Yes, either it annoyed by no clearance, or it has a loose winding (or both problems).
Those need rubber mats on top and bottom and must be kept away from copper wire and kept away from active devices and kept away from circuit boards, all of which have copper.
Here's a wacky idea: Turn it upside down. If the loose winding *was* on top, the rubber mat on bottom might squeeze it into silence. Probably not, but that doesn't cost anything (except possibly a scrap of old inner tube). Just get the rubber mat big enough to keep the wires away from the bottom of the enclosure. Also, because you have enough space, try mounting the transformer at least an inch (bit over 2cm) away from everything else.
It is possible to soak a rattly transformer in lacquer or polyurethane to fill the loose space up, thereby stopping the rattles. Or, it is possible to rewind the thing, brush painting on a thin layer of lacquer or poly in-between wraps (which is an epic sticky mess but not loose).
Those need rubber mats on top and bottom and must be kept away from copper wire and kept away from active devices and kept away from circuit boards, all of which have copper.
Here's a wacky idea: Turn it upside down. If the loose winding *was* on top, the rubber mat on bottom might squeeze it into silence. Probably not, but that doesn't cost anything (except possibly a scrap of old inner tube). Just get the rubber mat big enough to keep the wires away from the bottom of the enclosure. Also, because you have enough space, try mounting the transformer at least an inch (bit over 2cm) away from everything else.
It is possible to soak a rattly transformer in lacquer or polyurethane to fill the loose space up, thereby stopping the rattles. Or, it is possible to rewind the thing, brush painting on a thin layer of lacquer or poly in-between wraps (which is an epic sticky mess but not loose).
I've never seen unmistakably clear text+photographic documentation on such a simple circuit; however, this video comes close. Maybe it will help. Build Your Own Current Limiter for Protection when Repairing and Testing Electronic Equipment - YouTube
*I actually use a 40W bulb, normally. It is incandescent and clear oven bulbs "rough use bulbs" are still available. Also a more descriptive name is "incandescent current limiter test jig"
*I actually use a 40W bulb, normally. It is incandescent and clear oven bulbs "rough use bulbs" are still available. Also a more descriptive name is "incandescent current limiter test jig"
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these are the T1A fuses I used (but they kept blowing up).. Now I am using 2.5A of the same fuse:
1A T1A 1000mA Slow Blow Anti Surge Fuse 20mm 10 pack | eBay
1A T1A 1000mA Slow Blow Anti Surge Fuse 20mm 10 pack | eBay
Also, the full thiele-small output pieces could result in a better tone. Practically, that's what they're for. Also, they help prevent amplifier freakout (aka amplifiers have a better tone when not bonkers). Its kind of terrible to promote these parts for their function which is somewhat useful rather than their benefit which is lovely sounding.
Yet another case of very simple beneficial circuit that has gone far too long without clear cut documentation.
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Functionally speaking, operational amplifiers of every size, including the power-op-amp (chip amp) are unfortunately prone to negative output impedance, which is practically the worst sound ever, and a series element at output is the fix, beneficially speaking, in order to guarantee a positive output that doesn't suck. The Thiele-Small series element is inductor parallel to resistor, for low loss, yet still existing series element. And/Or parallel amplifiers have ballast resistors for series element, which also works fairly well. Low parts count amplifiers such as audiosector.com/chipamp.com omit the series element and that problem is not optimal.
Yet another case of very simple beneficial circuit that has gone far too long without clear cut documentation.
Edit:
Functionally speaking, operational amplifiers of every size, including the power-op-amp (chip amp) are unfortunately prone to negative output impedance, which is practically the worst sound ever, and a series element at output is the fix, beneficially speaking, in order to guarantee a positive output that doesn't suck. The Thiele-Small series element is inductor parallel to resistor, for low loss, yet still existing series element. And/Or parallel amplifiers have ballast resistors for series element, which also works fairly well. Low parts count amplifiers such as audiosector.com/chipamp.com omit the series element and that problem is not optimal.
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