About to build my first DIY active home sub, not decided fully on 10" or 12" yet. My dad had 2 8s about 25yrs ago in his truck and said that was plenty, so he's not sure how big he'll let me go because I'll shake the house lol... I'm planning on putting this into a car when I get one, so I want to keep it pretty small.
If someone could give me a quick run down of how loud and low I should be aiming for that'd be nice. Planning on using either the rockford P1S4-10 or P1S4-12, but I'm leaning towards the 12 for the bit extra low end. Ideally I'd use a 2.5ft^3 ported box tuned to 30hz, that's what I'd tuned for initially, but then I realised that a car would be really impractical with such a big box.
Putting 200W into the 12" model in a 1.2ft^3 box tuned to 35hz, it's getting 101db at 30Hz and it peaks at 109db from 40-70hz. All measured at 1m. Using a 4" port, velocities are under 20m/s even at 300W, so chuffing isn't going to be a problem. Just wondering if that'll be enough to feel it in your chest and get a good rumble when watching movies or listening to music.
If someone could give me a quick run down of how loud and low I should be aiming for that'd be nice. Planning on using either the rockford P1S4-10 or P1S4-12, but I'm leaning towards the 12 for the bit extra low end. Ideally I'd use a 2.5ft^3 ported box tuned to 30hz, that's what I'd tuned for initially, but then I realised that a car would be really impractical with such a big box.
Putting 200W into the 12" model in a 1.2ft^3 box tuned to 35hz, it's getting 101db at 30Hz and it peaks at 109db from 40-70hz. All measured at 1m. Using a 4" port, velocities are under 20m/s even at 300W, so chuffing isn't going to be a problem. Just wondering if that'll be enough to feel it in your chest and get a good rumble when watching movies or listening to music.
Well, with HT being more the norm nowadays, 115 dB/listening position/20-120 Hz is normally plenty for most folks.
Chest/thump is in the ~20-35 Hz BW, so best to have good room gain and/or more and/or larger subwoofers to get the necessary acoustic pressure. FWIW it took a stereo pair of dual 15" vent tuned ~20 ft^3 cabs flat to 14 Hz to get a satisfying performance in my somewhat open space.
Chest/thump is in the ~20-35 Hz BW, so best to have good room gain and/or more and/or larger subwoofers to get the necessary acoustic pressure. FWIW it took a stereo pair of dual 15" vent tuned ~20 ft^3 cabs flat to 14 Hz to get a satisfying performance in my somewhat open space.
You should be able to feel 101dB at 30Hz as a good rumble and 109dB from 40-70Hz in your chest at one meter.
In an enclosed car, the low end may be as much as 10 dB louder.
In a house, the response can vary quite a bit depending on the room dimensions and your distance.
My significant other complains from outside on the porch when the bass hits around 105 dB in my office, she would not be happy at GM's suggested level
.
In an enclosed car, the low end may be as much as 10 dB louder.
In a house, the response can vary quite a bit depending on the room dimensions and your distance.
My significant other complains from outside on the porch when the bass hits around 105 dB in my office, she would not be happy at GM's suggested level
.Thanks. If I put it as close to I can in my corner I can hopefully get a couple db extra, I can mess around and see what's best for me.
I've messed around with different sizes and I've settled on a 1.35ft^3 box tuned to 33hz. 103db @ 30hz and 110db @ 43+. Like @weltersys said, once I put it in a car I'll be around the 115db mark anyways.
Would you consider bracing my box that much if I'm only pushing 250W? And what is the easiest way to brace it if I do need to? I'll be using 3/4" MDF all round but maybe 1.5" on the front face if I have enough left over.
@BP1Fanatic , ideally I'd like it to have decent above 30-35hz, over 100db, there's no need to go much lower really. It's gonna have to be quite small too, less than 1.5ft^3, so that I can fit it in a car. After messing around I've settled on 1.35ft^3, 33hz tune, 1 3.7" port. Built it up in subbox.pro and it looks like it'll be fine. Also don't want any angles just because it's easier
If there any ways to make it a bit louder without sacrificing the low tuning or making it significantly larger that'd be great. Port length is also a big issue because I'll be 3d printing it, anything above 17" will be a struggle.
If there any ways to make it a bit louder without sacrificing the low tuning or making it significantly larger that'd be great. Port length is also a big issue because I'll be 3d printing it, anything above 17" will be a struggle.
A box that small made from plywood you could get by without bracing, with MDF something like this would do:
Dowels could be used for the bracing if you don't want to rip lumber to size.
Don't know the cost difference between the Rockford P1S4-10 and P1S4-12, but a pair of the 10" in two smaller boxes would have a lot more output, be more efficient, and could be positioned to counteract room modes.
Agreed. A 10" in front of each tail light will still give you good trunk space.
I did a 12" on the passenger side tail light of my wife's 1995 Dodge Neon Sport 4dr years ago. She loved it. Of course, she blew a couple of driver's tho'. That's another reason why I hate sealed enclosures. The driver's vented pole piece does not get cool air in a sealed enclosure, with normal mounting.
I did a 12" on the passenger side tail light of my wife's 1995 Dodge Neon Sport 4dr years ago. She loved it. Of course, she blew a couple of driver's tho'. That's another reason why I hate sealed enclosures. The driver's vented pole piece does not get cool air in a sealed enclosure, with normal mounting.