I've been getting good on my bass and it's time for me to upgrade from ghetto rigging my home theater as an amp to a REAL amp. Now i was gonna get a Kustom 310C bass combo but they got discontinued just as i almost had them bought. I see no point in spending 100+ easy on some crappy amp that you can't get any power from and the only amp combo that interest me are way over budget. So i"m gonna DIY the bass amp. I have myself a set up sketched already.It'll be a fullstack. Running a 4*12 top half using eminence neo basslite 12's and for reinforcement I'm running a monster 18" Mj-18 ( because of it's attractive price an it won't need to get too low in the sound spectrum and fits the glove perfectly ), these will be pushed by a behringer europower 2500 . I know it's not a real professional set up but I only want a combination of power and tone i don't really care too much about how much rep and the quality as much as my main concerns b/c quality costs out the a** and this is what I can afford to meet thse goals. Anyways, I can bridge the amp to 4 ohms and wire the 4*12 in two sets in parallel wired together in series resulting in 8 ohms which will then be wired in parallel with the sub to get an overall 4 ohms. then only thing is I need some up top sound and therefore i need to add a tweeter/horn but how do i do that with out screwing up the wiring and/or paying a sh**load of cash for x over ?
I probably know how too just most likely forgot
I probably know how too just most likely forgot
Sorry, I thought we went through this already. 
It doesn't work like that, impedance is frequency dependent. You can't just parallel four 12" woofers and an 18 woofer and expect anything good to happen. Furthermore, you can't just wire a horn to all of that and somehow avoid paying for a crossover.
You want a big bass amp but can't afford one? Buy used.
You really want to build a PA speaker? Follow an established design and build it as described.
It doesn't work like that, impedance is frequency dependent. You can't just parallel four 12" woofers and an 18 woofer and expect anything good to happen. Furthermore, you can't just wire a horn to all of that and somehow avoid paying for a crossover.
You want a big bass amp but can't afford one? Buy used.
You really want to build a PA speaker? Follow an established design and build it as described.
Get a Bass Pod from Line 6 to give the effects and sound you want.
Now,
Get an 'EMINENCE BETA-12CX 12" COAXIAL DRIVER' and put it in an 80 liter sealed box. Then find a couple of nice sub bass drivers (Delta Pro 15?) and put them in ported boxes. If you drive them from a separate amp you can use an active crossover (Behringer most simple model) to add a first order low-pass at about 80Hz which will merge nicely in to the sealed 12" coaxial for mid-bass and highs.
Plug pod in to the crossover and that in to the amps.
Now,
Get an 'EMINENCE BETA-12CX 12" COAXIAL DRIVER' and put it in an 80 liter sealed box. Then find a couple of nice sub bass drivers (Delta Pro 15?) and put them in ported boxes. If you drive them from a separate amp you can use an active crossover (Behringer most simple model) to add a first order low-pass at about 80Hz which will merge nicely in to the sealed 12" coaxial for mid-bass and highs.
Plug pod in to the crossover and that in to the amps.
o yeh! sorry joe i havent been up to anything on building speakers lately i remember now lol yes i know the impedance changes according to box volume, frequency, tuning etc. ok so i guess the question is who's willing to help me design a x over right? and I'll x over the sub too only seperatly from the 4*12
joe carrow said:Sorry, I thought we went through this already.
....You can't just parallel four 12" woofers and an 18 woofer and expect anything good to happen......
Furthermore, you can't just wire a horn to all of that and somehow avoid paying for a crossover.....
You want a big bass amp but can't afford one? Buy used.
You really want to build a PA speaker? Follow an established design and build it as described.
hmmm......
You don't know much about speakers for live bass guitar.
An 8 ohm 18" + a series/parallel 8 ohm 4 x12 will be fine in they match.
( I have a 1x15 + 4x10, the drivers do need to suit each other)
And you do simply slap on a tweeter with filter ( + vol if needed).
You do want to be able to run the cabinets seperately.
So appropriate driver choices is the major design issue.
see here :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98353
🙂/sreten.
I confess, I've never designed a musical instrument speaker before. Still, my friend who plays bass better than anyone I know expressed a preference for PA-like bass amps, and seemed to enjoy playing through a real PA with fairly flat response and low distortion.
