's) but the amplifier only draws 320watts... there for the wattage drain on the power supply is much lower than the outputted audio wattage. And that involves math/calculations blah blah... but all in all a 20w of audio power jump is only going to ask for like 6-8watts more off the power supply.
And that brings me to the MOST CRUCIAL point everyone here seems to have overlooked!!!
This reciever's power supply is designed to run MULTIPLE channels at 130w each... and I am only running 2! There for the power supply is going to have PLENTLY of power left for me to push the 2 channels at 4 ohms (aka 150w) since the other channels are not being used!
Anyways, thanks for your concern. (and your sarcasim is noted)
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