help the intermittent dimming yeh. id still not be happy if my lights were permanently a bit down. could well be working perfectly though, have you checked the voltage drop accross ur lights with and without all the audio stuff working?
Steve
Steve
no, i havent checked the voltage. It all works, and I don't notice the dimming, so I'm not gonna worry about it.
Before I got the cap, I was getting noise from the stock head unit. After I put in the cap, the noise was gone.
Before I got the cap, I was getting noise from the stock head unit. After I put in the cap, the noise was gone.
noise? ewwwwwww! must have been some random RF getting in on the power lines that the caps filtered out a bit 
what about my system. I'm having a little trouble with my setup (well, not a big one) just slight dimming of the headlinghts (and/or dome lights) when I turn the volume about 70% up. the output of the alternator never goes below 14V with the aircon off (even with the stereo turned up loud) otherwise it sticks to 13.6V constant with the A/C on.
I have two amps with a total of 440watts RMS and a 60A main fuse for both amps (each amp fused individually with a 35A and 25A)
I was thinking of adding a cap to that..... if it's worth it. running out of space at the cargo area. (SUV)
I have two amps with a total of 440watts RMS and a 60A main fuse for both amps (each amp fused individually with a 35A and 25A)
I was thinking of adding a cap to that..... if it's worth it. running out of space at the cargo area. (SUV)
am still not any wiser! a cap is better for more short term volts i think but a second or bigger battery wil supply more current, i think the cost of caps are to much for there performance, i think i may just get another battery.
sss said:
Why is that? I only want it for a second dedicated amplifier.
I though that i would have it on a relay for charging so when i though it was down a little i could flick a switch and start to charge it? very crude i know, but i think it would be ok,
Or should i get a charging circuit dedicated for it?
an additional battery means an additional load for the alternator.
because your original alternator is designed to charge one battery, adding another means you need an alternator that can charge two batteries.
because your original alternator is designed to charge one battery, adding another means you need an alternator that can charge two batteries.
a bad idea !Paradise_Ice said:
can u get a switch rated for 60-80A or so, if u can it will be werry expensive
besides as far as i know anyone with an amp rated 600W+ got higher power alternator also
when higher power alternator is connected the lights will also stop dimming (or at least dimm less) with no help of extra battery or big cap
djQUAN said:
i was thinking i could use a split charger?
something like this, I jsut dont know what which is best?
A battery sensed or a machine sensed?
http://www.indexmarine.co.uk/pages/battman.htm
sss said:
I though i could use 3 relays in parallel, so for 30 amps per relay i could pass 90 amps of current,
am told altenators have most of there power wasted in normal charging circuits? i dont know if that is true or false?
lets see :
charging system + 3 30A relays +another battery ......
why dont u want to add a simple cap ?
charging system + 3 30A relays +another battery ......
why dont u want to add a simple cap ?
kilowattski said:You guys are all going to go deaf.
sss said:lets see :
charging system + 3 30A relays +another battery ......
why dont u want to add a simple cap ?
I dont want to be the car! its for a show car , my car has an old electrical system and it wont handle large current draw, a 1990 Saab 900, so i need a second battery, i cap am told is pretty rubbish?
I dont want to damage my electrical system or damge any wires!
I cant afford to rewire an old car?
u need high power only for the "show" so i think that wont be a problem , after the "show" 🙂)) u can remove the battery without charging 2 at once
Thats a good idea SSS!
Just for the show but the main amplifier will always be in the car, it is over 1 metre long with 48 mosfet transistors per side, its long and slim! and it draws to much current,
I think for the show a second battery is a very good idea, but i would want to charge it from the cars altenator, its would be less trouble in my life! and i have lots of trouble guys.
I dont like to much loud bass but people want to see what my subwoofers can do so they want to hear the limit.
I dont, i like sweety soft music!
