@djk: That's exactly the sort of info I was looking for. I will Likely order a supply of everything you suggest.
While I'm at it, I want to order some PCB etching supplies to experiment with. I plan to try the laser printer method. It just looks simpler. Any suggestions for a kit or something that has everything one needs short of the printer itself, or is it better to just get everything individually?
I currently have an inkjet printer, so I am going to have to find an inexpensive laser printer for this. I have heard some can print on solid material with the right tray, thus saving a few steps. Any thoughts?
While I'm at it, I want to order some PCB etching supplies to experiment with. I plan to try the laser printer method. It just looks simpler. Any suggestions for a kit or something that has everything one needs short of the printer itself, or is it better to just get everything individually?
I currently have an inkjet printer, so I am going to have to find an inexpensive laser printer for this. I have heard some can print on solid material with the right tray, thus saving a few steps. Any thoughts?
Alright, I'm browsing Mouser and there must be 20 different 2n5551 variants, and while all are pretty cheap, they are quite a bit different in price. How much should I worry about the different suffixes on the end of the part numbers? Is a 2n5551 the same as a 2n5551BU for my purposes? What about all the others? I assume all the transistors are going to have a similar selection of variants. I'm tempted just to pick the cheapest ones that aren't in some weird package, but I thought I should check first.
I assume "cut tape" just means its a section taken off a full reel, right?
I assume "cut tape" just means its a section taken off a full reel, right?
The "Electronics" part of your cost is nil (say, 20% of total).
Hardware carries the big ticket prices.
1) be certain of what you want to build.
Specially define the power you will use now.
Forget "scaling" , it does not work that way.
As I said, "buying parts I can use in my next project" is not that important since you will have to buy a new larger transformer ($$$), larger heatsinks ($$$), probably a larger chassis ($$$) and so on.
2) besides defining power, start with something you can build successfully today.
Tomorrow is tomorrow.
Enjoy what you can do today and build it with love.
You'll feel very well
Biting more than you can chew the first time may turn this into a frustration ... who wants that?
Enjoy it step by step.
Good luck.
Hardware carries the big ticket prices.
1) be certain of what you want to build.
Specially define the power you will use now.
Forget "scaling" , it does not work that way.
As I said, "buying parts I can use in my next project" is not that important since you will have to buy a new larger transformer ($$$), larger heatsinks ($$$), probably a larger chassis ($$$) and so on.
2) besides defining power, start with something you can build successfully today.
Tomorrow is tomorrow.
Enjoy what you can do today and build it with love.
You'll feel very well
Biting more than you can chew the first time may turn this into a frustration ... who wants that?
Enjoy it step by step.
Good luck.
As far as the hardware costs go, the drummer in my band owns a metal fabrication company. Even when I beg he won't charge me for work! So chassis is covered. I have scavenged a few heatsinks of various sizes from some scrap amps. At least one is decent sized.
Transformers unfortunately are a cost, but remember, I'm used to tube amps that require 2 large spendy trannys.
Transformers unfortunately are a cost, but remember, I'm used to tube amps that require 2 large spendy trannys.
"Forget "scaling" , it does not work that way."
But it does.
I can name you over a dozen Crown models that use the same circuit board, many McIntosh models, BGW, AB International, three amplifier models I designed, etc. Musical Concepts sells a replacement/upgrade driver board for the Hafler DH200, 220, 280, 500, and 600 that needs only one resistor value change.
But it does.
I can name you over a dozen Crown models that use the same circuit board, many McIntosh models, BGW, AB International, three amplifier models I designed, etc. Musical Concepts sells a replacement/upgrade driver board for the Hafler DH200, 220, 280, 500, and 600 that needs only one resistor value change.
Dear djk , please don't twist the meaning of what I suggested Dan Moos, who's just starting and may be confused by this.
He wants to start "small" and up-scale, with the specific hope to "save on his next build" and "diminish shipping costs/hassle".
Just reread his posts, he says it plainly.
And in that specific situation, what I suggested holds true.
What you mention, and which holds true in Industry, is to down-scale , the exact opposite concept.
There you start with the largest, meanest one, (of course, the opposite would be silly, hope you agree with this) , and "load it less" for a smaller version.
As in making a pcb which holds 8 TO247 devices, filtered with, say, 4 x 100000uF x 100V capacitors and a 1000VA transformer, and for a lower power/cheaper version load it with 4 or 2 , use 2 x 4700uFx63V and feed it from a 250 V.A. transformer.
