I’m getting a big dip I my response in my 3 way center.
The two 8ohm woofers ran in parallel are using one 8mh iron core inductor for the crossover and I’m thinking the polarity might be better flipped.
How do you flip the polarity on two drivers ran in parallel with an inductor on the positive leads coming out?
All of the speakers are ran out to the same red/black in this 3 way.
Do I just run the positive coming off the inductor into the whole system’s negative and negative into the whole systems positive?
The big dip is in the 200-700 range so I’m assuming these woofers are inverse of the midrange?
The two 8ohm woofers ran in parallel are using one 8mh iron core inductor for the crossover and I’m thinking the polarity might be better flipped.
How do you flip the polarity on two drivers ran in parallel with an inductor on the positive leads coming out?
All of the speakers are ran out to the same red/black in this 3 way.
Do I just run the positive coming off the inductor into the whole system’s negative and negative into the whole systems positive?
The big dip is in the 200-700 range so I’m assuming these woofers are inverse of the midrange?
Reverse the midrange driver's polarity instead. If that works out, you may want to also reverse
the tweeter's polarity.
The woofers have to be connected in the same absolute polarity as the left and right woofers,
so keep the woofers the same.
the tweeter's polarity.
The woofers have to be connected in the same absolute polarity as the left and right woofers,
so keep the woofers the same.
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Yes, odd order crossovers (first, third) have all the drivers connected in phase.
Even order (second) have the midrange connected in reverse phase.
Crossover Tables
Even order (second) have the midrange connected in reverse phase.
Crossover Tables
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That's a second order crossover. The woofers have just an inductor in series, but the woofers' HF rolloff
combines with the inductor to make a second order filter as well. So when conecting the crossover,
reverse only the midrange phase. Connect the woofers and tweeter in positive phase, the same as the
left and right speakers..
combines with the inductor to make a second order filter as well. So when conecting the crossover,
reverse only the midrange phase. Connect the woofers and tweeter in positive phase, the same as the
left and right speakers..
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Thanks for your help. I just called the designer and he said the same thing. Would of been good if he wrote that on the diagram for me ��
Can I just flip the polarity on the midrange speaker terminals? It’s all soldered together and that would be the easiest way.
The designer of that crossover said to not flip it on the speaker terminals but after the crossover where all the other speakers connect to the binding posts. Does it matter ?
Is an 8mH coil not somewhat big with the two drivers parallel? Sure they don’t have to be switched in series?
I think you misunderstood. The two wires between the crossover and the midrange driver
are the ones to flip. At either end is ok, but at the driver will be much easier.
Don't change anything else.
They are crossed to the mid very low out of the a lot mids. 4 ohm for those two drivers in parallel. I think that’s 150-200hz?
We mean the wires that actually connect to the mid driver terminals - those are the ones you swap around.
In other words, the wire that presently goes to the mid's positive terminal should be swapped to the mid's negative terminal and vice versa.
Geddit now?
In other words, the wire that presently goes to the mid's positive terminal should be swapped to the mid's negative terminal and vice versa.
Geddit now?
A note-
The physical layout as you have illustrated does not show the single shunting cap across the midrange as the schematic shows. I would definitely make sure that is as it should be.
Otherwise, agreed with all of the above.
Later,
Wolf
The physical layout as you have illustrated does not show the single shunting cap across the midrange as the schematic shows. I would definitely make sure that is as it should be.
Otherwise, agreed with all of the above.
Later,
Wolf
Suggest that you post a photo of the components in place but before soldering.
That will make corrections much easier and less prone to damage to the parts.
That will make corrections much easier and less prone to damage to the parts.
That's certainly worth checking!
Wolf is referring to the 10uF capacitor which must stretch all the way across between the positive line and the negative line.