So, sorry I get hung up on *reducing* distortion. It seemed counterintuitive to me that you'd skip the crossover and let the drivers distort into the 100s of percent.
So, sorry I get hung up on *reducing* distortion. It seemed counterintuitive to me that you'd skip the crossover and let the drivers distort into the 100s of percent.
joe carrow said:
Thats how I prefer to play bass. I'd rather add the distortion before the amps and speakers so I have total control over it. Hence I say get a bass pod from Line 6.
The chances of getting a musical-happens to sound great-distorted combination of drivers and random crossovers is pretty low… I mean its art! If you are not an expert in this type of thing I’d say its better to build a good PA speaker and use pre-distortion.
Hmmm.....
You obviously put a crossover on the tweeter.
Not crossing over drivers does not cause 100s of percent distortion.
/sreten.
You obviously put a crossover on the tweeter.
Not crossing over drivers does not cause 100s of percent distortion.
/sreten.
Hi guys,joe carrow said:
Joe, sound and noise seem to be the same for some people.
I wonder how to get better noise... maybe I'm getting older...
umm everybody is kinda right. Most compression drivers used for this purpose would only have a power handeling in the 15/ 30 watt range without a x/over. They can be far far more efficient (103-110 db @ 1w ) and a l pad is needed to make them match.
Easy option though is piezo drivers which do not require a x/over and have matched efficiency of a typical large woofer (93db). I have seen multiple units used to boost efficiency.
.
piezo options
ok so ill cross a tweeter over but its amazingly expensive to make a low pass x over around 5 kHz ( which is where the 12 inchers roll off ) that can handle 1200 + watts @ 4 ohms, even 2kHz is alot of mula
Well you want a high-pass for the tweeter for sure! If you just roll the tweeter in where the bass drivers naturally roll-off all you need is a high voltage capacitor. You are probably looking at about £10 a cap.
If you don't know - you should not be doing it. You have been given links to read and if you don't understand them then you should probably go read some more basic physics text books and study the electronics parts. I have to guess at this point you are someone’s idea of a wind-up.
Never-the-less, here is how you wire a capacitor as a high-pass filter (high-pass = high frequencies pass).
The value of the capacitor (in micro farads or 'uF' usually) will need to be determined from the impedance plot of the tweeter and the frequency you want the filter to work at.
Never-the-less, here is how you wire a capacitor as a high-pass filter (high-pass = high frequencies pass).
The value of the capacitor (in micro farads or 'uF' usually) will need to be determined from the impedance plot of the tweeter and the frequency you want the filter to work at.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
punkrokr1701 said:
Hmmm........
I'm not going to go there......
Fairly obvious your grasp of engineering is still very minimal.
I presume you mean a high pass and simply the above is wrong.
🙂/sreten.
yeh i meant high pass and i know this stuff like the back of my hand i dont whats been goin on lately, i just havent been in the loop at all with all the stuff ive been doing as far as school goes, lol damn I knew that well thanx for the refreshment guys, lol
You should probably build a few more cheap kit speakers before embarking on something as risky as a high-powered and costly bass rig.
Mixing it up when you're typing is one thing, but mixing it up with the soldering iron is something very different. I know first hand- last weekend I blew up a couple of components because I got the polarity wrong. It was loud and smoky, and kind of embarrassing. I'm glad to say that the total value of the smoked components was less than a dollar- but it was a lesson learned nonetheless. Next time I'll be a little more careful to label things properly and verify everything before powering things up. I won't be doing it because somebody told me to, I'll be doing it because I remember what it felt like to experience the noise and smoke and know that it was because I did something stupid.
Mixing it up when you're typing is one thing, but mixing it up with the soldering iron is something very different. I know first hand- last weekend I blew up a couple of components because I got the polarity wrong. It was loud and smoky, and kind of embarrassing. I'm glad to say that the total value of the smoked components was less than a dollar- but it was a lesson learned nonetheless. Next time I'll be a little more careful to label things properly and verify everything before powering things up. I won't be doing it because somebody told me to, I'll be doing it because I remember what it felt like to experience the noise and smoke and know that it was because I did something stupid.
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