Just for the show but the main amplifier will always be in the car, it is over 1 metre long with 48 mosfet transistors per side, its long and slim! and it draws to much current,
I think for the show a second battery is a very good idea, but i would want to charge it from the cars altenator, its would be less trouble in my life! and i have lots of trouble guys.
I dont like to much loud bass but people want to see what my subwoofers can do so they want to hear the limit.
I dont, i like sweety soft music!
i got a better idea now 😀
u can make a charging system that will limit the current to the secondary battery , that way u wont damage the electrical system .
it will take longer to charge the second battery but i guess thats ok 🙂
u can make a charging system that will limit the current to the secondary battery , that way u wont damage the electrical system .
it will take longer to charge the second battery but i guess thats ok 🙂
since you won't be pumping the system hard while on the road (as I assume) you can have only one battery then power the system with a SMPS (there are many big ones available for this purpose) from an AC wall outlet during shows. that way, you can pump out loud all day long without draining the battery.
simple as it may sound, it is not gonna be a simple solution. you will add a lot more equipment than you might think and I don't know if there are ones available for your purpose.
is the brand of your amp Memphis? that's the only one I know with a long slim amp.
I do. 🙂 and I only have 2 10's in the car. but now got some better subs. now it goes really loud.
simple as it may sound, it is not gonna be a simple solution. you will add a lot more equipment than you might think and I don't know if there are ones available for your purpose.
is the brand of your amp Memphis? that's the only one I know with a long slim amp.
I do. 🙂 and I only have 2 10's in the car. but now got some better subs. now it goes really loud.
Thanks for your advice djQUAN
I have ear plugs in my car! i dont need loud its just to show other people, your right about the charging system,
I think i will get a second battery, i just dont want anymore weight in the car, The amplifier is a Visonik,a V290 its not a high quality amplifier but i only got it because it was very cheap and powerful, i ahve upgrader the transistors and capacitors, it sounds much better now!
I think one 12 inch woofer is enough, it can be over 120db, i really dont want to damage my hearing!
I can replace the subwoofers, i cant replace my ears!
I have ear plugs in my car! i dont need loud its just to show other people, your right about the charging system,
I think i will get a second battery, i just dont want anymore weight in the car, The amplifier is a Visonik,a V290 its not a high quality amplifier but i only got it because it was very cheap and powerful, i ahve upgrader the transistors and capacitors, it sounds much better now!
I think one 12 inch woofer is enough, it can be over 120db, i really dont want to damage my hearing!
I can replace the subwoofers, i cant replace my ears!
Attachments
Ther has Been a lot of grat advice poested but this is my 2 cents.
I would first try the inexpensive stuff first. Get a few pices of 4 guage wire and up grade the following connections:
A) Ground between the battery and the chassis
B) The chargeing wire between the altanator (this is probably where the weak link is in your system.)
C) The Ground between the Engine and the chassis. (a Side effect of this will be a Slight increase in performance. NOTICE I said slight.)
once I had gone that route then you might want to constier Caps Spare batteries ect.
The reason I said this was because it would only cost you about 20$USD and it might take care of your problem instead of the other 100$USD+ options.
another option is if you have a shop near by that rebuilds altinators. if they are a reputable Shop and know what they are doing they can wind you a beefieer alt for a little extra $$.
I would first try the inexpensive stuff first. Get a few pices of 4 guage wire and up grade the following connections:
A) Ground between the battery and the chassis
B) The chargeing wire between the altanator (this is probably where the weak link is in your system.)
C) The Ground between the Engine and the chassis. (a Side effect of this will be a Slight increase in performance. NOTICE I said slight.)
once I had gone that route then you might want to constier Caps Spare batteries ect.
The reason I said this was because it would only cost you about 20$USD and it might take care of your problem instead of the other 100$USD+ options.
another option is if you have a shop near by that rebuilds altinators. if they are a reputable Shop and know what they are doing they can wind you a beefieer alt for a little extra $$.
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