A few ideas came to mind. Have you looked at tv speaker modules on Parts Express? They are using small drivers and passive radiators. You would have to duplicate the enclosure size. It's entirely possible to get good sound from a 3 or 3.5" full range or 2 way system but it depends on what you want. 20 Hz bass is probably not going to happen. 80 Hz is more practical to acheive.
If you have a subwoofer facing the rear, that will be OK but you need to cross it over fairly low and have any mid-bass and up in the front. 2-3 inch full range with a 5 1/4 sub in the rear would work but the physical box design with separate space might be difficult. I would still consider stereo 3 inch full range speakers in a ported box or with a rear-facing passive radiator. Did you determine if you can remove the original baffle? If you can, take a picture of the inside and provide some measurements.
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If you have a subwoofer facing the rear, that will be OK but you need to cross it over fairly low and have any mid-bass and up in the front. 2-3 inch full range with a 5 1/4 sub in the rear would work but the physical box design with separate space might be difficult. I would still consider stereo 3 inch full range speakers in a ported box or with a rear-facing passive radiator. Did you determine if you can remove the original baffle? If you can, take a picture of the inside and provide some measurements.
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Skyler, note that if you rear mount the drivers then you only need the rubber surround to fit and not necessarily the whole frame.
If you can find a co-axial speaker that fits, that it still a good idea.
But you should also be able to get these drivers to fit as well:
2 x Dayton ND91 8 or 4ohm
or
2 x Aura NS3
plus 1 x Dayton ND16FA
or
Vifa OX20
or
Vifa OT19
Put the woofers side by each and the tweeter high and in between them. Not perfect as the higher xo points needed with these little tweeters will result in a little horizontal comb filtering (the ND19 needing a higher xo point than the other 2) but I don't think you are going for the highest fidelity here. In other words, perhaps an acceptable compromise. But those little woofers are quite exceptional. You will be amazed.
Run them in mono if you have to but having a (hidden?) 2nd speaker somewhere else for true stereo is also a rather creative and good idea. That'll get you a little more SPL too.
If you can find a co-axial speaker that fits, that it still a good idea.
But you should also be able to get these drivers to fit as well:
2 x Dayton ND91 8 or 4ohm
or
2 x Aura NS3
plus 1 x Dayton ND16FA
or
Vifa OX20
or
Vifa OT19
Put the woofers side by each and the tweeter high and in between them. Not perfect as the higher xo points needed with these little tweeters will result in a little horizontal comb filtering (the ND19 needing a higher xo point than the other 2) but I don't think you are going for the highest fidelity here. In other words, perhaps an acceptable compromise. But those little woofers are quite exceptional. You will be amazed.
Run them in mono if you have to but having a (hidden?) 2nd speaker somewhere else for true stereo is also a rather creative and good idea. That'll get you a little more SPL too.
I don't know about that i haven't heard the FR89. But i have had lots of FR88s thru here. They are pretty good but for the kind of money they cost you can do better (ie FF85wk or Alpair 5.2).
But for this kind of ap you should look for drivers wih Qt between .65 and .8 or so and then you can get away with no internal box at all essentially loading them open baffle (or leaky box with the back on).
An amp of 10+10w is more like the optimum power needed.
dave
Power handling is an irrelevant (and somewhat meaningless given no standards) specification. Pay no attention to it.
The specs say 20w a a more reasonable spec (w 20V). Less with lower voltages.
dave
Erik, after your help, and comments from others, I am going to abandon this idea. Although your idea is a good one to have a second enclosure, it defeats the original idea. I wont be able to get acceptable sound from the old radio enclosure alone, and so I will forego the plan. It has been a good learning experience, I met some knowledgeable, helpful people like yourself, and got motivated to read Introduction to Loudspeaker Design by John Murphy.
I walk away from the experience more knowledgeable and grateful to see people so kindly share their expertise...
No problems Skyler. I did learn something since we chatted. WinISD is a great way to simulate enclosures. It's let me examine the difference between say, an ideal cabinet and what I could buy from Dayton and try out different configurations for my home theater center. It's free and I recommend it for your next project.
Best,
Erik
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