What is the best configuration for a 10-channel gainclone? The only limitation I have is that it all has to be in one chassis. I will be using Brian's premium kits. Should I go with monoblock configurations, or would there be no point since I am not using separate enclosures? Here are three different layouts I came up with (layout from the top then the front):
Monoblock configuration. Danger of interference because everything is so close together?
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One toroid per two channels, but still separate rectifiers per channel. Better than monoblock configuration above?
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One huge toroid for all ten channels, but still separate rectifiers per channel.
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Or, should I go even simpler and only use one rectifier per two channels for a total of five rectifiers? Maybe something completely different?
Thanks for the help!
--Ferdi
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Monoblock configuration. Danger of interference because everything is so close together?
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
One toroid per two channels, but still separate rectifiers per channel. Better than monoblock configuration above?
----------------------------------------
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
One huge toroid for all ten channels, but still separate rectifiers per channel.
----------------------------------------
Or, should I go even simpler and only use one rectifier per two channels for a total of five rectifiers? Maybe something completely different?
Thanks for the help!
--Ferdi
My un-romantic choice would be 1 big toroid at least 500VA & 1 bridge made from 4 schottky diodes. Go nuts on big caps. Use a pair of smaller caps at every chip. Very dull perhaps, 🙄 but technically very sound.
why seperate rectifiers?? I see no advantage over single bigger rectifiers...other than increasing costs..
I'm for it...get some big caps for the PSU section...then near the ICs just use some 1000uFs to bypass...
Ok, so basically I should make my own huge single rectifier and forget using Brian's power supply PCBs? That'll save lots of $$$ 🙂. So far, I have only ever used 'pre-packaged' bridges, but I am guessing that building my own discrete bridge should be much better. But, I am not sure which exact diodes to use, is there a preferred brand? Also, what current rating, power rating, and voltage rating do I need to use; I plan to use a 22volt toroid?
I assume that this is what I will be building:
How large should the caps be? As large as possible?
And, what do you mean by "then near the ICs just use some 1000uFs to bypass...". Do you mean the two 1500uFs that are used on Brian's PCB or something else?
Sorry for the long post, but I want to get everything right...the first time 🙂.
--Ferdi
I assume that this is what I will be building:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
How large should the caps be? As large as possible?
And, what do you mean by "then near the ICs just use some 1000uFs to bypass...". Do you mean the two 1500uFs that are used on Brian's PCB or something else?
Sorry for the long post, but I want to get everything right...the first time 🙂.
--Ferdi
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