Fine, I do it myself.
My bread and butter guitar amp is the 100W head ... I use the exact same parts, including the transformer, in the 60W combo, just load it with a single 8 ohms speaker , instead of two of them for optimum 4 ohms load.
Down-grade works fine.
But for the 200W amp I don't piggyback more transistors into the same board, nor tape/epoxy extra capacitors in parallel with the original ones nor use 2 100W transformers in parallel.
Just use a different (larger) PCB, and a different, larger transformer.
Up-grading is more complex.
But the main point is that the Industry manufactures a new, different amp with all new stuff; Crown (as an example) is not getting a bunch of unsold D60 collecting dust in a forgotten warehouse and turning them into M2000 or something
While our friend Dan Moos will build a certain amp and hopes to reuse some of its parts for a future, larger one.
Personally, if a guy has a simple bike and wants to upgrade, I suggest a mountain bike or something, the next logic step, and not "get a Harley Davidson and pull the engine".
By the way, Dan Moos has made you a question which still lies unanswered.
He wants to start "small" and up-scale, with the specific hope to "save on his next build" and "diminish shipping costs/hassle".
Just reread his posts, he says it plainly.
And in that specific situation, what I suggested holds true.
What you mention, and which holds true in Industry, is to down-scale , the exact opposite concept.
There you start with the largest, meanest one, (of course, the opposite would be silly, hope you agree with this) , and "load it less" for a smaller version.
As in making a pcb which holds 8 TO247 devices, filtered with, say, 4 x 100000uF x 100V capacitors and a 1000VA transformer, and for a lower power/cheaper version load it with 4 or 2 , use 2 x 4700uFx63V and feed it from a 250 V.A. transformer.
Fine, I do it myself.
My bread and butter guitar amp is the 100W head ... I use the exact same parts, including the transformer, in the 60W combo, just load it with a single 8 ohms speaker , instead of two of them for optimum 4 ohms load.
Down-grade works fine.
But for the 200W amp I don't piggyback more transistors into the same board, nor tape/epoxy extra capacitors in parallel with the original ones nor use 2 100W transformers in parallel.
Just use a different (larger) PCB, and a different, larger transformer.
Up-grading is more complex.
But the main point is that the Industry manufactures a new, different amp with all new stuff; Crown (as an example) is not getting a bunch of unsold D60 collecting dust in a forgotten warehouse and turning them into M2000 or something
While our friend Dan Moos will build a certain amp and hopes to reuse some of its parts for a future, larger one.
Personally, if a guy has a simple bike and wants to upgrade, I suggest a mountain bike or something, the next logic step, and not "get a Harley Davidson and pull the engine".
By the way, Dan Moos has made you a question which still lies unanswered.
The many listings for 2N5551 include one listing for every manufacturer, some of which are not in stock or obsolete. There are Lead Free (ROHS) versions, bulk or tape and reel, and lead form options. There are sometimes military or burn-in versions. The suffix letters change from vendor to vendor. Your best option is to select only in-stock listings and go for the lowest price that can be purchased in low quantities.
Not to worry fellas, I have been able to follow both your notions. I do think djk has the right idea as to what I'm after though.
I am not going to build a PCB based amp at 20 watts and hope to "scale it up". This will be strictly breadboard based for the first few iterations. I just wanted to know what parts to order that could have application in a wide array of power levels. I assumed initially that there would be no problem buying parts that can handle the upper end of power levels, but would still be suitable in a smaller scale but completely separate build. It appears this indeed is possible. I guess in that way I am trying to order "big", but at first "build small".
While I'm relatively new to solid state, and completely new to hi-fi, this is far from my first rodeo in the electronics game, so I'm not worried about being confused on this matter!
Thanks for everyone's help!
I am not going to build a PCB based amp at 20 watts and hope to "scale it up". This will be strictly breadboard based for the first few iterations. I just wanted to know what parts to order that could have application in a wide array of power levels. I assumed initially that there would be no problem buying parts that can handle the upper end of power levels, but would still be suitable in a smaller scale but completely separate build. It appears this indeed is possible. I guess in that way I am trying to order "big", but at first "build small".
While I'm relatively new to solid state, and completely new to hi-fi, this is far from my first rodeo in the electronics game, so I'm not worried about being confused on this matter!
Thanks for everyone's help!
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