Hi.
I got some speakers on Black Friday for like 7€/piece. So I got 4 Tangband W6-658A mids and some TB 25-3025 tweets.
I decided to make a t-line for the mids, as I have never done one, and I'd like to get the most bass extension out of these, to not necessarily need a sub.
I have space, about 50-60l seems good per speaker and seems to be enough also.
Here is a somewhat final design as for the parameters:
I noticed that I can make the line shorter and overall smaller by making it larger at the beginning and smaller at the end, so I get a tuning of about 44Hz with only 53l.
But now the problem. I planned on making these floorstanders, to get the line output at the floor for the most boundary gain and to not need any kind of stands to make them more rugged.
But the line is so short, that I can't get any folds. Mostly like the one 90 degree fold for the "port" output to come out at the front.
But I have heard that some amount of folds is good for t-lines to mask those resonances. Then the top end would be a lot deeper than the bottom, also making them more unstable, but I didn't want the port up top.
I'd like them to be about 1m tall, but taller could also work.
Should the output "port" be at the front or rear? I'd think the front as I'd like to possibly place them closer to the wall in the future.
So the problem really is, how, if at all, should I fold these and make them?
I got some speakers on Black Friday for like 7€/piece. So I got 4 Tangband W6-658A mids and some TB 25-3025 tweets.
I decided to make a t-line for the mids, as I have never done one, and I'd like to get the most bass extension out of these, to not necessarily need a sub.
I have space, about 50-60l seems good per speaker and seems to be enough also.
Here is a somewhat final design as for the parameters:
I noticed that I can make the line shorter and overall smaller by making it larger at the beginning and smaller at the end, so I get a tuning of about 44Hz with only 53l.
But now the problem. I planned on making these floorstanders, to get the line output at the floor for the most boundary gain and to not need any kind of stands to make them more rugged.
But the line is so short, that I can't get any folds. Mostly like the one 90 degree fold for the "port" output to come out at the front.
But I have heard that some amount of folds is good for t-lines to mask those resonances. Then the top end would be a lot deeper than the bottom, also making them more unstable, but I didn't want the port up top.
I'd like them to be about 1m tall, but taller could also work.
Should the output "port" be at the front or rear? I'd think the front as I'd like to possibly place them closer to the wall in the future.
So the problem really is, how, if at all, should I fold these and make them?
At the frequencies involved, as long a rear vent not right up against a wall, it makes little difference.
Yes, bends can help act as a LP, but it is minor.
The biggest issue given the taper is that the base will be smaller than the top. I have seem it done with interesting results.
Have you considered an ML-TL?
dave
Yes, bends can help act as a LP, but it is minor.
The biggest issue given the taper is that the base will be smaller than the top. I have seem it done with interesting results.
Have you considered an ML-TL?
dave
Okay so if the "port" is say 8cm tall and that is the smallest side, it should be enough if I leave only 10cm between it and the rear wall?
This would also be better as I should get more room gain that way? And best case scenario I could EQ down the bass and play them louder as they are quite weak drivers.
"Port" facing the rear should also be more of an LPF right?
The size difference was just what I was also thinking about. I mean I could just make the sides square according to the top, but I'd have to fiddle in hornresp to see if that "extra space" could add more boost or extension instead of being dead space.
The drivers having to be offset also might be an issue and I might need to make the towers taller to get the tweeter at the right height.
I have considered an MLTL, but I forgot it as many said it will act as a normal reflex design if not long enough, and then it won't be any smaller than a TL.
I also wanted to get rid of ports, not to have to worry about port compression, because I'd need at least 4" ports for these already, and those cost more than the drivers.
I gave thot to rectangular sides, the dead space on the bck will not be an issue.
Those that say an ML-TL is a reflex are out-to-lunch. Martin King clearly showed the differences between an ML-TL and a reflex of the same size.
dave
Those that say an ML-TL is a reflex are out-to-lunch. Martin King clearly showed the differences between an ML-TL and a reflex of the same size.
dave